Tuesday, December 11, 2018

7am hookipa has a mix of well overhead waves and strong wind.

Tuesday 12 11 18 morning call

A shortboard session for me yesterday. Honolua was much more manageable than yesterday (and a bit slow), but still worth the drive. Specially for this guy. Even if he came from Hana!

Kenny's drive is pretty short, so worth for sure.

Trying to get inside the giant clam.

Trying to... not sure what.

Apparently, Hookipa had moments of epicness, as this gallery from Jimmie Hepp seems to suggest.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys. Below is the collage of the maps of Dec 4,5,6 and 7. I had hopes that a little bit of the energy generated by those fetches would reach us, but both the buoys and Pat Caldwell seem to disagree: various low pressure patterns Downunder 12/4-10 in the Hawaii south swell source zone were either too weak in magnitude, too narrow in fetch, or not aimed at Hawaii.

North shore
8.9ft @ 8s from 87° (E)
3.9ft @ 5s from 79° (ENE)
0.9ft @ 20s from 45° (NE)
7ft @ 8s from 53° (ENE)
5.5ft @ 11s from 335° (NNW)
3.9ft @ 6s from 56° (ENE)
0.9ft @ 22s from 30° (NNE)
7.2ft @ 8s from 35° (NE)
4.4ft @ 11s from 341° (NNW)
8.8ft @ 8s from 48° (NE)
4.8ft @ 11s from 339° (NNW)
NNW energy down to 4.8f 11 locally, while the windswell is solid at almost 9f 8s from 48 (should trend more east soon). Plenty waves on the north shore, but once again the wind will blow them all out. Notice those 22 and 20s readings at Hanalei and NW buoys. They seem to be from the NE, but once again that is incorrect and instead that is the forerunning energy of a new long period NW swell coming from those fetches in the NW corner I outlined in the last few days. IF the NE windswell will turn more east and leave the lineup, they might run Pipe tomorrow/Thursday. But they got two more swells down the line in the waiting period, so they have the luxury to choose. BTW, here's why yesterday I called it a Pipe fetch..

Wind map at noon.
North Pacific still has a fetch in the NW corner. 

South Pacific has a sliver of a S fetch.

Morning sky.

Monday, December 10, 2018

7am honolua has very inconsistent head to head and a half high waves. Consistency might improve on a lower tide. 20 guys, but many more arriving.

Monday 12 10 18 morning call

A windsurf session for me yesterday. After having quickly checked that there was nothing of interest on the blown out north shore, I went to the west side. Here's some photos from Honolua Bay, which was extremely inconsistent size wise. From head high to what you see below.

I obviously didn't paddle out but went for the windsurfing version of it. Jimmie Hepp was there and he posted this gallery from which I picked a few to show how clean the waves were. Took me a while to catch the first one, but it was a good one.


Conditions were extremely tricky, as the wind was very offshore and very light on the inside.

That's what kept the faces so clean.
This is my last one on which I managed to do a couple of turns. Had to come in after it!

On my way to work, I quickly stopped by the harbor to check the contest. Conditions were tricky to say the least. So tricky I probably wouldn't have managed to catch a single wave had I been in a heat.

3-4am significant buoy readings.
South shore.
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys. Ukumehame was pretty flat yesterday, while Puamana seemed to have a bit of wrap from the NNW swell (saw a set from the bypass). But that is probably gone today.

North shore
7.7ft @ 7s from 73° (ENE)
6ft @ 12s from 359° (N)

6.3ft @ 8s from 12° (NNE)
6.1ft @ 14s from 335° (NNW)
5.4ft @ 12s from 330° (NW)
4.4ft @ 9s from 342° (NNW)

6.9ft @ 8s from 28° (NNE)
6.8ft @ 13s from 341° (NNW)
4.7ft @ 11s from 344° (NNW)

8.7ft @ 13s from 343° (NNW)
6.5ft @ 7s from 42° (NE)

The significant 8s energy from the NNE is, together with the blustery wind, what's keeping the Pipe contest on hold. Wednesday/Thursday look much better, but here's the page to check if they run today. As far as our north shore goes, those 8.7f 13s from 343 will still provide plenty big waves slowly declining all day. Conditions are still going to be very stormy because of the NE windswell and the wind. West side still the call for cleaner waves.

Wind map at noon.

North Pacific has a WNW fetch (looks like a Pipe fetch) and a strengthening windswell one.

Not one, but two fetches from the South. Make a mental mark for next weekend.

Morning sky.

Sunday, December 09, 2018

8.30am honolua has sets up to double overhead plus and 30 guys

Sunday 12 9 18 morning call

A SUP foiling session for me yesterday. Here's a photo of 15 year old Jackson Bunch at Honolua one of these past days by Onemorefoto.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys.

North shore
9.6ft @ 15s from 4° (N)
5.8ft @ 8s from 73° (ENE)
3.5ft @ 7s from 57° (ENE)
3ft @ 5s from 53° (ENE)

12.5ft @ 17s from 343° (NNW)
5.7ft @ 7s from 39° (NE)
4.4ft @ 9s from 345° (NNW)

7.4ft @ 18s from 342° (NNW)
5.9ft @ 11s from 332° (NNW)
5ft @ 7s from 30° (NNE)

8.5ft @ 15s from 339° (NNW)
6.5ft @ 7s from 41° (NE)
2.6ft @ 9s from 346° (NNW)
Solid long period NNW energy in the water, but the status of the ocean on the north shore will be an absolute mess due to the other energies of different periods and directions and specially to the strong trades. I could have posted buoy graphs or swell forecasts, but what really counts is the wind, so here's the 10 days Windguru table again.

In an extreme effort of trying to find something good out of it, I'm going to notice that:
1) strong winds always bring rain (specially in winter time), so there might be some short windows of possibly decent conditions after big squalls
2) at least towards mid week it goes easterly, so there might be some spots that will be semi-sheltered
3) there's light at the end of the tunnel/week
4) the next calm day is going to feel like heaven

Wind maps at noon are starting to be quite colorful, better get familiar with these: Orange: 20-25 knots, Purple: 25-30, Red 30-35.

North Pacific has a distant NW fetch. Jet stream is staying high and the mid latitudes are dominated by a high pressure that will slowly move east. I circled in black the area of strong winds inside which we will be immersed pretty much the whole week.

South Pacific has a little fetch NE of New Zealand that could produce something for us. We'll find out in 6 days.

Morning sky.

Saturday, December 08, 2018

Saturday 12 7 18 morning call

A SUP foiling and a windfoiling session for me yesterday. First one was fun as this photo by bruddah Chris shows. It actually shows it only to foilers, who know how much fun it is to ride small imperfect waves like that. If it looks lame to you, I understand. As a surfer and before I started foiling (thanks to Dave Kalama's evident stoke after a session at the same spot), I judged it lame too. But how can you judge something that you don't know at all? Best way I found to describe the foiling feeling is that of a bird gliding in the wind without flapping his wings.

Love the face expression.

After the session, I took some pics of the kids practicing for the upcoming HSA contest that will be held at the harbor Jetty on Sunday. I hope this little cute one will wait another year before entering, because, just like last year, the waves are going to be pretty big.

Don't know this young lady, but her coach did a really good job with the placement of the arms. So good, it deserves a 5 photos sequence.

 Abby's game (arms and everything else) is excellent too.

Stylish kick out with smile on the face after a shared ride with a friend.

Here's the tentative schedule of the contest.

With no windsurfing happening at Hookipa (I think I saw a sail or two on the webcam later in the afternoon), Jimmie Hepp went to shoot the windsurfers at Kanaka. Probably the worse place in Maui where to take photos of windsurfing because of the long distance and lack of elevated points, so I picked this one out of the gallery he posted. Got lucky with the light on that one, Jimmie!

My wave windfoiling session was totally epic. I'm discovering the potential of this new discipline and of a spot I never sailed before. When I finally decided to take the gopro out, I only had energy left for one more wave and of course it happened to be an average one, but what the hell, here's the video anyway. What I do in it could also be called "wind assisted SUP foiling", as it is MUCH more similar to that than to what regular (or freeride) windfoilers do going back and forth on a straight line without using the energy of the wave.
Btw, the more I look at it (specially on the waves), the more I feel like I should learn kitefoiling... god no, there's no more room in my car!

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys.

North shore
6.8ft @ 14s from 343° (NNW)

8.7ft @ 8s from 8° (N)
6.2ft @ 14s from 323° (NW)
4ft @ 12s from 320° (NW)
2.7ft @ 11s from 326° (NW)

6.1ft @ 14s from 326° (NW)
5.3ft @ 9s from 334° (NNW)
4.3ft @ 11s from 327° (NW)

6.3ft @ 13s from 326° (NW)
4.2ft @ 8s from 7° (N)
2ft @ 4s from 60° (ENE)
1.9ft @ 11s from 335° (NNW)

This second Jaws swell is still hanging around at remarkable levels. When I read 6.3f 13s from 326, I immediately know what to expect at each single north shore spot. That's because I've been reading the buoys for many years and comparing the readings with the height of the breakers.
If you check the buoys before you go surf, you'll build your own knowledge base and soon you'll be able to select the spot where to go based on the buoy readings which, since they tell you what's in the water, are much more reliable than the spot specific forecast of any website.

Notice the presence of short period northerly energy at all the buoys. That is the energy coming out of the head of the northerly fetch that is very close to the islands right now (see map below). The longer period one from a bigger distance will show up tomorrow. Surfline's offshore swell forecast (MUCH more reliable than any spot specific one) calls for 12f 15s from 345 at noon. IF that will happen (seems a bit exaggerated based on the fetches I posted, but don't forget I only sample those every 24h), Honolua will be obviously gorgeous, and the kids in the harbor will have plenty excitement. Harbor likes straight north the best, but at that size and period, there should be plenty energy sneaking in.

Below is the forecast I just talked about (link n. 15) for the next three days (that's what you get without subscription). I only look at the graph of the different swells. They make an effort to translate the swells into face height of the waves, but the immediate question is: where? The same swell will produce completely different waves (height and shape and steepness) at Hookipa, Paia bay, Sprecks outer reef, Kanaha, Harbor, Waiehu, Honolua and so on! It seems to me those heights are for Hookipa, but, as I just wrote, I encourage you to just look at the offshore swell and build your own knowledge.

Wind map at noon calls for wave windfoiling again.

North Pacific shows that the fetch north of us is already almost entirely aiming to the east of us. Unlike the current one, Sunday's swell is going to last only for a couple of days.

Not much on offer from the South.

Morning sky.