Saturday, November 22, 2014

Occasional chest to head high sets. Wind is light now, but enough to bother a bit.

11 22 14 morning call

4am main swell buoy readings:

Maui north shore (indicative of what's in the water on Maui's north shore)
3.7ft @ 9s from 85° (E)
3.4ft @ 11s from 322° (NW)

West lanai Maui north shore (indicative of what's in the water on Maui's south shore)
1.7ft @ 13s from 210° (SSW)
Pretty much the third very similar day in a row. Strong and gusty easterly wind with a background of 3-4f of swell from the NW.

Here's the graph of the Maui buoy that confirms that. What you want to look at is the light blue line
(the dark blue one is a windswell). So the call this morning is easy: it's gonna be just like the past couple of days!


Things are about to change though, both on the waves and wind sides.
New NW swell will arrive tomorrow (Sunday) and surfline is calling for 5f 14 from 333 at 8am, gradually increasing to 6.5 in the evening, 7 tomorrow and even 9 on Tuesday. Remember? We followed the evolution of the fetch in the past morning calls...

The wind is going to be favorable for surfing only tomorrow though (and I bet they'll run the contest at Honolua). Maybe also Monday morning, before turning straight North and ruining everything everywhere: stay tuned for that call.
Oh, yesterday I forgot to specify that the Hi-Tech Surf Bash contest is this morning at Pavils.

Have fun in the sun everyone!

Friday, November 21, 2014

Not too windy yet, looks like fun.

11 21 14 morning call

4am main swell buoy readings:

Maui north shore (indicative of what's in the water on Maui's north shore)
5ft @ 8s from 77° (ENE)
3.9ft @ 11s from 332° (NNW)

West lanai Maui north shore (indicative of what's in the water on Maui's south shore)
1.7ft @ 13s from 253° (WSW)
Well, as usual 4f 11s would be pretty fun to surf at Hookipa if it wasn't for the 5f windswell and the active wind on it, but it's Maui and that is the norm.
We got spoiled last weekend (and most of last winter!) by the light Kona wind.
So no bitching around and go get them!

Below is the wind map of this morning.
You can see a humongous fetch that will send humongous waves to the Oregon coast.
Unfortunately, that region is at a latitude where two dreadful things happen:
- the fetch often reaches the coast and it's onshore wind
- the water temperature is freezing.
A little luckier are California and Baja that will get the angular spreading of it, but the water is still too cold for my likes.
That's what I need to think later on while surfing the Maui windswell brutalized waves: at least it's warm!

Three surf contests about to happen in Maui:
- the final ASP Women contest at Honolua Bay (nov22 - dec 6)
- Hi-Tech Surf Bash at Pavillions
- the annual Paia Bay invitational (organized by some friends of mine and always a lot of fun to compete in) on Thanksgiving day.

Here's a bit of the surfline forecast, from which I'm gonna guess that they won't run the first couple of days of the ladies' contest and they will start on Sunday. Monday will have waves, but the wind will be very unfavorable, so a local call will be necessary. The wind will get a little better on Tuesday, but still far from ideal, so it's on Wednesday, Thursday, Friday that I see the best window of opportunity.
6f, 12s from the north will be on tap for Thursday (which is good news for the PBI also!), but that is a closely generated one and will not be picture perfect Honolua bay, that's for sure.
A couple of good additional days will be on Dec 2-3, with 8f, 12s from NNW to finish it off.

Of course I'll keep you guys posted, now let's go catch those 4f we have in the water.
Have fun in the sun everyone!

Thursday, November 20, 2014

Pretty ugly overall, but once in a while a nice set rolls in.
Only a handful of guys at pavils.

11 20 morning call

4am main swell buoy readings:

Maui north shore (indicative of what's in the water on Maui's north shore)
7.2ft @ 8s from 69° (ENE)
2.7ft @ 13s from 332° (NNW)
1.9ft @ 4s from 76° (ENE)

West lanai Maui north shore (indicative of what's in the water on Maui's south shore)
1.5ft @ 14s from 218° (SW)
1.1ft @ 8s from 179° (S)
0.8ft @ 5s from 174° (S)
Another strong easterly gusty wind day, but with a tad of NNW swell. That's almost more frustrating actually because you see how a lovely groundswell can be annihilated by 7f of windswell travelling across it, but it's definitely better than nothing.

Hang in there guys, Sunday and Monday should be two very good days of surfing thanks to a NW swell that surfline is calling 7-8f 14s and no wind. That swell will be courtesy of the fetch that I circled in red in today's wind map. As you can see, it's long, wide and it has been there for quite a few days (check yesterday's weather map in yesterday's morning call), all things that contribute to the grow of the seas.
If the wind was stronger and the fetch captured (a fetch that moves in the same direction of the swell it generates and keeps building the same seas), we would have a giant swell... but fortunately (I don't surf Jaws) we won't!

Have fun in the sun everyone! Whenever it comes out between squalls of this pretty ugly strong trades weather!

Wednesday, November 19, 2014

Courtesy of strong trades, hookipa looks pretty ugly this morning...

11 19 14 morning call

4am main swell buoy readings:

Maui north shore (indicative of what's in the water on Maui's north shore)
5.2ft @ 7s from 50° (NE)
4.5ft @ 9s from 356° (N)
2.8ft @ 11s from 348° (NNW)

West lanai (indicative of what's in the water on Maui's south shore)
1.2ft @ 15s from 216° (SW)
1.2ft @ 3s from 23° (NNE)
0.8ft @ 9s from 299° (WNW)
0.7ft @ 11s from 307° (WNW)
As you can see from the buoy reading (I had to add some explanation about the two main buoys that I always use, because some readers have absolutely no clue of where they are and how to read them), there's not really much on offer today. At least nothing clean. Also because the wind is going to be blowing pretty hard today, as the parallel isobars over the islands indicate in the weather map below.

Strong trade wind brings frequent squalls (that make the wind go up and down) and increases the windswell and the chop on the waves.
In other words, I pretty much hate it.
And since I'm off, I'm gonna try to escape it possibly spending my day on a leeward side. But when the wind is this strong, it screws up the weather also there. I mean, look at the wind map at 8am!
Only Kihei will have some morning calmness.
Mmm... maybe a downwinder on a standup could be fun...

Whatever you choose to do, have fun in the sun everyone!

Tuesday, November 18, 2014

Park is closed, waves are overhead and not clean, wind is around 5-10 and it's probably going to be the most uncrowded surf i ever had at hookipa...

11 18 14 morning call

4am main swell buoy readings:

Maui north shore
6.2ft @ 13s from 340° (NNW)           
5.7ft @ 10s from 344° (NNW)
2.9ft @ 6s from 20° (NNE)

West lanai
1.3ft @ 13s from 305° (WNW)           
1.2ft @ 10s from 277° (W)
1.1ft @ 4s from 170° (S)
0.7ft @ 18s from 215° (SW)

Sorry, but I do have to brag about yesterday's call. I wrote that the new swell was going to have a "steep climb around noon" and below is the graph of of the Maui buoy...

Which also tells us that there's still waves to be ridden. Not ideal weather for surfing (with the exception of Honolua Bay, of course), but windsurfers and kiters are going to be stoked all week.
After today, in fact, the waves will remain in the 4 feet range and the trade winds will be blowing pretty strong (particularly tomorrow).
A new bigger NW swell slotted for Sunday, with hopefully a lot less wind, but the week after that looks pretty horrible from the wind point of view. Which, you might want to remember this, in my case means strong wind. Too early to bitch about it now though.

The Lanai buoy is registering 0.7ft @ 18s from 215° (SW) in case you want to get out of the wind and go surf Lahaina.
And in case you're wondering where is that coming from, here's the weather map of 7 days ago.
I circled in red the fetch in the Tasman sea, just east of New Zealand, that generated a big (I'm sure) swell for Fiji. We're just getting the leftovers...

Have fun in the sun everyone!