Thursday, September 30, 2021

Thursday 9 30 21 morning call

Hookipa yesterday morning.

6am Surfline significant buoy readings and discussion.
South shore
Barbers
0.9ft @ 18s from 197° (SSW)
1.1ft @ 13s from 176° (S)

Slivers of 18 and 13s southerly energy at Barbers. Check the Lahaina webcam if interested, for size, conditions and consistency.


North shore
N
3.9ft @ 10s from 33° (NE)

Waimea
2.7ft @ 11s from 10° (N)

Kaneohe Bay
4ft @ 8s from 52° (ENE)

Small 10-11s NNE energy is at the buoys. Home guess for Hookipa is around chest to head high.

Forecast of Pauwela from this PACIOOS page.


Wind map at noon. The other ones can be found here (click on animation of the 10 meter column).



Fetches map
(circles legend: red: direct aim, blue: angular spreading, black: blocked, yellow: possibly over the ice sheet) from Windy.
North Pacific
(about 4 days travel time from the NW corner of the North Pacific):



South Pacific
(about 7 days travel time from east/west of New Zealand):



Morning sky.


Wednesday, September 29, 2021

7am hookipa has chest to head high waves with the usual bit of wind and texture. 
5.2

Wednesday 9 29 21 morning call

Hookipa yesterday morning.


I instead did some freestyle winging in the harbor first and then joined Jeremy Riggs and a group of paddlers for the weekly flat water take-off practice: 9am Tuesdays if you're interested. Here's Randy in a very good attempt (photo by Tomoko, who is the most successful of the students). The afternoon wing downwinder (should start calling them downwingers) was delightful as usual.

4am Surfline significant buoy readings and discussion.
South shore
Barbers

2.2ft @ 8s from 168° (SSE)
1ft @ 15s from 177° (S)

One foot 15s from an unknown southerly source would be lot better than nothing (if it's true!), check the Lahaina webcam if interested, for size, conditions and consistency. Unfortunately, there's not much at all.


North shore
N
4.2ft @ 10s from 30° (NNE)

Waimea
2.3ft @ 10s from 351° (N)

Kaneohe Bay
5.2ft @ 7s from 64° (ENE)

Not much to talk about other than those promising 4ft 10s at the N buoy. Based on that and on the Waimea reading, home guess for Hookipa is for around chest high.

Forecast of Pauwela from this PACIOOS page.




Wind map at noon. The other ones can be found here (click on animation of the 10 meter column).



Fetches map
(circles legend: red: direct aim, blue: angular spreading, black: blocked, yellow: possibly over the ice sheet) from Windy.
North Pacific
(about 4 days travel time from the NW corner of the North Pacific):



South Pacific
(about 7 days travel time from east/west of New Zealand):



Morning sky.


Tuesday, September 28, 2021

7.15am hookipa has chest high waves, some wind and texture. 
3 2

Tuesday 9 28 21 morning call

Hookipa yesterday morning.



4-5am Surfline significant buoy readings and discussion.
South shore
Barbers
1.7ft @ 13s from 184° (S)

Southerly energy at Barbers persists. Check the Lahaina webcam if interested, for size, conditions and consistency.


North shore
Hanalei
2.6ft @ 9s from 5° (N)

Waimea
2.2ft @ 9s from 351° (N)

Kaneohe Bay
4.6ft @ 6s from 55° (ENE)

Small 9s northerly energy and 6s windswell should give Hookipa waves in the chest high range.
There should be a bump in the afternoon (you can see it in the PACIOOS forecast below). Here's Pat Caldwell description of the fetch evolution:
A weak, low-pressure system (1000 mb) tracked east along 45N from the Date Line 9/24 with near gales aimed highest NE of Hawaii. As it moved east of the Hawaii longitude 9/25 (~160W), it intensified with more north to south aim, but too late for Hawaii surf fortune. A short-lived, below-average event is due Tuesday morning from 325-340 degrees, peaking late Tuesday, and dropping to seasonal dregs on Wednesday from 330-360 degrees.

Below are the maps of Sept 24 through 26 that will help follow.


Forecast of Pauwela from this PACIOOS page.

Wind map at noon. The other ones can be found here (click on animation of the 10 meter column).



Fetches map
(circles legend: red: direct aim, blue: angular spreading, black: blocked, yellow: possibly over the ice sheet) from Windy.
North Pacific
(about 4 days travel time from the NW corner of the North Pacific):



South Pacific
(about 7 days travel time from east/west of New Zealand):



Morning sky.


Monday, September 27, 2021

6.45am has inconsistent leftover sets in the chest high range. High tide and a bit of wind. 
4

Monday 9 27 21 morning call

No photos from yesterday. Next photo of my trip is from lake Sammamish in Seattle, my first time wake surfing and foiling. That is a 12 liters kiteboard, smallest board I've ever foiled on, and it had a remarkably direct feeling of connection to the foil.


4am Surfline significant buoy readings and discussion.
South shore
Barbers
2.3ft @ 13s from 183° (S)

I went south yesterday and foiled on waist to occasionally chest high waves. Today is a lot smaller, but there's still gems like this empty one in the semi-dark. Check the Lahaina webcam if interested, for size, conditions and consistency.



North shore
Hanalei

2.5ft @ 9s from 345° (NNW)
2.2ft @ 11s from 337° (NNW)

Waimea
3ft @ 11s from 334° (NNW)

Kaneohe Bay

3.5ft @ 6s from 70° (ENE)
3.3ft @ 8s from 64° (ENE)

NW swell trickling down and now coming from the NNW. Home guess for Hookipa is around chest to head high.

Forecast of Pauwela from this PACIOOS page.



Wind map at noon. The other ones can be found here (click on animation of the 10 meter column).



Fetches map
(circles legend: red: direct aim, blue: angular spreading, black: blocked, yellow: possibly over the ice sheet) from Windy.
North Pacific
(about 4 days travel time from the NW corner of the North Pacific):



South Pacific
(about 7 days travel time from east/west of New Zealand):



Morning sky.


Sunday, September 26, 2021

Sunday 9 26 21 morning call

Hookipa yesterday morning.


Hookipa in the afternoon. Photo by Jimmie Hepp from this album.


Hookipa in the evening.

Just watched this and went: Oh no... more money to be spent ahead?
4/5am Surfline significant buoy readings and discussion.
South shore
Barbers
2.2ft @ 15s from 179° (S)

NW energy went down and it allows the southerly one to show again at Barbers. It's probably the angular spreading from those fetches I posted yesterday. This is a beautiful wave, but there's very few of them. Check the Lahaina webcam if interested, for size, conditions and consistency.



North shore
N
5.1ft @ 12s from 328° (NW)

Hanalei
4.4ft @ 11s from 323° (NW)

Waimea
3.5ft @ 11s from 331° (NNW)

Kaneohe Bay
5.3ft @ 8s from 67° (ENE)

NW swell down to 11s, but still up at the upstream buoys. Home guess for Hookipa is around head to head and a third high.

Forecast of Pauwela from this PACIOOS page.


Wind map at noon. The other ones can be found here (click on animation of the 10 meter column).



Fetches map
(circles legend: red: direct aim, blue: angular spreading, black: blocked, yellow: possibly over the ice sheet) from Windy.
North Pacific
(about 4 days travel time from the NW corner of the North Pacific):



South Pacific
(about 7 days travel time from east/west of New Zealand):



Morning sky.


Saturday, September 25, 2021

6am hookipa is head and a half to occasionally double. The usual bumps/ ribs.
5

Saturday 9 25 21 morning call

Hookipa yesterday morning.


Hookipa yesterday afternoon. Photo by Jimme Hepp from this album.

The swell was more west than ideal, but big enough to provide Honolua Bay with some sets. Brother Mau was on it.

4am Surfline significant buoy readings and discussion.
South shore
No southerly energy at Barbers, but that one gets plenty wrap from the NW, so we don't really know. There shouldn't be much other than some angular spreading from a massive swell that was aimed at South America. Below are the fetches of Sept 18 through 20 that show the very strong fetch.


The only way to find out what's in the water is to check the Lahaina webcam for size, conditions and consistency.

North shore
NW101
4.9ft @ 13s from 340° (NNW)

Hanalei
8ft @ 13s from 317° (NW)

Waimea
3.7ft @ 14s from 323° (NW)


Kaneohe Bay
3.5ft @ 8s from 71° (ENE)

I noticed how Waimea was half the size of Hanalei and wondered why. Pat Caldwell did the same:
Interesting the much lower (almost a factor of 2) of the PacIOOS/CDIP Waimea, Oahu buoy compared to Hanalei. Judging by Sunset Beach cams midday 9/24– clearly 8 occn 10 Hs– bruisers. So, the surf seems much bigger than one would calculate from the buoy readings (6ish Hs). Either the buoy has a bias, or some heavy surfers paddled out and sat on the buoy so know one would know how good it is. Mysteries abound.

The lack of Pauwela and the strange behavior of Waimea make the home guess for Hookipa extremely difficult. The swell peaked, but it should still be around head and a half.

Forecast of Pauwela from this PACIOOS page.



Wind map at noon. The other ones can be found here (click on animation of the 10 meter column).



Fetches map
(circles legend: red: direct aim, blue: angular spreading, black: blocked, yellow: possibly over the ice sheet) from Windy.
North Pacific
(about 4 days travel time from the NW corner of the North Pacific):



South Pacific
(about 7 days travel time from east/west of New Zealand):



Morning sky.


Friday, September 24, 2021

6.15am hookipa already has head and a half plus sets. Some texture/bump. 
5

Friday 9 24 21 morning call

 Hookipa yesterday morning.


Hookipa yesterday afternoon.

Just found out that Ty Simpson-Kane is my neighbor and that he rips with the wing too.

4am Surfline significant buoy readings and discussion.
South shore
Barbers
2.1ft @ 14s from 186° (S)

Check the Lahaina webcam if interested, for size, conditions and consistency.

North shore
NW101
8.3ft @ 16s from 344° (NNW)

Hanalei
8.7ft @ 17s from 327° (NW)

Waimea

3ft @ 17s from 322° (NW)
1.1ft @ 11s from 344° (NNW)

Kaneohe Bay
3.8ft @ 8s from 70° (ENE)

New large long period NW swell will be on the rise all day. Let's see how Pat Caldwell described the evolution of the fetch:
A low pressure deepened rapidly Monday into Tuesday 9/20-21 near 45N, 175E, or about 2300 nm away from Hawaii. The low tracked steadily east, crossing the Date Line 9/21 and reaching due north of Hawaii 9/22.
The direct aim of seas at Hawaii had seas within 15-20 feet with the head of the fetch about 1300 nm away Wednesday morning 9/22. This places the peak of the event Friday evening from 320-330 degrees. Surf should steadily build Friday morning above the September average as the angular spreading of the longer-period swell fills in locally
.

Below are the maps of Sept 20 through 23 that will help follow.


Below are the graphs of NW and Hanalei together with the Surfline forecast. As you can see, this is going to be a pretty solid swell, much bigger than the previous one. The red dotted line is my guess of the local rise. Early morning home guess for Hookipa is shoulder to head and a third high building to double overhead plus throughout the day. Based on the impressive readings of the upstream buoys, the chances that even Jaws will break are pretty high, imo. 



Forecast of Pauwela from this PACIOOS page.


Wind map at noon. The other ones can be found here (click on animation of the 10 meter column).



Fetches map
(circles legend: red: direct aim, blue: angular spreading, black: blocked, yellow: possibly over the ice sheet) from Windy.
North Pacific
(about 4 days travel time from the NW corner of the North Pacific):



South Pacific
(about 7 days travel time from east/west of New Zealand):



Morning sky.