Thursday, March 22, 2018

7am lahaina town still has wrap in the waist to shoulder high range. Bit wobbly with some texture. Ukumehame was knee high and very clean.

Thursday 3 22 18 morning call

A shortboard and a windsurf session for me yesterday in a day that saw all kind of conditions up for grabs, if you were willing to drive. Which I did, and took a bunch of photos in various locations. Let's start with Honolua Bay which, as reported in the beach report, had size, but bad shape.

I waited 15 minutes, but I didn't see a ride worth mentioning.

I heard about a second reef outside Napili Bay, but I had never seen it breaking. Until now.

Kaanapali Point had a surfable shore break.

Couple of foiling ladies.

I guess I don't have to mention the spot, as the photos give it away.

Jadon handled this relatively steep drop with a low stance and a lot of weight on the front foot.

I skipped all the west side options for a second session and I went to Kanaha because I wanted to try the new center fin that I quickly glassed on my windsurf board yesterday afternoon. It was big and wild and exciting, but not even remotely as fun as the magic session of the day before at Hookipa. Before going to work, I found the time to take this shot of Hookipa where Antoine Albeau was trying to make the most of the over mast high closeouts.
If you could handle, it was much better on the west side as this photo by Jimmie Hepp from this gallery shows. I checked the place at 9am and could have sailed it by myself, but the wind was sketchy light and offshore. Later on it got stronger, but it just didn't fit in my busy schedule. It was probably a 10 in terms of difficulty anyway, with extremely high risk of breaking the gear. Pro sailors only kind of stuff, but that wave looks incredible.
4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 1.3f 14s plus there should still be the north wrap that yesterday was shoulder to head high in the Puamana area.

North shore
7.7ft @ 14s from 24° (NNE)
5.4ft @ 10s from 22° (NNE)
6.7ft @ 14s from 22° (NNE)
5.3ft @ 9s from 23° (NNE)
4.3ft @ 7s from 42° (NE)
3.7ft @ 12s from 18° (NNE)
Still plenty energy from the the NNE with mixed periods. The ocean on the north shore will still be very rough (also because of the wind), seek for a sheltered spot or go to the west side for cleaner surf.
Wind map at noon.
North Pacific shows the NNE fetch that now is a NE one and got lighter winds. As a consequence, the current NNE swell will continue diminiushing till the weekend and then become a more "traditional" easterly windswell.
South Pacific shows the last contribution of the SSE fetch we had for the past couple of days.
Morning sky.

Wednesday, March 21, 2018

8.30am honolua is head and a half to double, but breaking weird and not really doing its thing. At the moment, at least.

6.30am the wrap in the puamana area is shoulder to head high. Ukumehame is knee high and windy instead.

Wednesday 3 21 18 morning call

A windsurf session for me yesterday, can't remember when was the last time I had so much fun at Hookipa. That is until the wind got strong, of course. Occasionally logo high waves with dreamy smooth bottom turn sections classifies as "as good as it gets" in my book. In comparison to that, it looked pretty average when I got out of the water after the wind got strong (and I lost my center fin by hitting a turtle). It's not that I don't like windsurfing anymore, I still absolutely love it. I just got extremely selective with the conditions. Below is a photo by Jimmie Hepp from this gallery taken later in the afternoon. That is very different from what I sailed.

Shot of the day goes to Flash Austin though, as he's figuring out how to uses this version of the "wind weapon" that he calls my 3.5m hand held wing for foiling. I messaged him that I'd like to try that.

3am significant buoy readings
South shore

No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 1f 14s from the south. Plus there should be a wrap from the NNE swell all the way down to Launiupoko at least (that's my guess).

North shore
9.2ft @ 16s from 26° (NNE)
6.4ft @ 13s from 17° (NNE)
4.3ft @ 10s from 2° (N)

5.6ft @ 13s from 17° (NNE)
4.1ft @ 11s from 12° (NNE)
3.2ft @ 6s from 46° (NE)

Big long period NNE should be on the rise all day today and the 16s reading at the N buoy confirms that.

Pat Caldwell defined this swell "unusual" and he's right, because we don't get many large long period swells from that direction. Here's another important consideration he does: Given the more NE angle for the extra-large event, breaking patterns are expected to be much different than normal with some areas dormant and others extra active, depending on the breaker zone orientation relative to the swell, degree of shadowing and localized refraction from the sea floor.

Let's have a look at this Google Earth image to see what he means. On the right you can see that the NNE lines will hit the north shore reefs unblocked and peel right like a point break. From Hookipa all the way down to Upper Kanaha there should be plenty rights working beautifully (except for the wind). Lowers might get blocked by Uppers a bit. the Waiehu coast will take a direct impact and probably be too big for anything.

Let's now look at the west side. Obviously, the waves will get into Honolua Bay no problem and I drew a bunch of red lines to show how the swell should be able to wrap all along the coast all the way
to Lahaina. It is my experience that actually such a wrap tends to focus on the coast between Lahaina and Launiupoko for some reason. Obviously, the further you move away from the Bay, the smaller the waves should get. Happy hunting.

Wind map at noon.

North Pacific shows a distant NW fetch, a closer but much smaller NW one and a still decent perfectly oriented NNE one. This swell is going to last until the weekend before turning more east.

South Pacific still shows a small SSE fetch.

Morning sky.

Tuesday, March 20, 2018

Tuesday 3 20 18 morning call

Longboard and windfoiling session for me yesterday. No photo of the day, here's an image from March 20 2012 that shows how flat Hookipa was that day. The day after that was a big swell though.

But since we don't like flatness, here's an image from Tahiti by Ben Thouard.

6am significant buoy readings
South shore

No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 1.2f 12s and a new rising low long period one at 0.4f 16s.

North shore
7.6ft @ 10s from 347° (NNW)
4.5ft @ 13s from 303° (WNW)
4.8ft @ 9s from 11° (NNE)
4ft @ 11s from 7° (N)
Fun size readings at Pauwela, the problem at Hookipa will be the wind as usual. It looked pretty fun in the head high range yesterday at sunset when the wind died. Similar size today, while tomorrow it's going to be possibly extra large.

Wind map at noon. Wind map at 2pm looks windier.

North Pacific shows a small distant NW fetch and the strong near NE fetch responsible for tomorrow's big swell.

South Pacific shows the best fetch of the new south swell season so far. Surfline doesn't have much in the forecast and that's very surprising. We'll see what happens in a week.

Morning sky.

Monday, March 19, 2018

Monday 3 19 18 morning call

Double longboard session for me yesterday. Photo of the days goes to Paige Alms who's been having fun with the foil. Photo by Julia Mancuso.

Thanks to blog reader Erik for the kind words about the blog in the lineup. I wanted to take a photo of him surfing with his kid on his board, but for a while I screwed up with the gopro and filmed during the waits instead that during the rides and missed it. Got this shot of a hole in my wetsuit instead. Looks like I need to retire that one soon. Nah, I'll squeeze a couple of more sessions out of it, nothing is hanging out just yet...

4am significant buoy readings
South shore

3.9ft @ 13s from 227° (SW)

Pretty strong reading at the SE buoy, there should be waves also today on the south shore. Knee to waist with occasional bigger sets yesterday.

North shore
8.7ft @ 9s from 40° (NE)
2.9ft @ 13s from 342° (NNW)
8.6ft @ 9s from 15° (NNE)           
2.1ft @ 15s from 313° (NW)

7.7ft @ 10s from 5° (N)
2.9ft @ 5s from 51° (ENE)
0.8ft @ 16s from 325° (NW)
Two new swells to comment about, let's start with the new NW pulse coming from the fetch n.1 of the collage I posted a few days ago. I circled in red the rise at the three reported buoys. But much more significant is the fact that the shorter period N swell from yesterday's fetch is much higher than the WW3 prediction (red arrow on the Surfline forecast on the right): almost 8f 10s instead of 4f 9s.
Between the two, plenty waves on the north shore today, the problem, as usual, will be the wind. Look for sheltered spots or try the west side.
Wind map at noon.

North Pacific shows a strong and close NNE fetch.

South Pacific shows a strong fetch SE of the Tasman Sea and a decent SSE one.

Morning sky.

Sunday, March 18, 2018

6.30am Hookipa has shoulder to head high clean waves. A little inconsistent. Gonna get crowded.

Sunday 3 18 18 morning call

A shortboard and a windsurf session for me yesterday. Got three shots of the day, let's start with something beautiful.

Casey went windfoiling on a Sean Ordones designed board with the foil box well in front of the tail and found out that when riding waves on a windfoil he can't do the same lines as with a regular windsurfer. In fact, you can't really hit lips or stay in the pocket, got to look for relatively slopy sections instead (just like when surf/SUP foiling). Still challenging hence fun.

SUP surfer caught a bit of a gem on his way in at Hookipa.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore

2.8ft @ 13s from 207° (SSW)

Still decent energy at the SE buoy, the Lahaina side should have waves also today.

North shore
9.4ft @ 9s from 27° (NNE)

4ft @ 13s from 312° (NW)

6.4ft @ 8s from 4° (N)
4.2ft @ 12s from 322° (NW)

3.8ft @ 12s from 331° (NNW)

The NW buoy is in the middle of the N fetch circled in the fetches map below and so it's reading a high energy from the NNE, but that will most like miss us to the west. What we have on tap today is the declining yesterday's NW swell that peaked in the late afternoon as the graph below shows. Stay tuned for a beach report around 6.30am.

Wind map at noon shows a NE flow on the north shore.

North Pacific showis a N fetch that will send us first a small pulse on Monday/Tuesday (4f 9s). Much bigger NNE swell is predicted for Wednesday on.

South Pacific shows a weak S fetch and a better SE one but the swell from this last one will probably be blocked by the Big Island.

Morning sky.

Saturday, March 17, 2018

Saturday 3 17 18 morning call

Double longboard session for me yesterday. No photos of the day, here's an Tahititan image from Ben Thouard.

6am significant buoy readings
South shore
1.8ft @ 12s from 169° (SSE)

1.8ft @ 13s from 183° (S)

Southerly energy going down in period at the buoys but there's still knee to waist high waves on the Lahaina side.

North shore
4.9ft @ 13s from 335° (NNW)

4.1ft @ 13s from 319° (NW)

2.8ft @ 8s from 66° (ENE)
1.8ft @ 7s from 71° (ENE)
1.8ft @ 11s from 10° (N)
1.4ft @ 14s from 328° (NW)

New NW swell on the rise at the buoys. Below are the graphs of the three reported ones plus the Surfline forecast. I circled in red the new swell and drew a dotted line for Pauwela based on the travel time from Hanalei to here which, as you can see from the Buoys to Maui travel times and Maui's shadow lines post, at 14s is 9h. The graph of Hanalei suggests that it's peaking at 4f around 6am, so expect a slightly smaller peak in Maui around 3pm. That is a bit earlier than predicted by Surfline. Also check the beach report below this post.

Don't remember where this swell is coming from? No problem, let me refresh your memory with the collage of the fetches maps of March 14, 15 and 16. This swell was made by the fetch marked with the number 1. The n.2 will send a small reinforcement on Monday.

Wind map at noon. I got a feeling I might go windsurfing before work.

North Pacific shows a couple of small fetches. The one to the immediate north of us, should intensify (it's a small occluded low) and provide long lasting short/medium period northerly energy starting Monday.

South Pacific has a couple of small/weak fetches that won't do much for us other than hopefully keep some background knee high energy breakin.

Morning sky.