Tuesday, December 18, 2018

6.30am hookipa has the mix of swells I described in the morning call. Size at the moment seems to be up to head and a half, but with occasional double overhead sets. Should get bigger soon.
Clean conditions.
8 if you can handle.

Tuesday 12 18 18 morning call

A SUP foiling and a windfoiling lesson for me yesterday. Here's the photos I took after the first one.
Brother Dan.

Brother Alika.

The main peak was kinda firing and the action was awesome.

Here I'm trying the new Kalama SUP foiling board with mast truck of a friend of mine.

This was my friend's first proper wave windfoiling session. Already looking down the line.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys.

North shore
9.7ft @ 17s from 318° (NW)
1.6ft @ 13s from 337° (NNW)
5.1ft @ 20s from 324° (NW)
4.4ft @ 13s from 325° (NW)
2.6ft @ 9s from 354° (N)
2ft @ 15s from 356° (N)

5.2ft @ 13s from 335° (NNW)
2.8ft @ 20s from 322° (NW)
2.7ft @ 10s from 346° (NNW)

5.5ft @ 12s from 334° (NNW)            
2.8ft @ 9s from 22° (NNE)
2.4ft @ 22s from 325° (NW)
Back to back extra large swells. The old one is still a really fun size clocking in at 5.5f 12s from 334 locally, while the new one is showing a healthy 9.7f 17s at the NW buoy. Notice how the size is progressively smaller while the period progressively higher while you move down the island chain, which shows how the longer periods (but smaller sizes) travel ahead of the shorter ones. That is pretty evident in the graphs of all the reported buoys collaged below together with the Surfline forecast. This last one, looks a bit complex, but such have been the fetches in the North Pacific lately. Lots of sources and energies. To recap, an old but still significant NW swell on the decline and a new long period extra large swell on the rise all day. Plenty action for everybody (if you know where to go), but watch the wind that is going to introduce short period chop in the lineups.
Wind map at noon, shows an onshore flow that will start making everything look progressively worse (becoming totally ugly tomorrow). Should be pretty clean until 9am though, so not a day to sleep in.
More complex fetches continue in the North Pacific.
Nothing of relevance in the South Pacific.
Morning sky.

Monday, December 17, 2018

Monday 12 17 18 morning call

A shortboard session for me yesterday. Here's an image of a lonely surfer at Hookipa by Jimmie Hepp.

This is Honolua in the morning sent to me from a friend of mine (in case you missed the report I posted at 9.30am). Most spots in Maui (and Oahu, as the Pipe contest clearly showed!) were suffering from the 18s period, Honolua instead loves it. Pretty much the higher the better over there.

3-4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys.

North shore
6.6ft @ 14s from 327° (NW)

8ft @ 14s from 324° (NW)
4.5ft @ 11s from 336° (NNW)
1.3ft @ 10s from 348° (NNW)
9.4ft @ 14s from 323° (NW)
9.1ft @ 14s from 328° (NW)
2.8ft @ 13s from 333° (NNW)
1.8ft @ 6s from 72° (ENE)
Below is the graph of NW and Pauwela buoys and the Surfline offshore swell forecast (link n.15). Notice how the first one had a pretty well defined peak at 12f 14s around 9am. 14s take 18h to get here, so that would suggest a similar peak around 3am locally, which would be in line with the forecast too. But looking at the Waimea and Hanalei readings, it seems that the swell should stay pretty steady for most of the day. Interesting and hard to explain, we'll know tomorrow how it went. It won't matter too much for most people, as 7 or 9 feet at 14s both mean fairly big waves.
One thing for sure: the contest at Pipeline will have much better waves than yesterday. That doesn't take much, as, imo, it was a pretty bad call to run it in conditions that offered for 90% of the times 18s stretched out closeouts with competitors winning heats on incomplete rides (must be the trend of the year!) and total heat scores of 3-4 points.

Wind map at noon.

North Pacific keeps providing another beautiful NW fetch.

Nothing of relevance from the South Pacific.

Morning sky.

Sunday, December 16, 2018

9.30am sharing a photo from a friend of beautiful Honolua. Inconsistent and crowded.

Sunday 12 16 18 morning call

A shortboard session and a bit of windfoilling during a lesson for me yesterday. After my early morning session at Hookipa, I stopped at the point to take some photos. No successful rides in 10 minutes give us an idea of how difficult of a wave Hookipa is. These are the shots, starting from a kick out to avoid the closeout.

Going down in the drop.

Rejected by the wind.

The windsurfers can count on the extra speed/help from the sail and that's why Hookipa is a much better wave for windsurfing. Photo by Jimmie Hepp from this gallery.

5am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, despite those promising fetches a week ago. Below is a pretty eloquent shot of the Ala Moana webcam. Here's the usual invite to the Lahaina ocean front business/home owners to check the Ozolio website for the opportunity to host a webcam that would greatly help all the Maui surfers.

North shore
10.8ft @ 16s from 333° (NNW)
7.7ft @ 18s from 324° (NW)
5.6ft @ 18s from 332° (NNW)
4.6ft @ 18s from 327° (NW)
3.8ft @ 9s from 63° (ENE)
3.7ft @ 7s from 75° (ENE)
2.5ft @ 11s from 341° (NNW)
New long period extra large swell came up nicely during the night, although much lower than the Surfline forecast that was calling for 7f 20s at this time of the day (and 14.6f 18s around noon!). Below is a print screen showing a large set at windy Hookipa and another at less windy (and more offshore) Pipeline. The contest has been called on with start at 8am.

Wind map at noon.
Strong and complex fetches keep following each other in the North Pacific.
A moderate south fetch in the South Pacific.
Morning sky.

Saturday, December 15, 2018

6.30am hookipa is head to head and a half with some wind.

Saturday 12 15 18 morning call

A longboard, a windsurf and two shortboard sessions for me yesterday to celebrate a day characterized by sunshine and an incredible light. The Haleakala looked amazing from the ocean. All the session where within 1 mile from my house and that was nice. Last summer was fantastic, but I still like winter better. Here's some gopro shots that show those colors.

The wind got lighter for about 40 minutes around 2pm and Middles looked pretty good. Of course, by the time I paddled out, it started blowing 25 again, but I still enjoyed the challenge (and the view).

Leaving Hookipa, I quickly took a photo of the windsurfing action mostly to show the size of the waves. Vicky.

The sky was still completely clear of clouds all the way to sunset.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys.

North shore
4.6ft @ 12s from 346° (NNW)

5.9ft @ 13s from 331° (NNW)            
0.2ft @ 20s from 30° (NNE)
4.8ft @ 13s from 338° (NNW)
5.2ft @ 13s from 331° (NNW)
3.9ft @ 10s from 27° (NNE)
3.5ft @ 7s from 77° (ENE)
2.3ft @ 11s from 344° (NNW)
The NW pulse that arrived yesterday brought some lovely 15s sets in the lineups. Today it's down to 13s, but 5.2f is still a very fun size, It's going to stay pretty steady all day, eventually losing a second in the period towards the end of the day. Let me point out the fact that Hanalei feels a sliver of 20s energy. As we have learned, whatever the real cause is (buoy or Surfline's algorithm), the direction indication can be totally wrong in these cases. That might hence be a sign of forerunning energy of the next extra-large swell that is predicted for Sunday/Monday. No sign of it at the NW buoy yet, so it's hard to predict the arrival time in Maui, but I'm going to say that not much should be seen locally today. Eventually some small sets at sunset. That is confirmed by the Surfline forecast (link n. 15) that sees the swell picking up during the night.

Wind map at noon.

North Pacific has a new born low that has a WNW fetch. The older, much stronger one north of us is now almost entirely aiming at the Mainland west coast. They're having a pretty good winter over there too.

Nothing from the south.

Morning sky.

Friday, December 14, 2018

7am hookipa has head to occasionally head and a half mixed up waves with poor conditions.

Friday 12 14 18 morning call

A longboard session for me yesterday, Honolua was really good. Brother Luke attacking the lip.

Good foot placement on that Sharp Eye.

60 and a hip replacement, Kenny still got game.

 He missed the barrel on this one though. Would have been the wave of the day.

At one point, after a big set, I saw a giant white fish underwater.

Here's when I almost decided to warn the surfers that an albino shark was in the lineup.

The weird thing is that it was always in the same spot, although it was somehow moving and changing its orientation. Looks like a giant squid now.
After a while we saw a guy coming out of the water with half a board and we figured it was the front of it somehow stuck on the reef, most likely anchored by the fiberglass sheet so that the body of it could still oscillate underwater. I was ready to take the gopro with me and take an underwater photo (would have been a hell of a shot!), but the next big set made it disappeared.
Later during my session I saw the half a board on the rocks and the someone retrieving it.

You can imagine my surprise when I later saw it at the shop when I went for my afternoon shift. I was a Hi-Tech rental. The fiberglass sheet theory proved to be correct. Next big set torn it off. Maybe it's still down there. Seriously, how many times have you seen something like that?

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of significant southerly energy at the buoys. Yesterday was flat. I kind of knew that, but I agreed to meet my foiling student in Lahaina nonetheless, because I had a good backup plan...
Ala Moana doesn't look particularly promising. Ozolio is still looking for Lahaina ocean front business owners that would be of great help for the Maui surfers.

North shore
6.3ft @ 10s from 87° (E)
5.3ft @ 12s from 346° (NNW)

4.7ft @ 8s from 61° (ENE)
4.4ft @ 9s from 60° (ENE)
4.3ft @ 13s from 322° (NW)

5ft @ 7s from 38° (NE)
3.4ft @ 13s from 327° (NW)
2.4ft @ 10s from 336° (NNW)
5.5ft @ 9s from 72° (ENE)
4.7ft @ 7s from 54° (ENE)
3.4ft @ 11s from 337° (NNW)
2.7ft @ 13s from 332° (NNW)
NW energy went down as predicted and veered a bit to the NNW. With a still significant windswell, Hookipa should still be at least head high this morning, but the problem, once again, will be the wind.
The waves should pick up again during the day, since there's a new pulse that has hit the NW buoy already (red circle in the graph below). Here's how Pat Caldwell (link n. 9) describes the fetch that generated it (3-6 hours of travel time in average between Oahu and Maui, 5.4h more precisely for 12s, as indicated in the epic post Buoys to Maui travel times and Maui's shadow lines ):
A zonal jet stream across the N Pacific 12/8-13 has been steering surface low pressure systems rapidly east from the Kuril Islands to the Gulf of Alaska. This is making for back-to-back events with a local wave directional spread overlapping from WNW to N.
NOAA NW Hawaii buoys 51001 and 51101 to noon Thursday 12/13 shows the dominant wave period shifted down within 11-13 seconds. This event was generated by one of the fast-moving lows south of the Aleutians 12/8-10. It is expected to fade as a new event fills in early Friday.
The next low in the series was mostly marginal gale from the Kuril Islands 12/10 to east of the Date Line 12/11. As the system approached the longitude of Hawaii 12/12, it intensified as a front brought near gales towards the SE crossing 35N. This batch of seas was aimed higher NE of Hawaii, but close enough to expect a continuation of seasonal surf on Friday. It should be dominant from 330-360 degrees though lower energy added within 310-330 degrees. It should peak mid Friday and slowly drop into Saturday as a new event fills in late in the day.

Wind map at noon.

North Pacific has a very strong fetch that is mostly oriented towards the Mainland's west coast. The tail of it is still oriented towards us (although weaker) and we might get some angular spreading from the stronger part thanks to the angular spreading and vicinity. Here's Pat Caldwell again:
The next low pressure system in the series gained hurricane-force rapidly late 12/12 east of Hokkaido, Japan. The system is racing east under the zonal jet. It was a broad low pressure system with central pressure to 964 mb near 45N, 175E, or about 2000 nm away from Hawaii Thursday morning 12/13. ASCAT satellite readings Thursday morning validated the hurricane force speeds. The JASON altimeter at 2018-12-13 at 12Z showed seas to near 35 feet and by 16Z near 40 feet. These are higher than the wave model guidance.
The models show the low pressure continuing a rapid pace east, which is unusually for such a broad, deep low pressure system. Usually such characteristics are associated with occluded lows that slow in track speed.
Models suggest a more west to east aim of the highest swell once east of the Date Line early Friday with the system east of the Hawaii swell window by late Friday. This should reduce the surf potential for Hawaii, though proximity of the highest seas combined swell from angular spreading should bring Hawaii well above average.
Extra-long wave periods of 21-25s are predicted to fill in locally toward sundown Saturday from 305-320 degrees. The event should build rapidly overnight and peak near dawn Sunday from 310-330 degrees near the giant category, meaning higher sets on outer reefs in high refraction zones to at least 40 feet.
The fast track should mean a Christmas tree pattern to the swell height time series with a fast rise and fall. It should drop to marginally extra- large levels by Monday morning from 315-345 degrees and down below average by late Monday.
Another fast and furious low is modelled two-days behind the above... we'll talk about it when we'll see it in the next few days. In the meantime, Surfline predicts 15f 18s from 333 on Sunday. They should move the Pipe contest to Honolua, which has been hot all December and won't stop firing  any time soon.

Nothing from the South.

Morning sky.