Friday, April 17, 2015

Still overhead

4 17 15 morning call

Report from yesterday starts with a great shot from Jason Hall: Mark Anderson at Honolua Bay on a ruler edge beauty.

This might be a little less ruler edged, and it's definitely not as exciting surfing as Mr. Anderson up there, but I'll take a session like this by myself over a session at the Bay with 50 guys out any time.
This was actually 2 days ago and I timed this session perfectly. When I paddled in, flocks of cars were pulling in the parking lot.
Btw, unless you're good, surf photos are often disappointing. That felt like Parko's floater in round 5 at Bells when I did it...

Sorry, another photo from two days ago a little later in the morning. Dedicated to my physical therapist Erika Fabian: sorry if I ruined some of your work on my finger because of that quick session, dear. I hope you can tell that I had fun at least!

Lots of uninteresting stuff today before getting to the call, but I have messages to the world of undelayable importance.
As I say often, I question everything. The thing I questioned yesterday is the tail block on the foot pad you stick on a surfboard, so I cut it off the one I bought for my new board.
That's how it looks without it. Please also notice the double loop leash cord I do instead of the classic "kite style" one. Two loops are better than one and because it can freely move around the plug pin, it will last a lot longer.

Here's how it would have looked with the tail block. Does it look like the China wall for the water flowing on top of the board or what? I know, good surfers like the block because when they feel the foot against it they know the foot is in the right place and they like to jam it against it.
But at my level, I never really hit it. And those few times that I do, it feels more like a distraction than everything.

That's a better look at the sleek look of my new baby. Just imagine the water flowing on top of the submerged tail when you're paddling. Even just the pad itself must do some kind of disruption.
As soon as I put it on, I realized that that board is going to live in Indo where I only surf with booties, so I could have actually not put a pad at all... but I'll use it to see if it makes any difference.

The main message here is not to do the same to your next back foot pad. The message is to use your brain and think original. Not necessarily different, but original.
The lack of original thought is something that I find quite depressing in this "all want to be like the other ones" society. And the people that want to look/think different just for the sake of it are even more depressing.
Question everything and do what makes sense for you. It you make a mistake, at least you will have learned on your own and you might have learned something else in the meantime.
Enough of that, buoys next.


They're all going down, so expect less size than yesterday. Still, we're gonna be dreaming of 4.6ft @ 13s from 330° any time soon.

Actually, I take that back immediately. Look at how lovely the fetch of the new storm looks like. Swell scheduled for Sunday on the tail end of the current one.
The fetch down south has moved east, but it's still sending us something. Next week good waves all week on the south shore.
The only thing that is "bad" on that map is the massive area of ENE trades that we are submerged in.
Oh well, I moved to Maui because of the trades, so I can't really hate them can I?

 Well, trades or not trades, enjoy your day because it's gonna be stunning. Check this other image!


Thursday, April 16, 2015

Head and a half to occasionally double with a little wind

4 16 15 morning call

The swell arrived and it didn't disappoint in terms of size. This is a wave at Hookipa ridden by Kauli Seadi and photographed by Jimmie Hepp.

I had a little sailing session myself (after a fun morning surf session at a neighborhood spot by myself), and then took some pics. Timo Mullen flies high.

And Browsinho turned a backloop into some kind of shove it.
 My photo shoot didn't last long because I had to pick up a new surfboard at the Kazuma factory. As I posted on facebook, the time it took me from when I found out that Korean Air doesn't charge for boards anymore and the moment I sent Matt a message to order it was about 30 seconds...|
I got 2 boards in Bali already, but 4 is better. Still testing boards like a madman to select the other one. The one in the photo is a sure one, since I had one like that already and loved it in Indo. 6.6x19.25x2.5x31l, got to love the computer and cutting machine.


 The three buoys are all still midly going up, but I can't remember what caused that turn to the west I put an arrow on. Whatever it was, that's not good for Maui. Kanaha already was pretty small, because of the west direction. Oh well, if not today, tomorrow is gonna go more north and hit over there too.
I admit I failed at calling an epic sunset sailing session. Didn't check Hookipa (which I'm sure had surfers), but it was pretty shitty everywhere else.

To the left, Hanalei has the biggest number and still going up. 8f vs 4f in Maui. That tells you how much energy we lose for refraction when it comes from the west.
To the right, the Samoa buoy shows the signs of Monday south swell. Looks good.

MC2km at 2pm shows wind.

Wind maps shows fetchs.

I show signs of impatience. it's 6.20am and I'm still not ready to go surf. Sorry, not reviewing this one.

Wednesday, April 15, 2015

Occasional logo to mast high sets at 12.30 and the photoshoot guys are going off

Occasional overhead sets of the swell, but windy and blown out.

15 4 15 morning call

A seal with her puppy is a bit of a rare sight. They showed up at sunset at Hookipa yesterday.
I'll stick to nature shots, since the lack of conditions persists.

I'm assuming everybody is waiting for the new NW swell, so let's jump straight into the buoys.
Below the graphs of the NW and Wailea buoys. I circled the rise at the first one: it went from 1 to 5 feet from 6pm yesterday to 6am this morning. Period started extra long, so I'll give this start of the swell 12h to get to Maui. As a matter of fact, Waimea saw some 25s reading already during the night (I underlined it) and the Pauwela buoy is registering 1.1ft @ 22s from 333° (NNW) at 6am.
These are the other swells hitting it, so you can imagine how unclean the whole thing will be, specially considering that the trade wind will be on it too:
5.6ft @ 8s from 65° (ENE)
3.4ft @ 6s from 61° (ENE)
1.9ft @ 12s from 342° (NNW)

For all the above reasons, I'm not excited a bit and didn't even go surf this early morning. Will wait and see if it gets big enough for the west side later on or if it gets good for windsurfing at sunset.

The Lanai buoy reads:
1.6ft @ 6s from 179° (S)
1.1ft @ 9s from 186° (S)
0.9ft @ 14s from 200° (SSW)
0.8ft @ 3s from 179° (S)
1f 14s is very minimal energy and in fact the lahaina cam shows that. But there might be something slightly better tomorrow. This is the graph I saved yesterday of the Samoa buoy in fact. I circled some nice 2-3f 15s readings on Sunday. Hopefully that'll translate into 0.5-1f 20s locally tomorrow.
It's a relatively new buoy, so I'm still learning the travel times and the energy dissipation factors. You guys learning with me. You're welcome.


Wind map shows a new NW fetch (moderate NW swell Sunday Monday) and the fetch down under that assumed a weird shape. That doesn't matter, as long as it's shooting towards us, it can be any shape it wants.

Once again the MC2km map at noon shows some wind.


Tuesday, April 14, 2015

Shoulder to head high peaks and not too windy in this moment.

14 4 15 morning call



No photos from yesterday. Sign of the times, since there's no good conditions.
I'll steal the photo that Jason Hall just posted on his facebook instead. That's this morning's sunrise that I admired while having breakfast instead. Not in any hurry to go surf, since it's the usual blown out windswell mix.

Buoys at 5am
5.2ft @ 8s from 68° (ENE)
2.2ft @ 13s from 153° (SSE)
1.8ft @ 7s from 64° (ENE)
1.5ft @ 5s from 68° (ENE)

4.5ft @ 7s from 36° (NE)           
2.7ft @ 11s from 329° (NW)
1.1ft @ 4s from 38° (NE)

6.4ft @ 7s from 54° (ENE)
3.2ft @ 11s from 344° (NNW)

1.4ft @ 7s from 180° (S)           
1.4ft @ 12s from 201° (SSW)
0.6ft @ 9s from 182° (S)

Actually 3f 11s are not bad at all, the problem is wind and windswell. Ok, ok, I'll go surf this morning too... it always feel good afterward, thanks to the physical exercise (which you pretty much don't get when windsurfing). That's probably the angular spreading of that fetch that was shooting to north America and that's why Maui has the highest reading between the three main buoys.
Not too stoked of how the NW fetch generating Wednesday's swell is evolving. Already shooting most of its energy towards north America. Some waves are still pushed our way today, tomorrow it might be down to angular spreading again. But hey, better than the nothingness we've had lately.

Surfing wise, I'm actually way more excited about the south swell. It's easier to find shelter from the trades on the south shore (the NW swell will be good for windsurfing since it's gonna be windy).
As predicted, the fetch down under went right over New Zealand and now is shooting perfectly at us. Let's hope it stays there as long as possible.

For a change, MC2km map at 1pm shows wind.