Wednesday, January 16, 2019

Wednesday 1 16 19 morning call

A shortboard and a SUP foiling session for me yesterday. Here's a shot from the first one.

These are a couple of shots taken by Chris Pagdilao during the early foiling session. Jeremy Riggs is an elegant foiler. Killer light.

Mark Raaphorts' perfect use of the paddle in a tight front side cutback.

Conditions were pretty epic all morning. This is one of my many exhilarating rides I had around noon.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
6.5ft @ 17s from 309° (WNW)
2.2ft @ 11s from 291° (WNW)
1.4ft @ 9s from 189° (S)
3.1ft @ 17s from 286° (WNW)
2.3ft @ 12s from 277° (W)
1.5ft @ 9s from 207° (SSW)
Ok, ok, I give up and admit that the waves that there have been in Kihei and Lahaina are from the wrap of the WNW swell. In the epic post Buoys to Maui travel times and Maui's shadow lines I analyze the shadow angles of that area on a westerly swell. I just added a map that shows the possibility of the energy squeezing in also between Molokai and Lanai and copied the whole paragraph at the end of this post. Judging from the readings at the buoys, there should be something also out of the new WNW swell that is hitting today.
North shore
9.4ft @ 15s from 304° (WNW)
7.3ft @ 17s from 308° (WNW)
6.8ft @ 14s from 309° (WNW)

9.2ft @ 17s from 317° (NW)

8.5ft @ 17s from 320° (NW)
1.8ft @ 9s from 23° (NNE)

New WNW pulse peaked during the night. Below is the graph of NW101, Waimea and Pauwela, notice the double hump camel back shape. That means more westerly energy on tap for the day (original direction at the NW101 buoy is 304), once again 8.5f 17s are too much for me at Hookipa, once again I'll probably surf down the coast.

Wind map at noon. Pretty much another windless day and great conditions everywhere.

North Pacific has a new WNW and an old (was there yesterday) NNW fetch. Both kinda weak today.

Nothing from the South.

Morning sky.

Here's the abstract from the post Buoys to Maui travel times and Maui's shadow lines.

Let's talk also about the Kihei coast and the westerly swells.
Google Earth shows the shadow line from Lanai to Kalama park in Kihei as 273 degrees. Anything from there to straight west, doesn't get blocked/refracted and will have a more direct impact.

A little better angle applies to Ahihi Bay: 283.

But don't forget that a the bigger the size and the period of a swell, the more the waves have the ability to refract around land points. The photo below shows that as long as the swell is 290 or more west, the south point of Lanai will refract energy that has not been refracted by Ni'iahu. But if a swell is big and long period enough, even if it comes from directions more north of 290, it could still refract first over the south point of Ni'iahu, change its direction into 290 or more west, and then refract again over Lanai and hit Maui. I remember one coming from around 300 that provided double overhead waves to Kihei.

It all depends on each single swell and there's no mathematical/geometrical rules you can apply that work all the times.
I've see too many times very similar swells doing very different things.
That is also because if the swell has a direction at the NW buoy, that doesn't mean that the swell hitting the south point of Ni'iahu will have the exact same direction. It is possible that it will be more west there and that the waves will be bigger than you would expect based on these information I'm providing.
So this is just a reference to try to guess when it's worth to get in the car (or check the webcams).

Another possible (but rare) possibility for the energy of a WNW swell to reach Lahaina and Kihei is to squeeze in the channel between Lanai and Molokai. The picture below shows the shadow line from Ni'iahu, which is around 285.

The close up below shows a possible refraction pattern that such swell might have.

Tuesday, January 15, 2019

Tuesday 1 14 19 morning call

A shortboard and a wave windfoiling session for me yesterday. I will specify the second discipline as "wave" every time from now on, because there was also a friend with a "regular" windfoiling setup (foil box all the way at the back), and boy what a difference between the two! Same difference between wave sailing and slalom sailing. "How can you jibe so easy?", he asked. That's because his setup wants to go straight and fast and mine instead wants to turn and keeps foiling at slow speed. Plenty info about this topic in the posts grouped under the label windfoiling.

Once again I'm going to start with a picture from the 12th. This is one of many wonderful outer reefs we have in Maui. Photo by FishBowlDiary from this gallery.
Talking about the 12th, here's the link to replay of the second day of the Da Hui Shoot-out at Pipeline. Pretty maxed out conditions, with occasional rollovers from the second reef into huge caverns on the inside. I hope they'll keep it there for a while, so I'll watch it a dinner at the time.

Hookipa looked pretty good at sunset.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
2.9ft @ 9s from 179° (S)

Short period energy still registered by Barbers.

North shore
9.8ft @ 16s from 299° (WNW)
4.3ft @ 10s from 312° (NW)

10.5ft @ 15s from 310° (WNW)

8.8ft @ 15s from 313° (NW)

8.8ft @ 14s from 321° (NW)

Below is the graph of NW, Waimea and Pauwela. I put an arrow to indicate the reinforcing bump that in Maui peaked at midnight around 9f. Judging by the graphs, it should come down a foot or two and stay steady during the day. That means yet another day of big waves and clean conditions in the whole morning.

The Surfline forecast has it increasing all day instead, as it predicts the arrival of the swell generated by the fetches we started seeing on the 12th. I believe that will only happen tonight instead. Not the most critical detail, as at 8f or 10f the waves will still pretty big for most of us.

Wind map at 10am.

Wind map at noon. Notice the difference, specially in the Kahului area.

North Pacific has an elongated moderate NW fetch. That's a nice, unblocked direction for Maui.

Nothing in the South Pacific.

Morning sky.

Monday, January 14, 2019

Monday 1 14 19 morning call

A shortboard and a SUP foiling session for me yesterday. Lots of photos of the day, but I'm going to start with one from the day before (January 12). Yuri Soledade at Jaws, photo by Fred Pompermayer. Judging by the light (and by the size!), that was probably the late afternoon.

This one instead is from yesterday. Joao Marco Maffini, photo by Nick Ricca.

Let's move to something more common-mortally, here's a frame grab from my shortboard session.

Getting slowly better at those take-offs with the lip breaking on your back. Strong arms and will seem to be the secret.

This is the best of the 11 waves I caught.

Since I got back, I've pretty much been constantly in the water (or at work). I was hence tired mid morning (but no jet lag whatsoever, despite the 11 hours time difference!) and I chose a mellow foiling session at the harbor. Here's Kane demonstrating that the shoulders are the part of the body that turns first, the rest will follow.

He's paddling an extremely thin board, got to ask him the volume. Gonna guess 20-22.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
3.6ft @ 9s from 183° (S)

That short period energy registered by Barbers might be the explanation of the knee to waist high waves in the Lahaina area I keep hearing about from my rental customers. I don't believe in wraps from the NW over there.

North shore
8.7ft @ 15s from 311° (NW)

9.2ft @ 15s from 322° (NW)

7.7ft @ 14s from 310° (WNW)

8.1ft @ 15s from 322° (NW)
2ft @ 8s from 90° (E)

Day three of this beautiful swell and still plenty energy in the water. Hookipa looked doable (by me) at sunset, but I only looked a couple of minutes from the distance. I'll probably going to trust the buoy instead and go somewhere towards Kahului. 8f 15s a bit too big for my taste, but there will be people surfing. Conditions will be most likely excellent, due to the lack of wind. Judging by the readings at the other buoys, the size shouldn't come down too much during the day.

Wind map at noon shows the usual possible trades up at Hookipa...

...but look how calm is should still stay at 10am.

Morning sky.

Sunday, January 13, 2019

Sunday 1 13 19 morning call

Two shortboard sessions for me yesterday. The swell picked up as predicted and the quality of the waves in the mid to late morning was excellent. Here's a shot from Hookipa from this surfing gallery by Jimmie Hepp.

This is the link to the windsurfing gallery instead. Despite my doubts (or maybe they were hopes), the wind model was correct and it did get windy enough in the afternoon.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys. I got reports of knee high waves on the Lahaina side. Ah, how nice it would be to have a Lahaina webcam again! Please contact Ozolio if you have the possibility to host one.

North shore
10.5ft @ 16s from 312° (NW)

12.1ft @ 17s from 314° (NW)

12.1ft @ 17s from 313° (NW)

9.9ft @ 20s from 320° (NW)
4.7ft @ 17s from 319° (NW)
Swell still pumping at the buoys, but it has peaked during the night and there will be a slow downward trend all day, more noticeable in the afternoon. Below are the graphs of NW, Waimea and Pauwela together with an extract of yesterday's collage. From it, we can see that the dotted line I drew yesterday on Pauwela's graph was a bit too conservative. In fact, the graph reached the same 4f 20s at noon as the NW buoy 12 hours earlier. Little details that most likely did not have any influence/importance at all for you guys, but I like details.

Bottom line is: big waves all day today on the north shore. The original direction of the swell is around 305-310, not ideal for the west side, but the size and period will guarantee beautiful and powerful waves at Honolua (would love to get photos/reports from there), but not as much down the coast towards Kaanapali. For the same reason, the Kahului area will not get 100% of the energy of this swell, but only the part of it with a more northerly component.

Wind map at noon.

North Pacific has a good NW fetch.

South Pacific has a couple of weak fetches.

Morning sky.

Saturday, January 12, 2019

6.45am hookipa is chest to head high. As expected, I haven't seen many long period lines just yet. Clean conditions.

Saturday 1 12 19 morning call

I'm back on the island and here's the post that starts the 2019 season of the blog. As usual, I'll do my best to share my knowledge and my stoke. Thanks everyone for the support.

Photo of the day goes to Jason who took advantage of a footstrap to punt some airs on his foilboard. Photo by Chris.

I missed out on an absolutely epic north swell, but I just couldn't find a way to be back early enough for it. Below a random Pauwela reading in the night of the 9th. Swells of that size, period and direction happen once every 5 years, imo. Even more than that if you add the fact that there was no wind and no other swells in the water. And when it happens, every spot on the north and west shores works. Haven't seen many photos of it, but I know it was a special one. Hope you guys enjoyed it.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys.

North shore
6.2ft @ 21s from 318° (NW)

3ft @ 13s from 331° (NNW)
2ft @ 12s from 332° (NNW)
1.8ft @ 22s from 325° (NW)

3.9ft @ 13s from 347° (NNW)
1.5ft @ 25s from 324° (NW)

3.9ft @ 13s from 357° (N)
2.5ft @ 10s from 358° (N)
1.9ft @ 11s from 351° (N)
I missed out on an epic N swell, but I got back just in time for the rise of an XL NW one. Below are the graph of NW, Waimea and Pauwela buoys and the Surfline forecast. At midnight, NW was reading 4f 20s and by applying GP's rule of thumb for the travelling time 16h at 16s (+1h -1s and viceversa for different periods),
we can expect that energy (minus the dissipation for the extra travel time) to be in Maui around noon. Consequently, I drew with a red dotted line to show how I think the swell will rise locally: very little during the early morning and very noticeable during the afternoon. As indicated by the forecast, the XL day will be tomorrow. Pretty good missed opportunity to run the Eddie, Jaws will see some action for sure.
This morning we'll still have 4f 13 from the N to play with and the lack of wind in the early morning (see 8am wind graph below) should make for excellent conditions. I will report from Hookipa before 6.30am and to say that I'm excited is an understatement.

The Windguru table shows that we're in for a good run of big waves and excellent conditions. Cheers to that.

Wind map at 8am shows no wind or light sideoff for the whole north shore.

Wind map at non shows some trades filling in at Hookipa. It might be one of those cases in which the model overestimates the wind though.

North Pacific has a strong NW fetch. No shortage of waves this week and for the rest of January.

South Pacific has a decent distant S fetch. We might see something out of it in a week.

Morning sky.

Monday, December 31, 2018

Monday 12 31 18 morning call

Thanks to blog readers Kathy, Roy and Joe for their donations.

It's the last week of the year, please feel free to show your appreciation for the 2018 season of the blog with a donation via the Paypal button. Thanks.

December has been totally epic for the wind related sports, here's a happy windsurfer at Hookipa yesterday in this photo by Jimmie Hepp from this gallery.

The swell that hit Thursday/Friday was pretty west but big/long period enough to allow it to wrap into Honolua Bay. This is my friend Marco. Not sure what day though.

5am significant buoy readings
South shore
3.6ft @ 8s from 169° (SSE)
0.6ft @ 18s from 224° (SW)

3.5ft @ 8s from 169° (SSE)
0.6ft @ 18s from 193° (SSW)
Once again the local buoys show a sliver of long period energy from the SSW and once again all you can see at Ala Moana is the short period one from the SSE. It shouldn't be flat either on the south facing shores of Maui, but not by much.

North shore
6.3ft @ 10s from 75° (ENE)

7.7ft @ 9s from 66° (ENE)

Not a single reading from the NW quadrant at any buoys on December 31st, that's a sign that this has been a bit of an unusual winter so far. Waimea shows a bit of 9s energy from the N, but as Mokapu shows, that's just the easterly windswell wrapping into Oahu's north shore. So windswell only of offer today. Actually, let me correct myself: windswell and wind.

Wind map at noon.

North Pacific has the same WNW and NW fetches we saw yesterday, but the first one got a lot closer. When a fetch moves in the direction of the waves it's generating, it's called captured and it's one of the conditions for extra large waves. Unfortunately this one remains from a direction that will be partially blocked for us. Surfline predicts 8.7f 15s from 307 on Thursday.

Nothing of relevance from the South.

Morning sky.