Wednesday, December 11, 2019

Wednesday 12 11 19 morning call

Yesterday I did: longboard surfing, SUP foiling, a windfoil lesson and a wave windfoiling session. Daniel Silvagni did an amazing job repairing the Stewart I snapped in two pieces a month ago. From now on, I'm gonna call him El Mago.

NW swell was pretty solid at Hookipa. This is my pick of Jimmie Hepp's  album.

This is Matias again in a bottom to top turn combo at sunset.

4am significant buoy readings and discussion
South shore
No southerly energy at the buoys, but it could be masked by the NW wrap. No point at reporting those readings either, as the wrap at Lanai will be completely different from what eventually gets on Maui's south shore (not much, imo). The only way to find out what's in the water is to check the Lahaina webcam.

North shore
10.4ft @ 14s from 343° (NNW)

7.9ft @ 15s from 334° (NNW)
3.2ft @ 10s from 329° (NW)

7.4ft @ 15s from 328° (NW)
5.7ft @ 13s from 327° (NW)

Solid continuous uninterrupted NW energy on tap, as the graph of the NW buoy shows: 10 feet average with little ups and dows. The XL swell is not hitting yet (at least it's not reported), that's good news for the Jaws contest that has been called on for Thursday. Pauwela shows 7.4ft 15s, Hookipa too big for most surfers, choose other spots, unless you can handle double overhead plus.

Wind map at noon

Kahului Tides
High Tide     High Tide     Low Tide     Low Tide       Sunrise   Sunset
2:30a  +2.6   1:09p  +1.5   8:47a  +0.9   7:42p  -0.5    6:54a   5:48p    

North Pacific has a NW fetch. Feels like there's been a fetch in that position for the last 5 days in a row...

Nothing from the south.

Morning sky.

Tuesday, December 10, 2019

Tuesday 12 10 19 morning call

Excellent waves yesterday morning at Hookipa. This one by Matias was the one that made me wax my board.

My turn to be on a beauty. It was glassy until around 9ish, then the wind went from 0 to 15 in 5 minutes.

This is my pick of Jimmie Hepp's  album of the windsurfing action.

4am significant buoy readings and discussion
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, but they're feeling a bit of NW wrap, so it could be there but masked. Below are the maps of Dec 3,4 and 5, which show those couple of fetches I mentioned back then. Check the Lahaina webcam to see if there's something.

North shore
8.7ft @ 14s from 325° (NW)
3.6ft @ 10s from 345° (NNW)

6ft @ 14s from 320° (NW)
3.6ft @ 11s from 329° (NW)
3.2ft @ 9s from 340° (NNW)

7.4ft @ 14s from 325° (NW)
2.9ft @ 10s from 345° (NNW)

NW swell filled in nicely, let's see how Pat Caldwell described the evolution of the fetches:
The first low pressure system tracked east from the Kuril Islands 12/4 with a ribbon of gales about 1800 nm out from Hawaii on the 310 degree great circle band by 12/6. The system weakened as it moved east of the Date Line 12/7. Addition short- to moderate- period swell was generated from marginal gales about 1000 nm N to NNW of Hawaii 12/7.
This event is predicted to peak overnight (Monday) above average and decline Tuesday as a new event arrives.
The next low pressure tracked eastward further north along 50N starting 12/6 reaching the Date Line late 12/7. Severe gales were the dominant wind with seas above 30 ft beyond 1500 nm away early 12/8 over the 315-335 degree band. This event should build locally mid Tuesday centered near 325 degrees, peak late Tuesday, then slow drop on Wednesday as yet a bigger episode fills in.

Below are the maps of Dec 4 through 8 which will help follow.

Below are the graphs of NW and Pauwela, together with yesterday's Surfline forecast. As you can see, the NW buoy peaked yesterday morning and then it had another bump in the evening. With a delay of about 18 hours, that should happen also today. In other words, plenty NW energy on tap all day on the north shore. Hookipa should be pretty solid in the morning with heights up to double overhead. Pipe contest on for sure.

Wind map at noon. There should be no wind until 10-11am.
Kahului Tides
High Tide     High Tide     Low Tide     Low Tide       Sunrise   Sunset
1:56a  +2.5  12:38p  +1.6   8:05a  +0.9   7:12p  -0.4    6:53a   5:47p    

North Pacific's strong NW fetch moved east and now is only partially aimed towards us (mostly to our east).

Nothing from the south.

Morning sky.

Monday, December 09, 2019

7.30am hookipa is head to occasionally head and a half and very clean. A little inconsistent. 

Monday 12 9 19 morning call

Excellent waves all day yesterday, everywhere on the island that likes a NNE direction. This is the harbor Jetty where an epic HSA contest was held.

John Patao posted some photos of the incredible barrels that were on offer.

Lahaina was getting plenty energy from the wrap, this is an image in the late morning. Breakwall had overhead sets.

The Hi-Tech Christmas party is always a hoot, particularly the Secret Santa game. In the spirit of the game, there are tons of great gifts (that can be stolen), but some bad ones too.
Here's the speech I gave when it was my turn:
Before coming here I quickly checked out the waves at Hookipa. I saw a set at The Point that was a 10. And I got the feeling that, although smaller, also tomorrow morning could be really good.
That means that I'd like to surf.
That means that I'd like to go to sleep early.
That means that I'll steal the worse present that was given out so far, so that I can leave now!

Here's the HOLE-IN-ONE toilet golf game I ended up with. I love multitasking.

4am significant buoy readings and discussion
South shore
1.3ft @ 14s from 218° (SW)

Not sure if that is a wrap of some sort or a proper SW, what counts is that the Lahaina webcam shows inconsistent little sets. Check it out yourself if interested.

North shore
6.5ft @ 14s from 332° (NNW)

3.5ft @ 15s from 319° (NW)
1.8ft @ 11s from 24° (NNE)
1.1ft @ 9s from 33° (NE)

3.4ft @ 14s from 352° (N)
2.3ft @ 13s from 17° (NNE)
1.4ft @ 10s from 24° (NNE)
New NW swell on the rise all day, while the old NNE tapers down. Below are the graphs of NW and Pauwela together with the Surfline forecast. Tough call on the size (but most definitely surfable) from home, I'll report later from the beach.

Wind map at noon

Kahului Tides
High Tide     High Tide     Low Tide     Low Tide       Sunrise   Sunset
 1:23a  +2.3  12:08p  +1.6   7:24a  +1.0   6:43p  -0.2    6:53a   5:47p    

North Pacific has a strong and long and perfectly oriented towards us fetch that has High Surf Warning levels written all over. 15ft 16s from 326 predicted by Surfline on Thursday. Too big for Pipe, are they going to run the Eddie or Jaws?

Nothing from the south.

Morning sky.

Sunday, December 08, 2019

Sunday 12 8 19 morning call

Most of the north shore was too big to be surfed by most yesterday. Albee Layer challenged this very slabby wave instead.

Later on the same wave. That was a closeout barrel.

He came out of this smaller one instead.
The waiting period of the Pipe Masters starts today (8-20 Dec). I'm pretty sure they won't start today (tons of better NW swells in the forecast). Here's a great article about the mechanics of Pipe.
This is Barren Mamiya in a photo by Liquid Barrel. How must an elevator drop like that feel?

4am significant buoy readings and discussion
South shore
0.9ft @ 12s from 213° (SW)
0.8ft @ 15s from 229° (SW)

Slivers of southerly energy at Barbers, but most of the energy (at least in the Lahaina area) will probably still come from the northerly wrap (like yesterday). Check the Lahaina webcam if interested.

North shore
8ft @ 15s from 50° (NE)

7.7ft @ 14s from 19° (NNE)
2.8ft @ 13s from 16° (NNE)
1.4ft @ 9s from 18° (NNE)
Below is Pauwela's graph showing that the NNE swell peaked around noon yesterday at 10ft 15s. This is a rare reading, as NNE swell don't usually get that big (there's less fetch estate there compared to the NW). The harbor was firing (pretty much the only place where to surf on the north shore) and obviously Honolua too. Today the swell is on the slow decline, but the energy out there should still be pretty solid. Hookipa probably still well overhead.

Wind map at noon. One of the "purplest" noon maps I can remember. Love those kind of days, unfortunately I'll be working all day, but you guys enjoy.
Kahului Tides
High Tide     High Tide     Low Tide     Low Tide       Sunrise   Sunset
12:52a  +2.0  11:38a  +1.7   6:40a  +1.0   6:16p   0.0    6:52a   5:47p    

North Pacific has a new NW fetch north of Japan. Yesterday's strong NW fetch (8ft 14s from 320 on Tuesday) is now aiming east of us, but we should still get some angular spreading.

The fetch in the Tasman Sea is now weak enough not to deserve a red circle.

Morning sky. Gonna be another balmy one.

Saturday, December 07, 2019

Friday 12 7 19 morning call

Despite the amount of ripping kids training at Hrbor Jetty's for the HSA contest...

...the move of the day was made by this guy standing up on his bodyboard, putting it on the rail and throwing a 360 spin. Wait, he's got the leash on his ankle, maybe it wasn't a bodyboard. Maybe it's one of those short foamy board that are now invading the market and which I strongly refuse to even touch at the shop. "Get a real board!", is what I say to customers interested in them, before I hand them over to a less biased coworker.

The N swell didn't quite grow as much as I was expecting based on the N buoy reading (another sign of the swell missing us to our east), but there were some decent size waves, like this one pictured in this photo out of Jimmie Hepp's album of the windsurfing action at Hookipa.

4am significant buoy readings and discussion
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, check the Lahaina webcam to see if there's any NNE wrap getting in there.

North shore
9.5ft @ 16s from 21° (NNE)
5.3ft @ 10s from 353° (N)

4.9ft @ 9s from 6° (N)
4.3ft @ 12s from 356° (N)
3.1ft @ 15s from 28° (NNE)

5.9ft @ 15s from 19° (NNE)
4.1ft @ 10s from 12° (NNE)
2.8ft @ 12s from 356° (N)
2.3ft @ 6s from 30° (NNE)
Below is the (confusing) graph of Pauwela together with the Surfline forecast. On the first, I circled in black yesterday's N swell and in red today's NNE one and on the second I put arrows of the same colors on the forecast, so you can compare the two. In the end, it seems that both swells arrived half a day earlier than predicted by the Surfline's WW3 version, which is a trend I've observed quite often.
Today we have about 3ft 12s from the declining N swell (together with other shorter periods energies), but most importantly 6ft 15 from around 20 degrees which, judging from the N buoy reading (almost 10ft 16s!) should even increase. Hookipa probably too big for most, but with some possible epic rights at The Point. Harbor Jetty's will be pumping for the HSA contest, even though it now seems that it's gonna be a one day contest on Sunday with the division order below.

Wind map at noon

Kahului Tides
High Tide     High Tide     Low Tide     Low Tide       Sunrise   Sunset
12:22a  +1.8  11:06a  +1.7   5:50a  +1.0   5:52p  +0.1    6:52a   5:46p    

North Pacific has a strong fetch in the NW corner. 8ft 14s from 320 predicted by Surfline on Tuesday (with another bigger one right after). Honolua was a tough job for the contest director (only two contestable days in the waiting period), Pipeline will be a breeze, with plenty days to pick from.

The fetch in the Tasman Sea is still there (although a bit weaker) for the delight of the off season Fiji surfers.

Morning sky. Clouds have moved on to our east.

Friday, December 06, 2019

7am hookipa is head to occasionally head and a half. Relatively clean.

Friday 12 6 19 morning call

Ben Thouard posted this photo calling it one of his best selling pictures. No wonder.

4am significant buoy readings and discussion.
South shore
1.5ft @ 11s from 181° (S)

Tiny bit of southerly energy at Lanai, please check the Lahaina webcam if interested, it might easily be flat to start with, until a possible N wrap will fill in in the second part of the day.

North shore
4.5ft @ 11s from 6° (N)

8ft @ 13s from 357° (N)
6.3ft @ 10s from 5° (N)

5.2ft @ 8s from 10° (N)
2.6ft @ 14s from 351° (N)
2.1ft @ 11s from 12° (NNE)

4.1ft @ 8s from 13° (NNE)
2.5ft @ 11s from 13° (NNE)
2.1ft @ 15s from 349° (NNW)
New northerly swell on the rise all day, let's see how Pat Cladwell describes the evolution of the fetch:
A low pressure pattern had a second wind of energy this week and
is expected to produce overlapping events from N and NNE,
respectively 12/6-9.

The first phase had the low intensifying near the Aleutians on the
Date Line 12/2 with a SE track. Gales over the 355-010 degree band
aimed highest just east of Hawaii 12/2 into early 12/4 with the
head of the fetch about 1200 nm away.

Surf is expected to build above the north shore seasonal average
on Friday with a peak late in the day. The event should drop below
average on Saturday as the next event arrives.

The second event occurred as the aforementioned low became
occluded near 43N, 145W to the NNE of Hawaii early 12/4. The low
center slowly shifted ESE into 12/5. ASCAT satellite swaths showed
severe gale to storm force winds mostly north to south on the W to
NW side of the low over a wide area aimed highest east of Hawaii
though close enough for angular spreading. A separate fetch of
gales aimed directly at Hawaii on the N to NE side of the low.
Models show the low slowly easing in ocean surface winds toward
marginal gales into Friday, then fading out Saturday.

Long-period forerunners are due locally early Saturday from
000-030 degrees. It should return surf above average mid day, peak
overnight Saturday night, then slowly drop Sunday. Heights should
fall to small levels on Monday from the same direction.

Below is the maps of Dec 3, 4 and 5 that will help follow. As you can see, the angular spreading energy is going to be big part of this swell, and that's always tricky to forecast in size.

Because of the position of the fetch and the orientation of the winds, it's no surprise that the N buoy is sensing more energy than the NW ones. Below are the graphs of N (swell line in the red circle) and Pauwela, together with the Surfline offshore swell forecast. It seems that in this case the timing of the forecast is pretty accurate, so I drew a red dotted line on Pauwela according to that: on the rise all day, probably peaking during the night.

The swell will start around 350 and then clock around more to the east, as explained by uncle Pat. Great unblocked direction for Honolua and the whole west side, the north shore will top the heights as usual, with double overhead plus at sunset. Sunrise will be smaller than that, stay tuned for a POSSIBLE Hookipa beach report.

 Wind map at noon

Kahului Tides
High Tide     High Tide     Low Tide     Low Tide       Sunrise   Sunset
10:32a  +1.8                   4:45a  +1.1   5:30p  +0.3    6:51a   5:46p    

North Pacific has a vast NW fetch and a compact NE one.

Decent Tasman Sea fetch down under, that's a fun off season Fiji swell.

Morning sky.

Quite a bit of rain around us, as shown in the 5.45am rain radar.