epic surfing

While most of the mainland and Europe are freezing, the weather in Hawaii has been absolutely gorgeous.

I have not see a single cloud for at least 4 days and even though that makes the early morning temperatures kinda chilly, the water is still warm. Plus, thanks to the temperature difference, going surfing at dawn feels like jumping in a hot tub...
On top of the beautiful sunny weather, as forecasted the wind has shut down and a north swell arrived and that made for some glassy epic surfing.

Yesterday I stopped by Hookipa at 6.30 and it looked as good as it gets. Thinking that it would get crowded, I surfed another spot. I was pretty much alone, but the waves weren't nearly as good.
It was a rare case in which my very personal rule "better alone on a shitty wave than with a lot of people on a good wave" did not apply.

When I went back after my session to snap a few shots before going to work, Middles was just freaking perfect. The size of the waves kept most of the usual mellow Middles crowd off the water and it wasn't even that crowded.
Oh well...




Nobody on the left in the back (yet). Could have been me...


Mean turn.


Once again, one goes left another one goes right.


Could have been a little more specific: dog.


This one was taken at The point. More people and higher level.


In my sunset session the waves were good but my surfing sucked. It's ok, it was still nice to be out. At one point I knew all the 20 people sitting around me. It was like being at a party or something... at least the chatting was epic!

Today more of the same, with even bigger waves. I'm having a slow start (when I'm off work I get lazy) and at 7.40 I'm still home. In 5 minutes the third Triple Crown contest will start: the prestigious Pipeline Masters.
I will miss it because I'm going surfing, while you guys stuck in offices can watch it instead. See how lucky you are? There's always something positive in everything...
Hey, I'm just trying!

ALOOO-HA!