Wednesday, October 17, 2018

6.30am ukumehame still has waist high sets between flat spells and clean conditions.

Wednesday 10 17 18 morning call

A longboard and a shortboard session for me yesterday. Didn't take any photo and surprisingly didn't find any on facebook (this swell isn't that pretty to photograph), so here's a photo from the Mentawais by Liquid Barrel.


4am significant buoy readings
South shore
The NW swell is so big that all the buoys are "overwhelmed" with its energy and can't register any from the south. But we know that south swells don't disappear in one day. Yesterday there were still some chest high sets (for the 8th day in a row), and for today Surfline still calls for 2.4f 14s. It might finally start to get a bit smaller, but there still should be some waves.

North shore
NW101
9.7ft @ 14s from 344° (NNW)

Hanalei
8ft @ 15s from 329° (NW)

Waimea
6.3ft @ 15s from 328° (NW)

Pauwela
8.6ft @ 17s from 329° (NW)

Waimea has been constantly 2f smaller than Pauwela all day yesterday and I don't know how to explain that other with the need for a machine calibration on either one. It doesn't matter too much in the case of this swell, because it's big enough not to require precise buoy readings. Hookipa was often closing out channels yesterday at sunset, yet some surfers were out at Middles and a search with the firemen helicopter had me wonder what happened. Didn't find any news about it. Anyway, big waves everywhere on the north shore also today, as confirmed by the graphs of NW101, Waimea and Pauwela below.


Wind map at noon.


North Pacific still has a decent fetch oriented towards us. Unfortunately the great circle rays maps are down today, but that is a good one for the Bay, imo.


South Pacific has another monster fetch S of New Zealand aiming at Central America of which we should get plenty angular spreading.


Morning sky.

Tuesday, October 16, 2018

9am ukumehame has thigh to waist high waves with occasional bigger sets. Light onshore

8am hookipa has a mix of swells, but the long period lines are already predominant in the head to head and a half range. Light trades.
5

Tuesday 10 15 18 morning call

Two longboard and a shortboard session for me yesterday. Here's some photos to show the conditions of all of them.
The first one was business related. The moment after the "UP!" yell.


The only business I had to do in the second one was to try out a gorgeous 6.0 Sharp Eye Disco Inferno that we lately put in the rental fleet at Hi-Tech. I can tell you it goes through the lip beautifully. Really fun and loose board, I might have to get one.


I made two new friends in that session. Here's brother Chris on a screamer.


Here's the ever so lovely Simonet.


At the end of that session I learned that the Saturday I had lost a friend in a tragic accident. On my way back, this spot looked gorgeous in the sunset light and I had to stop and paddle out and catch one wave for her.
One of my favorite chapters of my favorite book "The untethered soul" ends like this:
Live your life as though you were on the verge of death, because you are.


The sunset was remarkable. Photo by Jimmie Hepp.


6am significant buoy readings
W
2.6ft @ 14s from 173° (S)

SW
2.6ft @ 14s from 181° (S)

SE
2.9ft @ 14s from 170° (S)

Barbers
2.8ft @ 15s from 184° (S)

Lanai
2ft @ 15s from 188° (S)

Day 8 of decent numbers at the buoys. Itx should be smaller (and probably slower) than yesterday, but still in the waist high range with occasional bigger sets. Having a late start, not sure if and what time I'll go. But with waves like this in the Ala Moana webcam, it's hard to resist. Plus I still have the Sharp Eye to test.


North shore
NW101
6.3ft @ 19s from 338° (NNW)

Hanalei
4.4ft @ 20s from 334° (NNW)

Waimea
1.9ft @ 20s from 330° (NW)

Pauwela
3.7ft @ 8s from 356° (N)
2.5ft @ 11s from 354° (N)
1.7ft @ 20s from 320° (NW)
 
Impressive numbers at the buoy, this swell won't disappoint. The most surprising thing is the direction of 338 at the NNW, I would have expected a more westerly start, based on the analysis of the fetches maps I did yesterday and the day before. I guess the WW3 model knows better than me.
Below is the graph of NW101, Hanalei and Pauwela. Expect a steady rise all day with the biggest size at sunset.
 
The webcams below show plenty lines at Sunset Beach and some decent white water at Hookipa too already. I'll probably report from there later in the morning (8-9ish).

The usual wind model page is not working today, here's the two models at the bottom of the windguru page. If I look at the weather map, I'd say no chance of sailable wind, but you never know in Maui...


The NW fetch has turned more east, but it still has a section oriented towards us. This swell should last all week.


Hawaii is where the red H is, it slid off the map as I had to move it to show you another massive southerly fetch. I'm not sure that the part closest to the South Pole ice is oriented towards us, but the fetch is impressive anyway. Start thinking about the spots that in your opinion will hold the size on the south shore next week.


Morning sky.

Monday, October 15, 2018

8.30am ukumehame is knee high with occasional bigger sets, clean but slow and a bit soft with the high tide. Hookipa had waves, but side on wind and poor conditions.

Monday 10 15 18 morning call

A SUP foiling and a SUP session for me yesterday. Once again the conditions at Thousand Peaks were exceptionally good. Here's brother Eddie with sparks all around, even under his board.


Buttery conditions.


This is an incredible shot by Jason Hall that shows the beauty of the... everything! My early morning session foil session was great, but I couldn't replicate the lines and the feelings of the day before, which was something really special.

Notice the offset placement of the (stick-on) strap inserts, so that the back foot ends up right in the middle of the board. Now imagine a cut back to the right: I would push with the heel and pull my toes against the straps for extra leverage. No straps? No thanks.
When I added the back foot strap, I hated it for 5 sessions. Then it stepped up my game. But we're all different.


As a sign of the good times to come, here's a photo of Cloudbreak posted yesterday on this page.




4am significant buoy readings
South shore
W
2.6ft @ 14s from 192° (SSW)

SW
3ft @ 15s from 159° (SSE)

SE
3.4ft @ 15s from 195° (SSW)

Barbers
3.2ft @ 15s from 190° (S)

Lanai
2.2ft @ 15s from 193° (SSW)

And once again, for the 7th day in a row, we have 3f 15s or more at the buoys. Tomorrow is predicted finally to come down a bit (but not much according to Surfline), but then next week we might have 4f 15s all week! I call this exceptional, as it doesn't happen often. I'm taking it easy this morning, so I'll report whenever I'll get there.

North shore
Pauwela
4.2ft @ 9s from 355° (N)

Still small energy from the north at Pauwela. That'll give Hookipa some breakers, but the wind will be side-onshore. Tomorrow the first long period sets of the big Wednesday swell will start arriving. Nothing at the buoys just yet.

Wind map at noon.


North Pacific has the NW fetch that now has moved east a bit. I circled in red in the great circle rays map on the right the small but intense section of winds that are between 330 and 340. The energy coming out of that, will find its way to Honolua. The much bigger (but also weaker) section circled in black in between 320 and 330 and that most likely won't.

How many directions do you have in the "traditional" wave forecast website of your choice? Obviously only one, 332 in the case of Surfline. But it's never only one. That's the dominant one, there's always a range of directions in every swell (narrow hurricane fetches might be the only exception). Learn to read the weather maps, spot the fetches, remember them when the swell arrives and you'll build your own internal database of info that no app in this world will give you.


Massive fetches down under. The blue one is aimed east of us, but we'll get plenty angular spreading, the couple of red ones are aimed straight at us.


Morning sky.

Sunday, October 14, 2018

6.30am ukumehame is waist high with occasional bigger sets and clean. Hookipa looked small but clean from the distance.

Sunday 10 13 18 morning call

A longboard and a SUP foil session for me yesterday. This photo shows the excellent conditions at Hookipa thanks to the light offshore wind. Plenty barrels on offer.


This is a photo from two days ago when the foiling conditions already improved compared to the previous big day with a lot of water moving, but they were still far from perfect.

Well, they were yesterday. Waist to chest and absolute glass in the light of a gorgeous sunset. It was relatively slow too and the water all around the wave was incredibly still and clear. And the lines that all of the above allowed had some poetry in them, of a kind that I found difficult to rationalize into words. A fellow foiler nailed it:"GP, you looked like you were in peace".

He was right. The intense focus and attention to what's happening required to do those lines (at least with my skills), implied an absolute lack of distracting thoughts. Just the sensation on gliding over an incredibly beautiful expression of nature and being part of it. Foiling can be amazing.


3-4am significant buoy readings
South shore
W
2.2ft @ 12s from 185° (S)
1.9ft @ 15s from 177° (S)

SW
2.5ft @ 13s from 184° (S)

SE
3.6ft @ 14s from 188° (S)

Barbers
2.7ft @ 14s from 191° (SSW)

Lanai
2.7ft @ 14s from 201° (SSW)

Surfline has two overlapping SSW swells of 16 and 14 seconds respectively for today. Only the W buoy feels two different swell, my guess is that the periods are so similar at the other buoys that they put the two energies together. Doesn't particularly matter, those numbers will still provide plenty waves to the south shore today. Mostly likely in the waist high range, but with occasional bigger sets, specially the longer period ones. Lanai's graph below looks pretty steady.


North shore
Pauwela
3.3ft @ 9s from 23° (NNE)

Not much to play with on the north shore and with a down trend (Pauwela graph below), but the early morning should see some calm wind before the onshores will pick up around 10am.


Wind map at noon.

North Pacific has the strong NW fetch that's creating Wednesday big swell. Notice on the great circle ray map on the map that the fetch is between 320 and 330. Somehow, the WW3 model and its Surfline interpretation give us a predicted direction of 332, probably because they think the most energy will be associated with it. Remembering that Honolua has a shadow line of 335, this swell is for sure going to be big enough to wrap around Molokai and hit it, but it's going to be too west to be consistent. An ideal swell for the Bay would have a fetch that sits between 330 and 350. That's why observing the fetches is a key part of knowledge, imo. A part that most forecast sites don't give you.


Check this other example in the South Pacific. An exceptionally long fetch has setup for our delight. On the map on the right I put an arrow to show that it covers a distance that is grossly about 4 days of travel. That means this swell is going to last a long time, starting Saturday 10/20.


Morning sky.

Saturday, October 13, 2018