Wednesday, June 20, 2018

7am ukumehame is mostly knee high with occasional bigger sets

6am Hookipa is mostly flat with occasional waist to chest high waves at pavilions and the point.  Clean though.
3

Wednesday 6 20 18 morning call

A longboard session for me yesterday. No photos of the day, here's an interesting angle by Jason Hall.



4am significant buoy readings
South shore

W
1.8ft @ 12s from 165° (SSE)

SW
2ft @ 12s from 167° (SSE)

SE
2ft @ 11s from 170° (S)

Barbers
1.8ft @ 13s from 185° (S)

The readings at the buoys are better than what Surfline predicts, and we'll take that. I'm gonna guess knee to waist high. There actually was a small fetch on June 12 and 13 (map below) and that is the source of this energy, IMO. Directions at the outer buoys are for once consistent and reliable (seen the absence of strong easterly windswell in the ocean), while Barbers has the tendency to straighten everything up to the south. One aspect of the importance of knowing the position of the source of a swell is that you don't have to rely on the often unreliable directions of the buoy readings.



North shore
Pauwela
3.7ft @ 9s from 53° (ENE)
 
I wanted to play "where was the fetch" game also for that small 9s energy at Pauwela and I retrieved this map of June 16 where I circled what I think the source of it was. Don't forget that I sample the wind maps only once a day, so we don't have an history of what happened in between samples. Anyway, that should keep the flatness at bay, I will confirm that in a beach report from Hookipa around 6am.


Wind map at noon.


Not much going on in the North Pacific, which has two tiny fetches. I don't think we'll get anything out of the west one (remote and blocked), we might have a bit more chances to get a bit of angular spreading out of the not so well oriented, small and weak (but close enough) NW one. Allright, it was nice to have overhead waves on the north shore in the middle of June, now back to normal.


South Pacific has a closer fetch east of New Zealand and a much more remote one way down close to Antartica. I had to slide the whole map down to catch it, Hawaii is where the red X is. Next week should be ok on the south shore.



Morning sky.

Tuesday, June 19, 2018

6am Hookipa has inconsistent waist to chest occasionally up to head high clean waves with moments of flatness.
5.5

Tuesday 6 19 18 morning call

A shortboard, a longboard and a SUP session for me yesterday. Conditions at Hookipa were excellent in the early morning, I took these photos after my two sessions, when the light trades already ruined the shape quite a bit. Still pretty good for this time of the year, though.




4am significant buoy readings
South shore

Barbers
2.2ft @ 12s from 209° (SSW)

South swell down to minimum terms (sorry, translating from Italian algebra language). Yesterday it was still knee to waist with occasional belly high sets, today it's probably going to be calf to knee/thigh high.

North shore
N
2.6ft @ 11s from 308° (WNW)

Pauwela
3ft @ 8s from 53° (ENE)
2.9ft @ 9s from 350° (N)
 
NW swell down to windswell levels at Pauwela. There might be a low amount of westerly energy in the water (possibly the one shown at the N buoy), but I don't think we'll see it in Maui. Wind is going to be calm in the morning, so at least the small waves will be clean at Hookipa. Bring your longboard is my strong suggestion. I'll post a beach report sometime after 6am.

As Pat Cadlwell (welcome back!) summarizes, we're gonna have quite a few days of wave minimum around the compass.
 
Can't really complain, as it has been an exceptional spell of very good surf on both shores.
 
Wind map at noon.
 
North Pacific has a tiny, non significant for us west fetch. Fourth day in a row of no wave generation for us.
 
That big southerly fetch I pointed out yesterday moved north and now offers a section (in red) oriented towards us with decent winds up to 35 knots and an ever stronger section (in blue) oriented towards central America, of which we should receive some angular spreading energy. Couple of feet 15s in a week.
 
Morning sky.




Monday, June 18, 2018

9.30am Hookipa is now windy. Might be sailable later

7am Hookipa is head high and relatively clean.
8

Monday 6 18 18 morning call

A SUP and a SUP foiling session for me yesterday. I had business on the south shore and didn't even check the waves on the north shore. I also got a bit lazy on the photos (Thousand Peaks is not the most photogenic spot and I spent most of the day there), as did most of my facebook friends. Sam Pa'e from Oahu posted something from the north shore though, and here it is. Solid overhead waves thanks to those two lows that Fujiwaraed their merge into one mid past week. If you don't remember, scroll down and check the North Pacific fetches map. The strongest fetch happened on the 14th.


Obviously there were waves in Maui too. Even in the sky! This photo was taken by my friend Annette.


4am significant buoy readings
South shore

SW
3.5ft @ 12s from 230° (SW)

Barbers
3.7ft @ 13s from 211° (SW)

Most of the outer buoys are registering only the NW energy, but Barbers and SW tell us that there is still southerly energy in the water in the form of 3.5f 12-13s. Yesterday Ukumehame was still waist to chest occasionally shoulder, today it's probably going to be thigh to belly, occasionally chest.

North shore
Pauwela
3.4ft @ 11s from 339° (NNW)
2.7ft @ 8s from 39° (NE)
2.1ft @ 9s from 340° (NNW)
 
Below is the collage of Pauwela's graph (I added a blue dotted line to fill up a gap in the current swell) and the Surfline forecast. Somehow I managed to captured the indication of the dominant open ocean swell between 9-12: 3.7f 11s. Compare it with Pauwela's indication and you'll see why I often state that this forecast is very accurate. You'll also see that the orange line is on its way down, so expect the swell to do the same throughout the day. But, yes, there's still waves on the north shore.
 
 
 


Wind map at noon.


No fetches of relevance for the third day in a row in the North Pacific. Expect the north shore to go flat after the NW energy winds down.



South Pacific has a fetch so deep south that SEEMS to be oriented towards us, but I can't be sure since the great circle rays map doesn't get down there. I had to shift the whole windity map down to spot the fetch and Hawaii is where the red X is above the map. If it is oriented towards (and if the icebergs don't block the swell!), it'll take 10 days for it to reach us, like around Thursday 28th. Where's Pat Caldwell??? Would have loved to read what he thinks about it.


Morning sky.

Sunday, June 17, 2018

11am ukumehame has waist to chest high waves. The mid morning onshore just died and it's getting cleaner

Sunday 6 17 18 morning call

Thanks to blog reader Jason for the donation I received on Paypal.

A SUP foiling session for me yesterday. The first of the Maui Race Series went down at Kanaha yesterday, here's a photo by Jimmie Hepp from this gallery.


4am significant buoy readings
South shore

W
4.6ft @ 14s from 173° (S)

SW
3.2ft @ 14s from 240° (WSW)           
2.7ft @ 12s from 187° (S)
 
SE
3.3ft @ 13s from 173° (S)
2.3ft @ 11s from 172° (S)
 
Barbers
3.2ft @ 14s from 196° (SSW)                      
2.7ft @ 12s from 195° (SSW)
 
Directions all over the place at the buoys (that's why I never really consider them), what counts is that there is still an average of 3f 14s of south swell in the water. The waves weren't pumping as I was hoping yesterday (best day of this swell was Friday), so let's set the expectations kinda low this time on waist to occasionally chest high.

North shore
Pauwela
4.7ft @ 8s from 59° (ENE)
2.6ft @ 11s from 334° (NNW)
1.9ft @ 10s from 333° (NNW)

NNW energy winding down, but still providing fun size waves at Hookipa with clean wind conditions in the early morning.

Wind map at noon.


No fetches of relevance in the North Pacific.


South Pacific has an extremely remote fetch. If that swell is ever going to make it here, it'll be in at least 9 days.


Morning sky.

Saturday, June 16, 2018

7am ukumehame has waist to shoulder high waves and clean conditions. Somehow, not as good as yesterday though. Hookipa looked fun chest to head high.

Saturday 6 16 18 morning call

A longboard and a SUP session for me yesterday, both with excellent waves, as the light E wind and the vog made for glassy conditions all morning on the Lahaina side. Didn't have time to take a photo of the day, but fortunately Jimmie Hepp shot the windsurfers at Hookipa and here's the biggest wave I could find out of this gallery.


4am significant buoy readings
South shore

W
4.7ft @ 15s from 142° (SE)

SW
4.8ft @ 14s from 192° (SSW)

SE
4.8ft @ 13s from 185° (S)

Barbers
4.5ft @ 15s from 179° (S)
 
Really good numbers at the buoys, the waves should be pumping everywhere on the south shore.

North shore
Pauwela
4.4ft @ 8s from 71° (ENE)
3.3ft @ 12s from 324° (NW)
 
NW swell down to 12s, but still there. Enjoy until it lasts, because I don't see much for the next couple of weeks.
 
Wind map at noon.


No significant fetches in the North Pacific.


Small and distant fetch in the South Pacific.


Morning sky.

Friday, June 15, 2018

9am ukumehame was waist to chest high with occasional bigger sets and clean half an hour ago. Big sets close out, but the medium ones were perfect with the mid tide.

Friday 6 15 18 morning call

A day of rest for me yesterday felt really good after the 7 discipline marathon.

No photo of the day either, so here's the banner of the Hi-Tech organized Maui Race Series that will see the first 2018 race this Saturday at Kanaha.


3am significant buoy readings
South shore

Barbers
3.1ft @ 15s from 202° (SSW)

The outer buoys readings are so confusing today (there's some WNW energy in the water that throws the direction completely off), that I decided to only report one of the readings of Barbers. That is what the word "significant" is there for. Anyway, there's long period energy in the water and I have a 5.30am board meeting, so I should be able to post a beach report either before or after that.

North shore
N
2.6ft @ 14s from 297° (WNW)

Pauwela
4.2ft @ 8s from 77° (ENE)
3.1ft @ 14s from 324° (NW)

The reason I reported the N buoy reading is to show that there is some west in this swell. Surprisingly, Pauwela reads a solid 3f 14s, expect head high plus waves at Hookipa and relatively clean conditions in the early morning.

Wind map at noon.



North Pacific looks wintery with one weak WNW fetch, a medium strength NW one and the windswell one. It's the size of that low that is really impressive, it takes half of the north pacific and it will influence the local winds by slowing down the trades.


South Pacific looks wintery too as if has nothing to offer.


Morning sky.

Thursday, June 14, 2018

Thursday 6 14 18 morning call

Too many sessions to list, here's a video that shows what I did yesterday. It's 8 and a half minutes long, save it for later if you don't have time.



I hope I'll be forgiven not to have taken any picture of the day, here's a frame from a video of a friend that shows that foiling jibe at Thousand Peaks. Love the tree.


5am significant buoy readings
South shore

W
2ft @ 11s from 111° (ESE)                      
1.7ft @ 13s from 162° (SSE)

SW
1.9ft @ 12s from 170° (S)
1.5ft @ 17s from 131° (SE)

SE
1.6ft @ 13s from 145° (SE)
0.7ft @ 17s from 100° (E)

Barbers
1.4ft @ 18s from 196° (SSW)
1.3ft @ 14s from 198° (SSW)

New long period south swell on the rise (you know how inconsistent they are). The numbers at the buoys are promising, but with such an extreme low tide at 9.23am in Lahaina, I'm afraid that only in the late morning the sets are going to show their potential. Not sure if I'll be able to post a report, check anyway, just in case.
In the meantime, let's not forget about the shorter period energy still in the water. That's what I was surfing on that side yesterday and it still looks like it could provide knee to thigh high waves to me.

North shore
Pauwela
4.9ft @ 8s from 70° (ENE)

Yesterday's NNW bump seems to have disappeared, but the Surfline forecast still calls for 1.5f 11s on top of the windswell, which, in turn, continues relentless.

Wind map at noon.


North Pacific looking very wintery. The two lows merged into an impressive 964 mbar low. The strongest fetches are not oriented towards us, but we'll still going to get a decent swell (4f 12s on Saturday predicted my Surfline).


South Pacific not offering anything, as that weak ESE fetch will probably be blocked my the Big Island anyway. After a pretty good start of the season, the southern hemisphere swells are going to take a week of break next week. Enjoy this weekend's swell till it lasts.


Morning sky.

Wednesday, June 13, 2018

9am ukumehame has knee to occasionally thigh high waves and variable winds. I'm on a mission. Check the blog tomorrow.

6.45am Hookipa has waist to shoulder high, occasionally head high waves mostly from the windswell. 20 people at pavilions with light trades.
1.5

Wednesday 6 13 18 morning call

A SUP session for me yesterday. Foiling would have been more appropriate, but I had a SUP board to try, which I ended up buying. How anachronistic for a passionate foiler, uh? Fun is only thing I'm loyal to.

Before I start this morning's call, a little more information about the plan of development of the Lahaina harbor ferry pier. Here's a map of the proposed structure. I put an S to indicate the stairs that surfers use to get in the water. It looks like the new pier will look like an upside down L, branching off the old pier and protruding out to right in front of the stairs.



If you don't know where the wave is, this picture should give you an idea (I put an arrow to indicate it).


They way it is, it doesn't seem that it will affect the wave, because the pier will be well inside of it. But we'll never know for sure until it's done. By requesting a public hearing (via email and before June 20th), there will be an opportunity of addressing that issue, together with the one of the safety of the access to the wave or anything else it might concern you. Here's an email I received that gives some guidelines.


SAVE LAHAINA HARBOR SURF SPOT!

Please write to request a public hearing

If we do not request a hearing, none will be held and the plan will go ahead

Deadline for receipt of letters and emails is JUNE 20th

Send your letter to US Army Corps of Engineers requesting that a public hearing be held in the Lahaina area at a time and date conducive to public participation.

Address your letter to: U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Honolulu District Regulatory Office, Attn: Ms. Vera Koskelo, Building 230 Fort Shafter, Hawaii 96858-5440.  

Your letter may be emailed to Vera.B.Koskelo@usace.army.mil.  Reference POH-2015-00221 in the subject heading of the email. In order to be accepted, e-mail comments must originate from the author’s e-mail account.

 Both conventional mail and e-mail comments must include the DA permit number POH2015-00221, and your name, address, and phone number.  All comments whether conventional mail or e-mail should be received by the close of business on June 20, 2018.  

If you have any questions about the project or submission of your letter, contact Vera Koskelo via telephone at (808) 835-4310 or via email.

POINTS TO MAKE IN YOUR LETTER

1)    Request a hearing so that the surfing community on Maui may have its questions and concerns answered.

2)    State that you just recently became aware of the project and are concerned that it may affect the surfing community

3)    State any specific questions or concerns that you might have. For example,…. How will the new pier affect the quality of the wave? How will surfers access the waves during the construction period and after completion of the project? Will the young surfers/groms who gather at this surf spot still be able to hole their NSSA competitions and social gatherings here?  State your own concerns or questions, whatever they may be.

Instructions for emailing are here.

Comments can be mailed to U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Honolulu District Regulatory Office, Attn: Ms. Vera Koskelo, Building 230, Fort Shafter, HI 96858-5440, or e-mailed to Vera.B.Koskelo@usace.army.mil (reference POH-2015-00221 in the subject heading of the e-mail). In order to be accepted, e-mail comments must originate from the author's e-mail account.
Comments must include the DA permit number, POH- 2015-00221, and the commentor's name, address and phone number. For more information on the project or the permit process, contact Vera Koskelo at (808) 835-4310 or Vera.B.Koskelo@usace.army.mil.

And here's a little grom practicing at that break yesterday. It really is grom's central there.


4am significant buoy readings
South shore
SE
1.8ft @ 12s from 137° (SE)

Barbers
1.6ft @ 13s from 186° (S)                      
0.7ft @ 20s from 189° (S)
 
South swell down to minimal levels. Today it'll probably be mostly knee high out of that declining energy. But Barbers shows the beginning of a long period swell (predicted for tomorrow), let's try to find out where that is coming from (if it's true).
 
Below is the collage of the maps of June 5, 6 and 7. There first was a wide fetch right over New Zealand (hence heavily blocked by it) and then on the 7th a very strong one aimed to the east of us, of which we should get some angular spreading over the weekend.

Overall, a tricky setup to predict, that's why the models could have missed the long period energy Barbers is reading.  Keep an eye on that buoy during the day (all the buoys are at link n.11) and on my beach report, if I decide to cruise over there also today. I'll check Hookipa first though.


North shore
Pauwela
5.3ft @ 8s from 81° (E)
2.7ft @ 11s from 345° (NNW)

There we go, on top of the extremely consistent windswell, today we have a lovely bit of NNW energy. Waves could possibly be fun, and I'll check them out before 7am. Sketchy low tide for sure.

Wind map at noon.


The two lows have started their Fujiwara dance. The whole thing is only offering a small WNW fetch at the moment, but it should get better tomorrow as the dance shifts NNE. The windswell fetch is relentlessly in position instead.


South Pacific not looking particularly exciting today and for the rest of the week): the small energy from that little fetch will most likely be blocked by the Big Island.


Morning sky.