Tuesday, September 01, 2015

1 9 15 morning call

Beautiful day of surfing yesterday on all shores.
I first surfed the south shore. Waist high perfection like the photo shows.


 



Here's the clip of that wave to show how perfect and rippable it is. That's why I chose to drive instead of surfing the windswell at Hookipa. I also had to test that Pang and I really liked it.



In the afternoon I surfed an easterly exposure and it was already solid head high and very consistent. A lot of work.

On tap today: everything.
Buoys

NW
4.9ft @ 15s from 108° (ESE)
4.7ft @ 11s from 114° (ESE)
4.5ft @ 8s from 62° (ENE)

N
28.2ft @ 10s from 67° (ENE)

Pauwela
9.5ft @ 12s from 69° (ENE)
3ft @ 9s from 55° (ENE)

Barbers
2.3ft @ 13s from 206° (SSW)
1.7ft @ 10s from 206° (SSW)
0.8ft @ 20s from 209° (SSW)

In fact, as Pat Caldwell says, there's a "Trio of tropical cyclones and active southern hemisphere pattern to make for an abundance of above average surf from around the compass."
The wind map shows exactly that, with the addition of a still a wide fetch down south (third day in a row, the swell in the weekend is gonna be good).

 
 
The most impressive reading is the North buoy: 28.2ft @ 10s from 67° (ENE) . That's because it's being hit directly by the hurricane force winds. Here's where Ignacio stands at 6.30am.
 
 

So you can surf north, east and also south. Plenty waves in Lahaina as the webcam shows below.
Good luck with your choice and happy surfing!

Monday, August 31, 2015

Small and poor shape. Lahaina looked beautiful on the webcam

8 31 15 morning call

 

 

 
Afternoon surf session at Hookipa for me proved to be very challenging.
After 2 months of perfect waves in Indo, it's so hard to ride those bumpy waves, but no complains here. We're so lucky to have waves pretty much every day.
It was better on the south shore in the morning, as Jason Hall reported on his facebook page.



Today could be an interesting one.
Here's the latest Ignacio position at 5am HST.



The rain shouldn't impact us directly, but there's moisture in the atmosphere as the radar shows.


Buoys
NW
4.6ft @ 10s from 55° (ENE)
3ft @ 8s from 47° (NE)
3ft @ 6s from 70° (ENE)

N
7.1ft @ 12s from 126° (ESE)
5.8ft @ 8s from 57° (ENE)
3.4ft @ 10s from 108° (ESE)

Pauwela
4.1ft @ 8s from 35° (NE)
3.6ft @ 13s from 97° (E)
3.2ft @ 11s from 83° (E)

W          
4.4ft @ 12s from 171° (S)
2.8ft @ 8s from 45° (NE)

SW           
4ft @ 13s from 53° (ENE)
2.7ft @ 10s from 137° (SE)

Barbers
2.3ft @ 13s from 210° (SSW)
1.6ft @ 12s from 222° (SW)

Waves pretty much from all directions. There's a place on the island that might get both wraps from the west and the east. But I'll check Hookipa first.

Wind map shows the small but very close E fetch from Ignacio and a wide one from the south. Soon we'll get the east swell from the next hurricane too. Forgot to circle the fetch and forgot the name of the hurricane too...
 
Wind should be light onshore. That's on the north shore.

Sunday, August 30, 2015

8 30 15 morning call

Had a great windsurfing session yesterday at sunset. Very light wind and pretty much by myself with a couple of surfers. Loved it.
 

 
Didn't even bother going to check the waves this morning, since I knew the wind was going to be on it. We're gonna have a couple of days of onshores due to the pass of hurricane Ignacio.
Let's first have a look at where it is right now.



This is the wind map. That shows a small but intense east Ignacio fetch and a much larger one down south. Remember, that means a south swell next weekend.


According to the models, Ignacio should pass close enough for plenty rain, but not close enough for strong wind.
This is the map at Tuesday 2pm and it only shows 17 knots of local wind. But just a few hundred miles could make a big difference, so we'll know only when it gets there.


Buoys
5.1ft @ 8s from 37° (NE)
4.2ft @ 13s from 264° (W)
2.4ft @ 6s from 49° (NE)
 
North
6ft @ 11s from 101° (ESE)
3.3ft @ 8s from 24° (NNE)
2.8ft @ 7s from 58° (ENE)
2.2ft @ 9s from 70° (ENE)

Pauwela
4.5ft @ 8s from 26° (NNE)
2.4ft @ 14s from 319° (NW)

Barbers
3.4ft @ 13s from 224° (SW)           
1.5ft @ 5s from 132° (SE)
1.3ft @ 5s from 154° (SSE)
6f 11s from 101 at the North buoy from Ignacio, but that direction will only hit Hana for today.
West swell from Typhoon of Japan still incredibly there and Lahaina still gets waves. Considering how bad the wind is on the north shore, that's where I would go this morning, if I didn't have to work.
 

Winguru table shows the bad wind for the north shore until Wednesday when it's going to switch to Kona.

Saturday, August 29, 2015

8 29 15 morning call

Scored a great session on the south shore yesterday. Only two people and waves like this.



 
It's the first time I witness a west swell that wraps around both the north and the south shore of Maui. Hookipa had waves too, as this photo from Jimmie Hepp with Sarah Hauser clearly shows.



Buoys
NW
5.5ft @ 15s from 281° (WNW)
5.4ft @ 8s from 33° (NE)

Pauwela
3.5ft @ 8s from 12° (NNE)
2.7ft @ 16s from 322° (NW)

Barbers
3.2ft @ 15s from 247° (WSW)
2ft @ 11s from 231° (WSW)

This west swell is incredibly long lasting. It's out of that typhoon that sat offshore Japan for a long while a few days ago. Gonna slowly go more N, but it's still pretty west at the NW buoy.

Couple of fetches also on today's wind map. NW one very weak.
 
Actually there's another larger fetch way south that isn't showing in the above pic. It is in the below one. South swell in a week.
 
Even NOAA knows about it: "Outlook through Friday September 4: the current west-northwest swell will gradually subside through Monday. Surf may reach the high surf warning threshold along east facing shores early next week, but the timing and size of this swell remains uncertain since it depends on the track and strength of hurricane Ignacio as it approaches the islands. An increasing south swell is anticipated to arrive Thursday which could rise significantly Friday. "

Yep, east swell from Ignacio coming up too and they summed it up very well.
That's Ignacio's position right now. Making waves for Hana only at the moment, but it will move more north with a better angle for Maui. Hopefully not too close.
 
 

 

 
 It'll be windy today, but the direction seems a bit onshore.
Went out very early this morning, so the Hookipa report is just below this post. Pretty crowded.
 

Looks smaller than yesterday, but i'm sure there's head high sets. A little bit of wind and the crowd us gonna be massive

Friday, August 28, 2015

8 28 15 morning call

Loving the west swell. This photo is from yesterday morning at Hookipa.
Lahaina side had beautiful waves too.


Buoys
NW
6.3ft @ 16s from 277° (W)
3.8ft @ 8s from 24° (NNE)
 

Pauwela
1.9ft @ 9s from 17° (NNE)
1.7ft @ 14s from 324° (NW)
1.2ft @ 7s from 40° (NE)
1.2ft @ 4s from 91° (E)
 
Barbers
2.8ft @ 13s from 222° (SW)
2.8ft @ 16s from 200° (SSW)
0.5ft @ 10s from 218° (SW)
 
W
4.3ft @ 15s from 238° (WSW)
1.8ft @ 10s from 190° (S)
1.4ft @ 7s from 127° (ESE)
 
Plenty more energy in the water still, that typhoon off Japan really sat stationary.
I hear a set at Hookipa when I got up, but I think I'm going somewhere south.
 
Wind map with a couple of fetches and no local wind, all is good.
 
 

This fellow was under my board.

Thursday, August 27, 2015

Very occasional waist high sets

8 27 15 morning call

Steady west swell on tap for today. If you want to know where it comes from and why, here's a brief extract of Pat Caldwell's discussion:

"Typhoon atsani in the western north Pacific is the primary surf source this week. It has kept steady W swell locally since 8/21. The tropical system slowly moved toward Japan, and given its larger than normal size, was adequate to produce surf for Hawaii."

I surfed 100 peaks and there were occasional head high sets. Those closed out, but sometimes the rights stayed open. I took a clip on a left to show the size, but if there's something gopro clips are not good for, that's showing the size (chest high at the take off). But it does show the cleanness of the conditions so here it is.




Buoys
NW
4.4ft @ 8s from 265° (W)
4.3ft @ 13s from 275° (W)

Pauwela
1.6ft @ 7s from 73° (ENE)
1.3ft @ 14s from 321° (NW)
0.9ft @ 9s from 52° (ENE)
0.7ft @ 11s from 352° (N)

Barbers
2.6ft @ 14s from 193° (SSW)
2.5ft @ 13s from 233° (WSW)
2.1ft @ 8s from 226° (SW)
1.3ft @ 18s from 195° (SSW)

West Hawaii
4.2ft @ 14s from 232° (WSW)
2.5ft @ 8s from 230° (SW)
1.6ft @ 10s from 227° (SW)
 
 

 
4f 14s is a solid swell, some long period sets were starting to show up at Hookipa yesterday at sunset. I'm gonna check that first before eventually drive to Lahaina. Expect a photo report soon.
Here's how Lahaina looks on the webcam. Still plenty energy.

 
 
Couple of fetches in this morning's wind map.

 
Another sunny windless day of great surfing. It feels very good to be back in the water.

Wednesday, August 26, 2015

8 26 15 morning call

 

 
There were waves on the Lahaina and Kihei side yesterday and there will be more waves tomorrow, possible bigger judging from the webcams below.

Those waves were generated by the typhoon off Japan. You can see the 13s at the buoys.
Buoys
NW
4.2ft @ 8s from 196° (SSW)
3.3ft @ 14s from 275° (W)
1.1ft @ 7s from 151° (SSE)

Pauwela
1.8ft @ 8s from 63° (ENE)
1ft @ 13s from 311° (NW)
 
Barbers
3.6ft @ 13s from 229° (SW)
2.6ft @ 7s from 191° (SSW)
1.2ft @ 4s from 162° (SSE)
 
Couple of fetches on today's wind map. 
 
 
 
Next storm still forecasted to stall right on top of the islands around Sept 1st. Stay tuned for updates.
The hurricane to the right should swing north instead and provide plenty waves from the east.
 
 
All these storms will not allow the "normal" trade winds generating high pressure to sit in place hence no trades for another long while, as the windguru table shows below.

 
 
I've been out of the water for 9 days to heal an inflamed cyst, it's finally time to get wet again for me.
I don't know how I managed to stay sane. Maybe I didn't.