Saturday, May 28, 2016

9.30am lahaina side has inconsistent sets up to shoulder high. Clean conditions with just an onshore texture. Choke people everywhere.

5 28 16 morning call

First Lahaina session yesterday was fun. This guy got some board pop out of his pumping action.


Still shoulder high sets.


Second session at Thousand Peaks on the SUP was even more fun.


4am significan buoy readings
Waimea
2.1ft @ 10s from 358° (N)

Pauwela
4.1ft @ 8s from 79° (ENE)

Lanai
2ft @ 15s from 215° (SW)

Barbers
2.4ft @ 14s from 197° (SSW)

2f 10s from N at Waimea would make for small waves on the north shore, but Pauwela seems to only feel the windswell (which won't do much instead at that size and direction). Maybe the northerly energy will show up later, you guys should check the buoys/webcam later in the day to verify that, otherwise I'll call for a pretty flat day at Hookipa, at least to start with.

Lanai and Barbers still reading a couple of feet of southerly energy. The south swell have slow starts but also slow ends, so we'll see that energy for a few more days.
The South Pacific map of 7 days ago (21st) looks pretty good with a part of the fetch west and a part east of New Zealand. You can understand how much better it would be if New Zealand wasn't there, but it is. It would be better also if Kahoolawe wasn't there, but it is.

The reason I'm now posting the maps of 7 days earlier is to give you guys (and me!) an idea of what the fetch generating an eventual south swell looked like. BUT, it doesn't mean that what we're surfing is always coming from that exact moment in time. We know that waves travel at a speed that depends on the period. We also know that waves change their period when they travel. So knowing exactly what day and time a particular wave was generated is impossible.

Also because a wave is not generated in only one moment, of course. If a fetch stays in a favorable position (oriented towards Hawaii) for a few days, the waves that were generated at the back of the fetch will keep building their height as they travel through the fetch.
In other words, those maps are just a ROUGH indication of how the fetch looked like.
Much more important is what the buoys read and I can live with 2f 15s, so this morning I'm going again Lahaina side (and I work in the afternoon again). Expect reports later in the day.


The wind should be pretty light island wide. This is the noon map.


North Pacific totally dead other than a weak windswell fetch.


South Pacific not offering much either. Those two fetches are not well oriented/situated.

Friday, May 27, 2016

9.30am lahaina side has inconsistent sets up to shoulder high. Clean conditions everywhere.

6am Hookipa was flat, lahaina side knee to chest high. Overall it seemed less energy than yesterday. I'll be more precise in the update after my session. Clean conditions everywhere.

5 27 16 morning call

Double Lahaina session for me yesterday, the morning one beating the afternoon post work one by far. It's hard to surf the same break with onshore conditions when in the morning you had it pristine. I quickly took the photo below at Oluwalu to show the clean conditions around 8. The start of the swell was probably the best part of it.


3am significan buoy readings.

Waimea          
0.5ft @ 12s from 283° (WNW)
0.5ft @ 18s from 266° (W)

Pauwela
3.2ft @ 7s from 75° (ENE)

Lanai
1.7ft @ 18s from 213° (SW)
1.5ft @ 13s from 195° (SSW)

Barbers
1.7ft @ 17s from 217° (SW)
1.3ft @ 12s from 189° (S)

A hint of energy from the west at the Waimea buoy, but from that direction we shouldn't get anything. Pauwela only has marginal windswell, so Hookipa will be mostly flat today.
Lanai and Barbers reading long period energy from the SW and shorter period smaller size from the south. That's the reflection of the wind map of 7 days ago (20th) below that shows the two generating fetches. I'd rather have only one swell in the water, but the second smaller one might add a bit of consistency. I'm going Lahaina side again and I work in the afternoon, expect reports later in the morning.
Easterly wind at noon.


North Pacific only offering a weak windswell fetch.


South Pacific hanging in there with a couple of fetches to keep the flatness at bay.


Thursday, May 26, 2016

8.30am lahaina has inconsistent long period sets of various sizes. I've seen a head high one.
Clean conditions.

5.30am lahaina side looked pretty small in the darkness. That makes sense since the old swell is on the decline and the new one will take all day to fill in. I did see a couple of lines though, so stay tuned for an update after my session.

5 26 16 morning call

I was in the water at dawn in Lahaina yesterday and between 6 and 6.30 there was a moment with perfect wind (very light offshore), tide, size and direction. The combination of that made for some of the most beautiful belly high waves I've ever seen. Fortunately I didn't have the gopro with me, because a photo would have not been able to render the perfection and the beauty. There was not a single drop of water out of place.

Maybe I under called the size a bit (I like to stay on the conservative side on my calls), there were occasional shoulder high sets, and the conditions stayed pristine for most of the morning.

After my session, I taught a SUP lesson, then took a nap and then went out again at another break. A moderate SW wind picked up (island wide, I heard) and that kicked everybody out but me. There's always something positive out of everything.

Including the lesson, I spent a total of 6 hours in the water. It was a good day. I don't have any pictures, so I'm linking this Surfline feature that shows some perfect Indonesian waves.

In the past couple of days, I posted the 7 days old South Pacific wind map (if you guys don't remember them, just scroll down to those posts). Those maps showed a decent fetch Tuesday and a much weaker one Wednesday. So why was yesterday bigger than the day before?
Because the waves had 13s period. The fetch was 4,100 nm away and 13s waves take 8 days to get here. That's why Wednesday was bigger than Tuesday.

3am significant buoy readings.

Pauwela
3.6ft @ 8s from 72° (ENE)

Lanai
1.9ft @ 13s from 191° (SSW)

Barbers
2.2ft @ 13s from 199° (SSW)                      
0.6ft @ 20s from 218° (SW)
 
Here's what Pat Caldwell says about the new SW swell we're forecasted to start seeing today:"
A storm-force low pressure tracked NE in the Tasman sea 5/19-20 with seas building above 40 feet west of New Zealand. Gales behind a front pushed into the sub-tropics, and fresh to strong breezes well into the tropics 5/21-22.
The pacioos/cdip american samoa buoy showed a steady rise 5/23 from both the long-period remote swell of 14-22 seconds and the closer post-frontal, shorter-period swell of 10-14 seconds. The time series of swell height, summed up for all wave periods greater than 10 seconds, had a Christmas tree signature centered on Monday night with peak heights to 7 feet. The heights and dominant wave periods have steadily dropped 5/24-25.
Surf in Hawaii from Tasman sources rarely surpasses the seasonal average, except for cases such as this where the source winds of high magnitude push further northward. For the highest Tasman events in Hawaii, the heights fall into a bracket just a notch above the average for top exposures. The Tasman direction has limited surf potential and large error bars on the local surf estimate due to shadowing by SW Pacific islands.
Long period swell of 17-22 seconds is expected to fill in locally overnight Wednesday through Thursday. Inconsistent arrival of the largest sets is typical during the onset stage. The event should be filled in by Friday when it is predicted to peak from 200-220 degrees. It should drop near the seasonal average by Saturday morning, and steadily drop below average into Sunday. Background tiny to small breakers from 208-220 degrees could linger on Monday 5/30. "


Below is the South Pacific map of 7 days ago, showing the start of the strong Tasman sea fetch that generated those 40 feet seas. It's gonna get closer to us the day after, but we'll analyze that tomorrow.
In the meantime, I'll base my call on the buoy readings. Still a couple of feet 13s at Lanai from the east of New Zealand fetch of the 17-18th, and that's exactly what was in the water yesterday. And Barbers feels the forerunners of the south west swell with a promising 0.6ft @ 20s from 218° (SW).
The onset of the new swell will be painfully slow as usual, but Lahaina is the spot again for today, also considering that the windswell on the north shore has gone down to minimal levels.
I'm going early again, expect a report later.


Wind will be coming from a quite offshore direction.



Wind map doesn't show any significant fetch.


South Pacific either. Bad day of wave generation for Hawaii.