Wednesday, July 18, 2018

6.30 a.m lahaina side is knee to waist and clean. ukumehame has texture

Wednesday 7 18 18 morning call

A longboard, a SUP foiling and a shortboard session for me yesterday, as this fantastic summer keeps on giving. I caught about 10 waves in the first, 20 in the second and 3 in the third. It might be that scarcity makes it precious, but the feeling of pushing hard on the fins, turning tight and hitting the lip when shortboarding remains my favorite, without a doubt.

It might also be because I'm not as good as Nathan here. He can ride 30-40 waves without coming down and he's gonna do the upcoming Molokai to Oahu (July 29) race on a SUP with the foil. It'll be interesting to see how he does compared Kai and Zane. Talking about which, I got some insides from the last Maui to Molokai race, but I'll wait until a great video that I saw on facebook gets uploaded on youtube.



3am significant buoy readings
South shore

W
1.7ft @ 14s from 162° (SSE)

SW
1.9ft @ 14s from 166° (SSE)

SE
2.4ft @ 14s from 140° (SE)

Barbers
1.4ft @ 15s from 200° (SSW)
0.5ft @ 22s from 199° (SSW)

14-15s swell holds on and will provide most of the waves for the day (still the usual knee to waist is my guess, but I'll report when I get there), but Barbers also feels half a foot @ 22s which is a good sign for the upcoming days. The map of July 10 was an intricate one. Lots of strong fetches, which I circled in red if oriented towards us, in blue if oriented elsewhere but with hope of angular spreading.
In the midst of all that circling, I overlooked a direct fetch to the S of the Tasman Sea which, seen the direction at Barbers (which is more or less reliable), could be the source of the very long period energy. I made amend by circling it in black and publishing it again here below.


North shore
Pauwela
5.4ft @ 9s from 82° (E)
4.4ft @ 6s from 73° (ENE)

The period went up a second at Pauwela, and today the waves at Hookipa should reflect that. Occasionally shoulder to head high is my optimistic guess, seen the not ideal direction.

Wind map at noon.


North Pacific has the windswell fetch, today with a bit of length.


South Pacific map has scattered little fetches, but overall pretty grim for the second day in a row.


Morning sky shows clouds moving in from the west.

Tuesday, July 17, 2018

6.30 a.m lahaina side is smaller than yesterday but still knee to waist and clean. ukumehame windy

Tuesday 7 17 18 morning call

Another excellent longboard and a SUP foiling session for me yesterday. The second one allowed me to witness the best prone foiling I've ever seen, Kai Lenny included. This south African kid called Nathan is a real pelican.

For the third time in the last couple of weeks, the waves in Lahaina improved greatly in the second half of the morning. Obviously, it's not a tide thing, as it was different all the times, it must be a remarkable coincidence. Here's a couple of shots between sessions.

Why do I drive every morning to the south shore? The answer is in the superior quality of the conditions. Why do I live in Maui? One of the reasons is that it has the shortest commute time between north and south shore.


A big set hits the guardrails area.


3am significant buoy readings
South shore

W
1.7ft @ 13s from 173° (S)

SW
1.6ft @ 15s from 170° (S)

SE
1.7ft @ 13s from 142° (SE)

Barbers
2ft @ 14s from 212° (SW)

There we go again, 2f 14s... I'll report when I get there, but you guys should know by now what that means: uncrowded, small, clean waves. No signs yet of the energy of the fetches E of New Zealand I outlined in yesterday's collage. No big deal, as we still have the Tasman Sea energy going. Barbers' direction is correct, the outer buoys, as usual, are all over the place. Surfline told me that they will add Lanai, but it hasn't happened yet. I'll send email n.5.

North shore
Pauwela
6.1ft @ 8s from 83° (E)

Slightly bigger windswell at Pauwela, nonetheless Hookipa looked pretty small (like waist high) from the distance yesterday at sunset.

Wind map at noon.


North Pacific only has the windswell fetch.


South Pacific has a couple of small SSE fetches.


Morning sky.

Monday, July 16, 2018

10 a.m lahaina side has improved and now it has waist to occasionally chest high clean waves. photo taken at launiupoko.
   

7 a.m. lahaina side has inconsistent knee to waist high waves. smaller than yesterday. ukumehame and launiupoko areas are glassy, the first one a bit wobbly.
   

Monday 7 16 18 morning call

Another excellent longboard session for me yesterday. Waves were very clean all morning in Lahaina before the onshore breeze picked up a little later than usual. I don't have a photo of the day (no, that's not Breakwall), so here's Bruno Santos on an absolute gem at Padang-Padang on the first day of the Rip Curl contest. The semifinals will be run Thursday (which for us is Wednesday) when a solid SSW swell of 10f 18s is predicted to hit Bali.



Here's the highlights of the first two rounds.


3am significant buoy readings
South shore

W
1.7ft @ 15s from 191° (SSW)

SW
2.1ft @ 14s from 203° (SSW)

SE
1.4ft @ 15s from 269° (W)

Barbers
2.2ft @ 15s from 219° (SW)

There we go again, 2f 15s, not a big swell, not many people know about it, not a weekend... you know where I'm going. Will report when I get there.

Below is the collage of the maps of July 8,9,10 and 11. As you can see in the first one on the left, the fetch in the Tasman Sea was pretty decent, as was the energy we received yesterday out of it. It should last a couple of days before new energy from that intricate mix of blue and red fetches on the map of the 10th will arrive. That'll be interesting to observe.


North shore
Pauwela
5.5ft @ 8s from 71° (ENE)

Windswell only at the buoy, yesterday at sunset Hookipa was waist to chest, occasionally shoulder high.

Wind map at noon.


North Pacific has the windswell fetch.


No fetches oriented towards us in the South Pacific, hopefully we'll get a bit of angular spreading from the blue one aimed at the Americas.


Morning sky.

Sunday, July 15, 2018

10.30 a.m. lahaina side has very inconsistent sets of the new long period sw swell. they seemed at least waist high, but I haven't seen many. flat to tiny in the long lulls. ukumehame had good wind and launiupoko area is glassy

Sunday 7 15 18 morning call

13 hours of working was all I did yesterday. I'm so thankful that I only do that once a year. Kai Lenny instead won the second Maui to Molokai race which, I assume, had less wind and smaller waves than the first one, but the wind hugged the Molokai coast better allowing him to foil all the way to the finish line and set a new record of 2h 17m. Lots of assumptions there, don't quote me. I also saw a shot of Zane (who came second) foiling with a Maliko 200 this time, while the previous time (seen the stronger wind and bigger waves) he was on a Iwa. No idea what foil Kai was on.

Here's the super human at the arrival, for once looking a little tired.


5am significant buoy readings
South shore
W
2.1ft @ 11s from 154° (SSE)

Barbers
1.5ft @ 11s from 185° (S)
1.2ft @ 16s from 217° (SW)

Everything as predicted at the buoys. The old S swell is down to minimal levels of energy, while a new low long period SW one shows up at Barbers. Excited? You shouldn't. The start of a new SW swell coming from the Tasman Sea is always painfully slow and there won't be that many sets. As a matter of fact, the waves I'm watching on the split screen at Ala Moana seem to mostly belong to the old swell and there's frequent moments of flatness.

This one instead is a solid 16s one, so conditions should slowly improve throughout the day (from the wave size and consistency point of view, of course). I'll probably cruise over the Lahaina side later, right now I'm enjoying a lazy morning of rest.


North shore.
Pauwela
4.6ft @ 8s from 60° (ENE)
3.6ft @ 7s from 58° (ENE)
 
Windswell only at Hookipa, that's gonna be the case for the whole week, but with higher numbers towards the second half thanks to the increase of the trades which is forecasted. Below is the windguru 10 days table. I see some downwinders happening.

Wind map at noon.


North Pacific has a couple of windswell fetches.


South Pacific doesn't have much other then the possible angular spreading of a swell oriented towards the Americas.


Morning sky.

Saturday, July 14, 2018

7 14 18 morning call


An excellent longboard session for me yesterday (I gave it a 9) in a morning that saw Lahaina fire up again (very similarly to last Saturday). Here are some shots.
 
Uncle get style.

Other than the massive board she's riding, let me draw your attention to the set hitting town in the background (possibly head high at Breakwall).

Knee high waves at Launiupoko often offer perfect sections for hanging five.

To hang ten on a ankle high one instead, you really need to very good.

So much beauty in this world.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore

W
1.9ft @ 12s from 143° (SE)

SW
2.7ft @ 12s from 159° (SSE)

SE
2.3ft @ 12s from 161° (SSE)

Barbers
2.2ft @ 12s from 184° (S)

Yesterday I said that I love 2f 14s and after surfing one of my favorite spots with only two other guys, that confirmed to be the case for sure. But 2f 12s can be just as good, if you know which spots prefer shorter periods. Thousand Peaks (wind permitting) is one of them, as it gives life to the proverbial many (maybe not a thousand) peaks with peeling waves, as opposed to closing out ones.

I can't surf today, as it is the day of the massive sale at Hi-Tech. Probably the one day of the year that I can call a hard and long day of work. I guess one day a year is not too bad and it makes me appreciate my light schedule even more.

Come down to check it out, incredible discounts and prices give away at each hour. For example, the KT foil board will be given away at 5pm. We're gonna stoke out some lucky persons with two Starboard SUP's too, but I don't know at what times.


North shore
Pauwela
6ft @ 8s from 74° (ENE)

Windswell on its way up, here's Pat Caldwell's take: July ups the ante for tropical activity for Hawaii and subtle upper and lower atmospheric features lead to wiggles in the isobars surrounding the large high pressure cell. In turn these lead to subtle ups and down in the local winds and windswell...

Wind map at noon.

Like yesterday, north Pacific shows a local easterly windswell fetch and a more distant NE one. Referring to this last one, Pat Caldwell comments:  this could bring in longer-period windswell building Monday from 40-60 degrees, peaking Tuesday near the average, and dropping Wednesday


South Pacific has two small/weak fetches oriented towards us (one in the Tasman Sea and heavily blocked) and a much bigger/stronger one (in blue) oriented towards central America. Hopefully we will get some angular spreading out of that. Angular spreading, what a wonderful thing that waves do.

Morning sky.

Friday, July 13, 2018

9.30 a.m. lahaina side has solid waist high clean sets occasionally bigger. kinda gorgeous,  really.

6.30 a.m. lahaina side has knee to waist high clean waves, occasionally bigger in town. ukumehame had no wind,  but some texture and the wind line was very close.

Friday 7 13 18 morning call

A longboard session for me yesterday. Couldn't find a photo of the day, here's an image from Ben Thouard.


If you don't know him, here's a video about his last project.



3am significant buoy readings
South shore

W
1.9ft @ 14s from 170° (S)

SW
2.4ft @ 13s from 132° (SE)

SE
2.7ft @ 13s from 163° (SSE)

Barbers
2.3ft @ 14s from 186° (S)

2f 14s is one of my favorite readings for a south swell: big enough to surf/sup/foil but not big enough to convey big crowds to the water. If you're wondering where this swell is coming from, here's the collage of the maps of July 5,6 and 7. As you can see, the fetches were not particularly big/strong, but kind of well positioned S to SE of us. The last map shows the start of a stronger fetch that developed in the following couple of days in the Tasman Sea and will be responsible for the new low long period swell predicted for Sunday/Monday/Tuesday. Will report about size and conditions from the Lahaina side as soon as I get there.


North shore
Pauwela
4.2ft @ 7s from 74° (ENE)

Tiny stuff at the buoy and in the water on the north shore.

Wind map at noon.


North Pacific shows a couple of windswell fetches.


South Pacific unfortunately has no significant wave generation for us today.


Morning sky.

Thursday, July 12, 2018

6.30 a.m. lahaina side has inconsistent knee to waist high waves. I also saw a chest-high set

Thursday 7 12 18 morning call

I'm happy to announce a new blog sponsor in Fine Living Photos, of which you'll see a banner on the right. Banners are $50/month or $125/three months.

A prone foiling session for me on the south shore yesterday. This fellow foiler was at Hookipa in the middle of the day instead, enjoying conditions that were like a 5 for foiling, as he was going for a mini downwinder every time he went right. Conditions for surfing were like a 0.5. That's the magic of foiling.


Some of the other magic aspects of foiling are highlighted in this video.



Pavils was for a change uncrowded at sunset, but that's because it was slow and windy and not that great.


4am significant buoy readings
South shore


W
1.8ft @ 15s from 139° (SE)            

SW
2.7ft @ 14s from 167° (SSE)            
 
SE
2.2ft @ 15s from 167° (SSE)
 
Barbers
1.8ft @ 17s from 179° (S)
 
Long period energy went slightly up at the buoys compared to 24h ago. What baffles me is that the recorded period ranges from 14 to 17s. I don't have a theory to explain that. It should be another fun size and not too crowded day on the Lahaina side, stay tuned for a report later.

North shore
Pauwela
4.9ft @ 7s from 60° (ENE)
 
Decent angle and size of the windswell at Pauwela, what prevents the waves to grow on the reef is the relatively short period of 7s (which would be epic in other places of the world, like the Mediterranean Sea). That should improve in the next few days, in the meantime, I'm going to call Hookipa waist to occasionally chest high.

Wind map at noon.

North Pacific has a decent windswell fetch.


South Pacific shows that strong fetch that was hugging the ice sheet yesterday now aiming to the east of us. We should get some angular spreading out of that.


Morning sky.

Wednesday, July 11, 2018

6.30 a.m. lahaina side has very inconsistent long period waves waist to occasionally belly high.  ukumehame windy

Wednesday 7 11 18 morning call

A longboard and a SUP foiling session for me yesterday. First one was excellent, as I found a spot that was much better than everywhere else.

I finally found some kind of info about the Maui to Molokai race that was held last Saturday. I actually didn't find the full results, but I learned from a Facebook post that Zane Schweitzer won the foiling category with the time of 2h 24m. All of which, but the two last miles, were on the foil. That's an incredible feature from the fitness point of view, imo. He said:

It was a tough paddle when landing in those last roughly 2 miles of flats, leaving me to drag the foil on only a 6’9” SUP after pumping hard for 23 miles, but man, was it a fun session and run filled with countless epic full-speed drops and rides I couldn’t even time they were so long!!



More details in this very interesting article from brother Zane here. And this is a short video that shows him in action. Might not seem like much work, but imagine doing that for more than 2h. I foil and I know that's a lot harder than it looks.


Also Dave Kalama just posted an article on his facebook page. In case you don't have facebook, I reported it at the very end of this post... "top three days ever on the water" for a legend like him means a lot! This is his son Austin during the race.


But my favorite shot is this one of Alan Cadiz in the midst of a rain squall.


There's another Maui to Molokai race coming up this Saturday July 14th. Entering it, would be the only good reason not to come to the Hi-Tech annual sale.

2am significant buoy readings
South shore

W
2.7ft @ 12s from 134° (SE)

SW
2.4ft @ 12s from 136° (SE)
1.1ft @ 17s from 45° (NE)
 
SE
1.7ft @ 12s from 126° (ESE)
 
Barbers
1.2ft @ 12s from 182° (S)
1ft @ 18s from 181° (S)
 
The Surfline open ocean swell forecast calls for 1f 18s in the early morning and that's exactly what Barbers shows. Sometimes, the WW3 can be shockingly accurate. I believe also the 17s reading at the SW buoy is the southerly swell (that's how little I trust those directions at the outer buoys). Nothing to be particularly excited about it though, as the long period waves would be extremely inconsistent. Look how distant and semi blocked by New Zealand the fetch was in the map of July 3rd below. I actually count more on the remaining background energy of 12s for my sessions.


As a matter of fact, Ala Moana looks pretty grim in the first light.


Link n.12 is my favorite source for tides for two reasons:
1) somewhere in there I once found a comparison between the prediction and the measured tide and it was 100% accurate
2) it gives you the tide for different places on the island. Below is the tides for Lahaina. A new moon is approaching, we're gonna have some extreme tides in the next few days.


North shore
Pauwela
3.2ft @ 9s from 74° (ENE)
2.8ft @ 7s from 48° (NE)
2.5ft @ 5s from 63° (ENE)
 
The windswell went down and Hookipa looked pretty small at sunset yesterday. It should be less than head high today, I won't check it as I plan on leaving pretty early to go Lahaina side. My SUP foiling board tests continue, I will eventually report one day on my findings.
 
Wind map at noon.


North Pacific only has the windswell fetch.



South Pacific has:
- a fetch SE of New Zealand, part of which (red) is oriented towards us and part (blue) towards central America, but we should get some angular spreading
- a very long and distant fetch hugging the ice sheet. I'm still developing the knowledge of these ones, let's what we'll get in 8-9 days. The Surfline forecast (hence the WW3 model) does indicate a fairly remarkable 3.7f 18s for Sunday 7/21 (but it could be caused by a different fetch that will appear in the next few days). That would be the biggest swell of the season so far. As a reference, I remember a swell a few years ago that read 4f 20s at the buoys and made for some triple overhead waves on the Wailea side. Way too early to get excited, plus my rule with the south swells is to never get excited. I actually like the background knee to waist high stuff better, as it's half as crowded as a "conclamated" swell.


Morning sky.



Here's Dave's article:
Sour grapes never tasted so good! Let me explain, this past weekend I competed in the Molokai Holokai. A race from Maui to Molokai’s Kaunakakai harbor ( 26 miles), consisting of mainly SUP and OC 1 & 2, but this year they added foiling, the discipline I competed in. I believe it was the first official channel crossing race for foiling and it was a doozy. Monster open ocean swells, rain storms that prevented any type of visual reference, and very strong winds, most of the way. ( that’s where the sour grapes come in to play). In any case, the race provided some all time career high lights for me, I had the fastest glides I’d ever had because of the extreme efficiency of the Go Foil Maliko 200 I was using. I rode the biggest swells I’ve ever ridden in the open ocean. Because of the limitations of SUP and Outrigger canoes, you simply cannot go fast enough to ride those behemoth swells to completion, but with the foils you can, and they do, if you have the weight and gumption to track one down, talk about having a tiger by the tail. I also had another personal best, in that I stayed up on foil for approximately 23 to 24 miles, more than double my previous personal record. This wasn’t a solo endeavor by any means though, my fellow competitors( although we felt more like team mates, because we were all jumping off this channel crossing cliff together) were Mark Raaphorst and Alan Cadiz, Zane Schweitzer, and my son Austin Kalama ( his first channel crossing of any kind) .
Off the start I fumbled a bit, was plagued by the confusion of the boat wakes ahead of me, and just general anxiety and stress. I did eventually come down off my foil about a mile into the race. Frustrated, I recognized that I had better hit the reset button and calm down, if I wanted to have any chance of enjoying this experience. To give you some reference of how much I enjoy being out in these channels throughout Hawaii, let me just say, I’ve paddled every major channel in Hawaii at least twice, some as many as 38 times( Kaiwi), Pailolo at least 20, and I’ve even paddled Maliko to Ala Moana (115 mi.) so I know my way around out there, and I also know that the key to success in any crossing is channeling all that nervous energy in to a focused point of calmness, and then finding your rhythm. Once a rhythm is established that’s when the magic starts to happen, and that’s just what happened for me. I took off like a rocket, I realized that the giant swells I’ve always daydreamed about catching were now rideable on a foil, it was literally a channel junky’s wet dream. I not only caught back up to the leaders, but then proceeded to put the hammer down and roll right on by. The internal joy and happiness of this experience put it right up there in my top three days ever on the water. Two of my top three days are in this channel, the other being a 6 man canoe race, and my best day as you might assume is a big wave day at Peahi. Now that I had established a lead I could relax even a little more and truly absorb the pureness of this experience, which in turn creates a freeness to flow and be in the zone even more. At about the half way point I remember passing a unlimited SUP racer, I think maybe Cody but wasn’t sure, we were about a 100 yds. apart, but it gave me an understanding of how fast we were all going. (SUP had started approximately 40 minutes ahead of us). Things continued to be amazing, surfing from swell to swell with a flow that felt more like a epic surf session than a downwind race. At about 7 or 8 miles to go my boat told me I had somewhere between a half mile to a mile lead. I thought to myself don’t get ahead yourself and start thinking about winning, just stay in the moment and keep flowing, so I did, and at about 2 miles to go I noticed the wind beginning to lighten quite a bit but still enough. It wasn’t time to panic yet, but very quickly after that thought, BAM! It went completely still, no wind. I was in trouble, there was still a little a little bump in the water, enough to barely fly but at a much higher energy out put than I could muster. Plop! I went down and I didn’t have the energy to get back up or the bumps necessary to give me a chance. The attribute , that helped me establish the lead ( my size and strength) were now working against me( it certainly didn’t help that I hadn’t done any formal training in the past 8 months because I’ve been so busy building Kalama performance foilboards for everyone. What a shameless plug😂). I had become a monster truck in a 250 cc motocross race and that 250 was coming up my back end. A few minutes later the inevitable happened, Zane went flying by me like a dandelion in the wind and there was nothing I could do about it, other than sit down and have a big gulp of my sour grapes and slice of humble pie. The cherry on top of my humble pie was that not even Zane made it to the finish up on foil, but he sure made it a lot further than I did, so you have to hand it to the kid, he won. And while I was floundering in my pity, I was glad for him, he’s such a good kid and a real testament to how great his parents are. And speaking of kids, one of the days most special aspects was the sharing of this crossing with my son. I’m so proud that he did it, and hopefully someday this channel will bring him some of the joy it has given to me.
I purposely waited a few days to write this so that my sour grapes had a chance to sweet’n a little bit. Am I disappointed that I didn’t win? You better believe it! I have to keep reminding myself though that my time at the throne has come and gone, like the generations before me. It’s time for the next generation to have their turn at the helm. I do take some solace in acknowledging I’m almost 54, am not able to train every day like I used to, and was still able to mix it up with the best of them. Mahalo to my crew on the boat, my coach Bruddah Chris, Brent Deal for making happen, Quickblade paddles for the best you can get, Matty Schweitzer for some insane drone flying, Clare for putting on an incredible race, and my fellow Flyers Alan, Mark, Zane and Austin. Enjoy the wins, enjoy the losses and enjoy a glass of sour grapes now and then. Aloha