Wednesday, March 20, 2019

Wednesday 3 20 19 morning call

The funding campaign for the new Lahaina harbor webcam has raised $400. Thanks a lot and let's keep them coming. I'm gonna start my posts with an update like this until it reaches its goal of $2,000. Please use the campaign page and not the donate button on this blog (unless you mean to donate to the blog).

A prone foil session (more like another lame attempt to ride my too short for my skill 4 foot board) and a shortboard session for me yesterday. This is Honolua which was beautiful as usual on an easterly trades day. I didn't surf it, as I thought I was going to have more fun on an imperfect but uncrowded left than on a perfect but crowded right. I was correct, as I caught a bunch of waves by myself, but I ended up surfing too long and my shoulder this morning is in need of rest. Might take a few days by the look of it. That's why this morning's call is so late: I slept in.
Granger Larsen setting up the barrel.

Looks like one of the Roberson kids (but not 100% sure).

This was Lanes at sunset. Hookipa still had some size.

The windsurfing conditions at Hookipa were epic once again, I officially miss doing that. I got cortisone injections scheduled in a week, but I'll need my fingers to completely heal before I can get back into that. Might be a long time. Photo by Jimmie Hepp from this gallery.

5am significant buoy readings
South shore
1.7ft @ 13s from 225° (SW)

If Lanai feels something, there might easily be something. Yesterday the Lahaina side looked like knee high. Today Ala Moana looks pretty small, but not flat.

North shore
7.4ft @ 17s from 306° (WNW)
3.2ft @ 11s from 332° (NNW)

5.4ft @ 12s from 335° (NNW)
2.8ft @ 20s from 311° (NW)

4.6ft @ 13s from 325° (NW)
3.8ft @ 10s from 336° (NNW)
1.4ft @ 20s from 305° (WNW)
4.6ft @ 12s from 330° (NW)
3.2ft @ 9s from 350° (N)
0.6ft @ 22s from 319° (NW)
The big Monday swell is still tapering down and underneath it a new long period one (the fetch that was right behind it) is slowly picking up. Below is the graphs of the four reported buoys together with the Surfline forecast (not particularly easy to read today). From the observation of both (what's happening in the water and what the models think it's going to happen), I drew a red dotted line to show that the new swell will be barely noticeable until the afternoon. The later the better and it's pretty much only tomorrow when it's going to provide us with another run of relatively big waves (9ft 15s from 321). For today, enjoy the fun size wave still around and the glassy windless conditions that on the north shore should last until 11sh.
Wind map at noon.
Yet another strong NW fetch on the North Pacific conveyor belt.
Nothing from the south.
Morning sky.

Tuesday, March 19, 2019

Tuesday 3 19 19 morning call

The funding campaign for the new Lahaina harbor webcam has raised $350. Thanks a lot and let's keep them coming. I'm gonna start my posts with an update like this until it reaches its goal of $2,000. 

A shortboard and a longboard session for me yesterday. In between, I drove to Honolua to take photos. 50 guys out and solid size, didn't think for even a moment to paddle out.
Jacob Romero always on the best waves.

This one gives a sense of the size.

This looks like Logan Bediamol and he came out of that and got barreled a second time on the inside.

Successful double hand drag.

The surfer is actually filming the body boarder.

Way to kick out.

Best wave of my photoshoot session.

He's deep in there.

And when it came out, the wave still looked amazing.

Jimmie Hepp took some photos too and you can see them in this gallery.

He also shot the windsurfers and I picked this photo out of this gallery. Extremely clean faces, I would have sailed too if I didn't have my trigger fingers. Relatively small size due to the not particularly favorable direction. As I pointed out yesterday in that wrap map, the west side loves straight N to 15 degrees.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
0.7ft @ 20s from 243° (WSW) 

1ft @ 20s from 225° (SW)

Lovely unexpected 20s readings at the local south facing buoys. I guess Pat Caldwell will be surprised too: No sources in the southern hemisphere last week are identified to give surf beyond the seasonal background levels of mostly flat with select areas in the tiny to small bracket this week.

Below are the maps of March 12, 13 and 14. On the first one I drew the great circle rays of 220 and 240, which clearly shows that the direction indicated by the buys cannot be true. There was absolutely nothing in that position that could generate 20s small waves. The source was probably deep in the Tasman Sea instead. Wherever it was, that should keep the flatness at bay once again. Yesterday there was a bit of wrap in Lahaina (mostly waist, very occasionally up to chest high), but that should be gone today. Soon, I'll be able to say again: "check the Lahaina webcam before going"...

North shore
6.9ft @ 13s from 302° (WNW)
5.3ft @ 10s from 336° (NNW)

8.8ft @ 13s from 314° (NW)
3.4ft @ 10s from 323° (NW)
2.7ft @ 11s from 317° (NW)
8.7ft @ 14s from 313° (NW)
5.3ft @ 11s from 326° (NW) 
7.9ft @ 14s from 321° (NW)
4.5ft @ 9s from 343° (NNW) 
NW swell on the decline exactly as predicted by the Surfline forecast. Below is Pauwela's today graph, together with yesterday's prediction. I keep hearing "this swell wasn't as big as they said it was going to be" and I keep replying "maybe it wasn't as big as you thought it was going to be, but it was just as big as predicted".

So at this point most readers would like to know where to go surf today. That obviously depends on skills and preferences. Can you handle 8ft 14s from 321 at Hookipa? Then you go there! If not, you go down the coast. You don't know how big the waves will be with 8ft 14s? Then you go look, and you remember next time... but it'll be still big up there.

Wind map at noon. Early hours should be glassy towards Kahului.

North Pacific has a pretty unimpressive fetch NW fetch.

South Pacific has nothing for us.

 Morning sky.

Monday, March 18, 2019

Monday 3 18 19 morning call

The funding campaign for the new Lahaina harbor webcam has raised $280 also thanks to the contribution of some of you blog readers. Thanks a lot and let's keep them coming. I'm gonna start my posts with an update like this until it reaches its goal of $2,000.

A longboard and a shortboard session for me yesterday. No photo of the day, this is Derek Hamazaki making good use of his paddle. It's another personal preference thing, some SUP foilers don't like to use theirs. I do.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
4.7ft @ 17s from 301° (WNW)

I don't know how many times I've been asked if there was going to be a wrap of this swell on the west side. The real answer to that question is nobody really knows because the variables involved are too many and the direction of this swell is not particularly favorable to the wrap even though it's pretty massive. All I know I elaborate here. I took this photo from the post Buoys to Maui travel times and Maui's shadow lines and I added three lines of different colors:

1) the black line shows the easiest way to the most common wraps that happens when the swell is from 350 to 20 degrees, which is not the case, at least just yet. On a big north swell, the wrap can come down all the way to Lahaina, particularly focusing on the Puamana area. Yesterday's fetch was suggesting a strong northerly component, which might arrive tomorrow. So this wrap has more chances of happening tomorrow, imo, IF the swell will come from a more northerly direction.

2) the yellow line indicates the narrow corridor between Niihau first and then Molokai and Lanai. That is 285 and that's not the case either.

3) the red line was drawn roughly from 300 degrees, which is the direction that the Lanai buoy shows this morning with a healty 4.7ft 17s. That energy will have to wrap around the south tip of Lanai and possibly hit the Kihei coast and even the Ukumehame area. Will it happen today? As I said, I don't really know, but it's likely. We'll find out later today.

North shore
12.3ft @ 15s from 321° (NW)
4.2ft @ 9s from 334° (NNW)
3.4ft @ 11s from 320° (NW)
18ft @ 17s from 321° (NW)
5.1ft @ 9s from 328° (NW)
17ft @ 17s from 322° (NW)
17ft @ 17s from 323° (NW)
5.5ft @ 11s from 330° (NW)
Below is the collage of the graphs of the four reported buoys, plus the Surfline forecast. This was the first time ever that I saw Hanalei going higher (21ft) than the NW buoy. The reason, I think, is that the fetch got so close to the islands that the wind kept building the swell also on the stretch of ocean between the NW buoy and the islands. Usually instead, the swell declines in that part (and cleans up), as there isn't active wind on it to keep building it.

The vicinity of the fetch made this swell extremely rough and with multiple periods overlapping. Pipeline looked like Sand Piles yesterday (a massive Sand Piles!), and all of Maui's north shore will be unsurfable, with the only possible exception of the Kahului harbor.

The place to go is the west side. Honolua will be pretty massive and the more you move down the coast towards Lahaina, the more the size should decrease. As usual, the wind will play an important role, so keep an eye on it.
Wind map at 11am. I got the feeling the wind maps are being updated while I type this, so the 11am map was the latest I could retrieve.

North Pacific now has another relatively close and strong NW fetch for the next swell on the conveyor belt.

Nothing from the South Pacific.

Morning sky.

Sunday, March 17, 2019

7.30am ukumehame is flat to knee high and relatively clean. I was told lahaina has north wind.

6.30am hookipa has already sets up to double overhead, which makes me think that all I wrote about the arrival timing is wrong... love it!
Wind is not bad at all, but it looks unruly and kinda menacing.

Sunday 3 17 19 morning call

The funding campaign for the new Lahaina harbor webcam has raised $150 in a day thanks to the contribution of some of you blog readers. Thanks a lot and let's keep them coming. I'm gonna start my posts with an update like this until it reaches its goal of $2,000.

A shortboard and a longboard session for me yesterday. This is the deceiving semi-perfection of Hookipa. It was only the 7 that I gave it. Plus the crowd.

This is an above average peelers at Middles. After surfing it and having very little fun because of the crowd, I surfed a spot that was waist high and uncrowded and had much more fun.

Harbor was providing the usual foiling perfect conditions. Here's a first clip of Kane.

Kai Lenny took someone out on his ski.

Kane's rail grab.

Tow foiling seems to be the "thing" of the moment. Many teams were out, these are the Lickle's.

Here's another clip of Kane.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
1.5ft @ 15s from 255° (WSW)

The only possible reading indicating southerly energy is the one I reported, even though it has a weird (probably wrong) direction. If that's the "continuation" of yesterday's 1.5ft @ 17s from 225° (SW), there should still be waves on the south shore today. Yesterday I was told it was another beautiful waist high day.

North shore
12.6ft @ 14s from 347° (NNW)
5.9ft @ 10s from 346° (NNW)
5.5ft @ 8s from 345° (NNW)

5.4ft @ 10s from 329° (NW)
4.8ft @ 7s from 329° (NW)
3.9ft @ 14s from 317° (NW)
4.3ft @ 12s from 332° (NNW)
4.8ft @ 12s from 332° (NNW)
2.4ft @ 14s from 329° (NW)
The most significant readings this morning are the ones of the NW buoy. I reported its graph below together with the Pauwela one and the Surfline forecast. As you can see, it only started to ramp up during the night. Let's say it was around 10 feet 14s at midnight (red arrow), by applying GP's rule of thumb for the travel time (16h @16s +1h/-1s and viceversa), we should see the equivalent of that only after 18h, which is 6pm. I then drew a dotted line on Pauwela's graph to reflect that and it came out pretty similar to the Surfline graph which, imo, remains the most reliable forecast on the internet. As long as you only check the open ocean swell and completely disregard the specific spots forecasts which, still imo, are completely useless.

In the end, what time the big waves will show up doesn't mean much for most of us. The conditions will be pretty horrible on the north shore because of the onshore post-front winds (already 12mph in Kahului at 6am, so no clean dawn conditions unfortunately) and the mix of periods. But nonetheless, do expect the waves to start increasing significantly only in the afternoon.
Wind map at noon.
North Pacific has the nearby very long fetch that now has an exciting N component stretching all the way to the Kurils. The small but intense NW one will be the one responsible for Thursday's swell.
Nothing from the South.
Morning sky shows the front which is right on top of us at 5am.

Saturday, March 16, 2019

6.30am hookipa has inconsistent sets head to occasionally head and half high. Clean conditions with no wind.

Saturday 3 16 19 morning call

Before I start the regular call, here's an important announcement. The Ozolio representative who I've been trying to help find a site for a new Lahaina webcam, found a killer location. He needs to raise some money to get the camera going, after which it should be self sufficient thanks to the ads. I had the honor to be the first donor, please join the funding campaign on this page if you care. I'm tired to check Ala Moana and try to guess what's in Lahaina... we need a webcam on the spot, it's been more than a year! Thanks!
Btw, that's a photo I took last year during a really big swell. I filed it in a folder called Lahaina harbor, but now that I look at it looks more like Breakwall. Same thing.

Two longboard sessions for me yesterday. After the first one, I was very tempted by the lovely foiling conditions at the harbor, but I need to heal my trigger fingers and I decided no SUP foiling or windsurfing/foiling until they heal. IF they heal.

For the same reason I also skipped the early morning foiling action which happened to be quite good too. This is my boss Kim Ball and that reminds me to mention that this morning there will be the Hi-Tech organized interscholastic league surf contest at Flemings. Photo by Chris Pagdilao.

Just yesterday that I stressed out the importance of checking the buoys to decide if to go to Honolua, the Surfline buoy webpage was not working. Had I seen the buoy readings that I saw afterwards, I would have not driven over to the west side. But in the end it was a blessing, as it was small and very slow, but I got a few like that made it worth it.

Windsurfing at Hookipa has been ridiculously fun in the last three days. My buddies keep scoring, but I can't join them. This is my pick out of Jimmie Hepp's gallery of the day.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
1.5ft @ 17s from 225° (SW)

Lanai stubbornly keeps sensing a decent amount of SW energy. Yesterday the waves on the Lahaina side were knee to waist high.

North shore
3.9ft @ 11s from 319° (NW)
3.7ft @ 15s from 317° (NW)

3ft @ 11s from 342° (NNW)
2.5ft @ 14s from 339° (NNW)
2.5ft @ 16s from 316° (NW)

2.8ft @ 12s from 332° (NNW)
2.8ft @ 16s from 313° (NW)

3.7ft @ 9s from 43° (NE)
2.9ft @ 11s from 325° (NW)
1.8ft @ 18s from 317° (NW)

Seen the zonal orientation of the jet stream during this week, we've seen many medium size NW swells rise and fall. The fast track across the great circle rays relative to Hawaii limits local surf potential is Pat Caldwell's better way of explaining that. Today we have another small long period swell picking up locally (18s reading at Pauwela), while the old one slowly fades (11s reading). On top of that the usual easterly windswell (9s reading). Will three swells in the water make for messy conditions and disorganized breaking patterns? Not at those small sizes is my guess. Actually, the lack of wind until 10am should make for pretty clean conditions. Stay tuned for a Hookipa beach report before 7am.

Wind map at noon. All purple till 10 before that.

North Pacific shows the strong fetch that is generating the upcoming giant swell already getting pretty close to us. The small W fetch off Japan will be responsible for another swell (this time just big, not giant) that will arrive Thursday. The small N fetch instead will joing the NW fetch and add to it a nice northerly component. We'll see that better tomorrow.

Nothing from the South. North Pacific's pumping swell after swell, South Pacific went back to sleep. Told you it's not time to talk about change of the season yet...

Morning sky.