Tuesday, November 21, 2017

Tuesday 11 21 17 morning call

Shortboard and longboard sessions in the harbor for me yesterday,, both very fun. When the waves are this good, I'd still rather surf.

Between the two sessions I took some photos of the jetty wonder, which I consider the most entertaining wave to watch in Maui. Let's start with a sequence showing surfer Justice Patao setting up a barrel on a double up bomb. Micheal Stuart saw it happening and jumped on his board to celebrate in advance.

Totally shacked.

And rightfully claiming it. Notice Michael underwater still holding his board with his hand.

Michael's turn to get barreled on his wave storm.


The rail digs and that won't allow an exit on this one.

 Some lefts were fun too.

Missed the grab, but the shot is really cool with that colorful board.

This wave is the definition of "double up". That looks like my coworker Keoni Perkins, about to do the second drop.



This longboarder caught a rail and his whole board went underwater, resulting in a fun (to watch) wipeout.

Redemption came soon after.
 
4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the outer buoys. The surfline forecast calls for 1.6f 11s. There should be a 15s small new swell starting tomorrow.
 
North shore
N
10ft @ 12s from 7° (N)
5.2ft @ 10s from 357° (N)
 
Waimea
8.5ft @ 13s from 11° (NNE)
6.3ft @ 9s from 5° (N)
 
Mokapu
8.9ft @ 13s from 11° (NNE)
5ft @ 10s from 3° (N)
 
Solid numbers at the buoys, the higher period component came down a couple of seconds compared to yesterday, the lower period one staying steady instead. Overall, it should be a similar day to yesterday. Light winds in the early morning, but getting onshore throughout the day. Better hit it early.
 
This remarkably extended period of northerly energy will continue, as explained by Pat Caldwell: The Gulf of Alaska source continues to dominate the surf for Hawaii with N to NNE swell as a blocking ridge near the Date Line keeps WNW to NNW surf near nil. More of the same through the week with hints of a change next week.
 
And from what I see in the long term forecast, the WSL ladies should have pretty epic conditions for their last contest of the season at Honolua Bay, which starts Nov. 25.
 
Wind map at noon shows light northerly winds on the north shore. Bit stronger on the west side. 
 
North Pacific shows again a strong northerly fetch. 11.6f 15s from 355 predicted by Surfline on Thursday.
 
South Pacific shows a small and weak southerly fetch.
 
Morning sky with more cold air coming down from the north.
 
 


Monday, November 20, 2017

11am the harbor is going off

Monday 11 20 17 morning call

Double SUP foiling session at the harbor for me yesterday. The wind kept blowing hard and then stopping after the rain, so it was a matter of timing it right.

This is Oahu's Sam Pa'e in a remarkable photo showing the failing tuttle box installation on his foil SUP. I'm having my second SUP board "retro-foiled", hopefully it'll be stronger than that.


This is Zane Schweitzer doing what he does: foiling spots that are not good for normal people because too shallow.


4am significant buoy readings
South shore

No indication of southerly energy at the outer buoys. That is no surprise, seen the strong N energy in the water. The Surfline forecast calls for 1.6f 12s. Plus, the Lahaina/Puamana area will most likely get the wrap from the north.

North shore
N
10.8ft @ 13s from 354° (N)
4.7ft @ 10s from 348° (NNW)
 
Waimea
8.8ft @ 13s from 355° (N)
4.9ft @ 9s from 353° (N)

Mokapu
8.1ft @ 13s from 3° (N)
4.9ft @ 9s from 1° (N)
 
Pretty big numbers at the buoys, Hookipa will be a giant mess, look for sheltered spots. West side going to go off.
 
Wind map at noon shows light NW wind, but the early morning should be glassy/offshore.


Another strong N fetch in the North Pacific. 12f 15s from 356 predicted by Surfline on Thursday.


Nothing from the South Pacific.


Morning sky. More cold air coming down from the north. It's officially sweater as soon as you get out of bed time.

Sunday, November 19, 2017

9am the nw wind is here

7am Hookipa looked big and bad. The harbor has clean small waves with no wind at the moment. Remember, the nw wind is predicted to start blowing between 9 and 10am

Sunday 1 19 17 morning call

A longboard session in Lahaina for me yesterday. This is the only photo of the day I have.


This is the amazing sunset in a photo by Jimmie Hepp.


4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys (probably too much energy from the north), the Surfline forecasts calls for 1.7f 14s from SSW.

North shore
NW001
12.4ft @ 15s from 7° (N)

N
8.6ft @ 14s from 2° (N)

Waimea
5.6ft @ 9s from 360° (N)
4.4ft @ 13s from 348° (NNW)
3.1ft @ 15s from 355° (N)
 
The big numbers at the NW001 buoy show the rise of the new N swell predicted to arrive today. Below is the graph of it (left), together with the graph of Waimea (middle, definitely on the way up) and the Surfline forecast for Maui's north shore. The yellow line on this last one is the new N swell and it's predicted to reach 11f 12s at sunset.

Here's how Pat Caldwell described this swell:The combined remote and nearby generated swell should make a less organized breaker pattern Sunday 11/19 under a moderate onshore winds-- adding chop.
In other words: big, but no clean surf today, unless you find a sheltered spot.

This is the wind map at 10am showing the approach of the moderate NW wind. I linked this model in the GP's meteo website list (link n. -4), you have to adjust the "tau" parameter to change the time. Hawaii time is 10h before the Z time indicated on top of the picture.


This is the mat at noon HST (22Z) and it shows the moderate NW that will blow for the rest of the day. Catch it early, because it's gonna be pretty bad later on. Unfortunately iwindsurf.com already shows 13mph from NW at 6am in Kahului.


North Pacific shows a northerly fetch very close to us.


South Pacific shows a strong fetch oriented towards the Americas of which we should get some angular spreading in a week. 1f 16 on Sunday and 1.5f 15s predicted by Surfline on Sunday and Monday respectively.


Morning sky shows a big band of clouds SE of us. The red arrow indicates the way the air is moving in from the north, so it's gonna get a bit colder.

Saturday, November 18, 2017

6.30pm lahaina side is knee to waist with the occasional bigger sets, but also flat spells. Clean everywhere.

Saturday 11 18 17 morning call

Spectacular day of surfing all over the island yesterday. I had the following four sessions:
1) SUP foiling in the harbor
2) Windfoiling at upper Kanaha .Not enough wind to foil on the way out, but I caught three weird waves and followed the bump foiling all the way to the beach. Another example of conditions that I could have not enjoyed without the foil. As a matter of fact, I was the only one in the water.
3) Noseriding in Lahaina
4) SUP foiling at Ukumehame that was super glassy at sunset and a bit of a 10.

These photos from Tomoko are from the first session. 10 from the Italian judge for grace, elegance and wetsuit.

This is Alan Cadiz who managed to stick this steep drop on the foil. Good to see him out there with his lovely daughter Cloe.

These gopro shots are from session 4. There's a lovely airplane from Alex Aguera's Gofoil airlines under my board. I joined the frequent flyer program.

My friend Nino leaves today. As usual, he made the most of his stay. Till next time.

The most beautiful background in Maui, imo. Pumping my way to charge that incoming section.



Shaper Sean Ordonez is embracing the foil movement too. Of course, why not? Of all people, Sean was always going to get on board and experiment.

 
4am significant buoy readings
South shore

SW
2.6ft @ 13s from 222° (SW)

That's the only southerly energy reading at the outer buoys, but it means that the Tasman Sea swell is still here. Yesterday on the Lahaina side it was knee to waist high, with inconsistent sets in the chest to shoulder high range. As a friend said:"it was worth to sit on the outside and wait, because when they came, they were beautiful". Today it should be more of the same. Stay tuned for a beach report, I think I'll go there straight.

Below is the maps of Nov 8 and 9 that show how remote the fetch of this swell was. Hence, the slow arrival of the sets.


North shore
N
5.9ft @ 9s from 45° (NE)

Mokapu
4.3ft @ 11s from 18° (NNE)
4.1ft @ 9s from 37° (NE)

That's what's on tap for today on the north shore, slightly declining before a big northerly swell will hit tomorrow. 10f 14s from 346 predicted by Surfline, while Pat Cladwell wrote 12s 13s from N in his table and explains where it comes from in this way:

The persistent north Pacific jet stream pattern since last week has maintained a block over the central Aleutians and troughs in the Gulf of Alaska. Models show it holding into next week. This is keeping WNW to NNW surf at a seasonal minimum and dominant swell out of the N to NNE.
The next in the series of surface lows digging SSE from the eastern Aleutians 11/15 was about 20 degrees longitude further west than previous systems that gave NNE swell. Thus, more straight N direction is expected.

Maui loves straight N, unfortunately the wind won't be exactly ideal, but there might be some spots that won't be too effected by it and the related chop.

Wind maps are back, here's the noon one showing northerly winds. That will bring some chop on the north shore, get in the water early, as the morning will be calm instead.

North Pacific continues to show northerly fetches.

No fetches of relevance in the South Pacific.


Morning sky.

Friday, November 17, 2017

1.30pm lahaina side is knee to waist with the occasional bigger set. Light onshore flow everywhere, but still kinda clean, specially in town

8.30am Hookipa looked head to overhead and poor shape. Cleaner smaller waves inside the harbor