Friday, July 20, 2018

7 a.m ukumehame has inconsistent waist to chest high waves. no wind at the moment, but it feels like it might start blowing anytime

Friday 7 20 18 morning call

A shortboard session for me yesterday. Below is the video of the second Maui to Molokai race that I talked about a few days ago. Thanks to the author Johann Meya for sharing it on youtube. And here's the insides I promised.

Since the first race (a week earlier) didn't have wind till the end and since he thought that the start was going to be from inside Honolua (with pretty much no wind), Zane chose to use the Gofoil Maliko 200, that would allow him a much easier foiling with no wind action. A week earlier he used the Iwa (one size smaller) and that has less lift, but it's also faster. Kai instead was on a pretty small MFC foil and you can see that he struggled just a bit more to make it foil at the very start (which was outside Honolua), but once it was up, he just moved faster. Plus, they had wind till the finish line this time. So, the size of the foil is obviously a key strategic decision, I wonder if one day there will be different sub-categories for foils of different area.

The video is great, enjoy.

Races/Contests of tomorrow Saturday 21.

- Another downwind race (this time a Maliko run) is coming up this Saturday, while the Molokai to Oahu one is on Sunday 29.
- The HSA Hurley surf contest will be on at the Lahaina harbor the whole weekend.
- The Maui Race Series slalom windsurfing race at Kanaha

Meanwhile in Bali the Rip Curl contest at Padang Padang was completed and the waves were amazing. If you have a couple of hours to fill, I recommend watching the final day. The commentary is poor (one guy makes me miss Dave Mel, imagine that), but the waves and the action are excellent.
Photo by Lawrence from this website (where you can find out the winner).

4am significant buoy readings
South shore

2.9ft @ 15s from 148° (SE)

2.9ft @ 15s from 174° (S)

3.1ft @ 15s from 166° (SSE)

2.6ft @ 17s from 178° (S)

Once again Barbers indicates 2s more in the period than the outer buoys and I can't get my head around that. What counts is that there is plenty energy in the water, I will report size and conditions later. In the meantime, this is a well overhead set at Ala Moana (which is always bigger than Lahaina, fyi). It seems very inconsistent though, with plenty flat spells in between sets.

North shore
4.4ft @ 8s from 85° (E)
2.8ft @ 6s from 62° (ENE)
Big drop in the windswell, Hookipa will be tiny today.
Wind map at noon.
North pacific shows the windswell fetch.
Only small angular spreading in the South Pacific, which confirms the downward trend starting mid next week.
Morning sky.

Thursday, July 19, 2018

6.00 a.m lahaina side has mixed energies and sizes from knee to head high. ukumehame no wind yet

Thursday 7 19 18 morning call

A shortboard, a SUP foiling and a windsurfing session for me yesterday. The waves in Lahaina were delightful again. Here's young surfing star Ocean Macedo enjoying some cross stepping on a Wave Storm.

This is young Annie Reickert looking down the line in all her elegance and beauty.

Here she starts to lean into the cut back.

And here you can see that the weight has subtly shifted on the front foot That is necessary as the foils accelerate out of the turns and would want to come out of the water otherwise.

When I got back to the north shore around 2pm, Pavillions was kind of pumping. This is Tanner Hendrickson.

And this looks like Justin Patao.

I have a new SUP foiling board (will talk about it soon), and I just added the footstraps (I'm a big fan of the stick on inserts), so I prolonged my SUP foiling session on the Lahaina waves until I found the sweet spot for them. Downwinder conditions on the north shore were pretty epic, but I had not enough juice at that point, so I wisely took a nap instead and went windsurfing afterwards. My desire of learning the downwinders on the SUP foil is there, but I'm not scarifying any possible fun to it. I'll learn when there's no waves on the south shore.

Jeremy Riggs was out there instead as always and dropped in some bombs on his two men canoe (notice the spare paddle attached to the iako).

3am significant buoy readings
South shore
2.7ft @ 15s from 142° (SE)

2.8ft @ 17s from 139° (SE)

1.7ft @ 13s from 183° (S)

1.6ft @ 13s from 184° (S)
1.3ft @ 20s from 177° (S)
1.2ft @ 16s from 189° (S)
Multiple energies at Barbers, which the reflection of an intricate map of fetches that happened in the Southern hemisphere about a week ago. Below is the detailed description of them by my guru Pat Cadlwell and below that the collage of the maps of July 11, 12, 13 and 14 that might help you follow it. The bottom line is: plenty waves till Tuesday. Unfortunately, not much after that, I have to add.

A series of low pressures S to SE of New Zealand 7/9-12 is expected to make overlapping events locally 7/18-21 from the SSW. The pattern of low pressure systems shifted east 7/13-16, leading to new overlapping events from more straight south locally 7/21-25.
The first system had gales behind a front to near 45S to the SE of New Zealand 7/9-10 with seas 20-25 feet. Long-period forerunners arrived locally 7/17 and the event is peaking 7/18 centered near 190 degrees.
The second pattern 7/10-11 was similar, with a low tracking east along 60S and gales behind a front pushing to 45S to the SE of New Zealand. Since it was acting upon existing seas, surf potential in Hawaii is greater. NOAA southern buoy 51002 shows an increase in the 16-19 second band 7/18. This event should be filled in on Thursday bringing breakers a notch above the summer average from 190 degrees.
The third low pressure 7/11-12 was much stronger with storm-force winds and seas within 30-40 feet. However, it was closer to Antarctic and more zonal, or west to east in the fetch. JASON altimeter showed seas higher than predicted by Wave Watch III 7/12 at both 12 and 18Z for the portion closest to the Hawaii great circle route along 195 degrees. This system should have long- period forerunners arriving 7/19 with the peak above average on 7/20. It should slowly decline from 185-200 degrees into the weekend as new swell arrive.
The jet stream trough east of New Zealand progressed east 7/13-17. A pair of low pressures gained strength at the eastern edge of the Hawaii swell window.
The first one 7/13-14 had severe gales and broadened as the aim became more meridional just east of the Hawaii swell window. The fetch was broad with seas near 25 feet. It was close enough for angular spreading to bring swell locally. Long-period forerunners are due late on 7/20 locally from 180-190 degrees. It should peak on Saturday above average.
The second 7/15-17 was much stronger, to hurricane-force. The low center tracked steadily east making for a brief period in the Hawaii swell window. But the large fetch and seas to 40 feet should allow ample swell to reach Hawaii through angular spreading.
Extra-long wave periods within 20-25 seconds are expected to fill in locally 7/21 from 175-185 degrees. The event should climb above average Saturday night, peak Sunday, then slowly drop on Monday.

Overall, it should be a cracking day of surfing on the south shore, I'll report when I get there.

North shore
6.4ft @ 10s from 99° (E)
4.6ft @ 7s from 77° (ENE)

Pat Caldwell has some words also to describe what caused the uptick in the windswell:
A tropical disturbance south of the Island of Hawaii 7/18 is tracking steadily east. In combination with the seasonally semi- permanent surface high pressure over the central to northeast Pacific, an area of fresh to strong breezes north of the disturbance to 24N has allowed the rough, above average surf locally 7/18. ASCAT satellite at 9 AM HST 7/18 shows strong wind NNE of the Big Island. The PacIOOS/CDIP Hilo buoy in the morning 7/18 climbed to 10 feet significant wave height.

The waves at Hookipa were up to head high at sunset yesterday. Should be similar and pumping all day today.

Wind map at noon.

North Pacific shows a fairly long windswell fetch.

South Pacific only shows a "blue" fetch, which means not aimed straight at us, but close enough to receive some angular spreading. Next week looking smaller than this current one on the south shore.

Morning sky.

Wednesday, July 18, 2018

6.30 a.m lahaina side is knee to waist and clean. ukumehame has texture

Wednesday 7 18 18 morning call

A longboard, a SUP foiling and a shortboard session for me yesterday, as this fantastic summer keeps on giving. I caught about 10 waves in the first, 20 in the second and 3 in the third. It might be that scarcity makes it precious, but the feeling of pushing hard on the fins, turning tight and hitting the lip when shortboarding remains my favorite, without a doubt.

It might also be because I'm not as good as Nathan here. He can ride 30-40 waves without coming down and he's gonna do the upcoming Molokai to Oahu (July 29) race on a SUP with the foil. It'll be interesting to see how he does compared Kai and Zane. Talking about which, I got some insides from the last Maui to Molokai race, but I'll wait until a great video that I saw on facebook gets uploaded on youtube.

3am significant buoy readings
South shore

1.7ft @ 14s from 162° (SSE)

1.9ft @ 14s from 166° (SSE)

2.4ft @ 14s from 140° (SE)

1.4ft @ 15s from 200° (SSW)
0.5ft @ 22s from 199° (SSW)

14-15s swell holds on and will provide most of the waves for the day (still the usual knee to waist is my guess, but I'll report when I get there), but Barbers also feels half a foot @ 22s which is a good sign for the upcoming days. The map of July 10 was an intricate one. Lots of strong fetches, which I circled in red if oriented towards us, in blue if oriented elsewhere but with hope of angular spreading.
In the midst of all that circling, I overlooked a direct fetch to the S of the Tasman Sea which, seen the direction at Barbers (which is more or less reliable), could be the source of the very long period energy. I made amend by circling it in black and publishing it again here below.

North shore
5.4ft @ 9s from 82° (E)
4.4ft @ 6s from 73° (ENE)

The period went up a second at Pauwela, and today the waves at Hookipa should reflect that. Occasionally shoulder to head high is my optimistic guess, seen the not ideal direction.

Wind map at noon.

North Pacific has the windswell fetch, today with a bit of length.

South Pacific map has scattered little fetches, but overall pretty grim for the second day in a row.

Morning sky shows clouds moving in from the west.

Tuesday, July 17, 2018

6.30 a.m lahaina side is smaller than yesterday but still knee to waist and clean. ukumehame windy

Tuesday 7 17 18 morning call

Another excellent longboard and a SUP foiling session for me yesterday. The second one allowed me to witness the best prone foiling I've ever seen, Kai Lenny included. This south African kid called Nathan is a real pelican.

For the third time in the last couple of weeks, the waves in Lahaina improved greatly in the second half of the morning. Obviously, it's not a tide thing, as it was different all the times, it must be a remarkable coincidence. Here's a couple of shots between sessions.

Why do I drive every morning to the south shore? The answer is in the superior quality of the conditions. Why do I live in Maui? One of the reasons is that it has the shortest commute time between north and south shore.

A big set hits the guardrails area.

3am significant buoy readings
South shore

1.7ft @ 13s from 173° (S)

1.6ft @ 15s from 170° (S)

1.7ft @ 13s from 142° (SE)

2ft @ 14s from 212° (SW)

There we go again, 2f 14s... I'll report when I get there, but you guys should know by now what that means: uncrowded, small, clean waves. No signs yet of the energy of the fetches E of New Zealand I outlined in yesterday's collage. No big deal, as we still have the Tasman Sea energy going. Barbers' direction is correct, the outer buoys, as usual, are all over the place. Surfline told me that they will add Lanai, but it hasn't happened yet. I'll send email n.5.

North shore
6.1ft @ 8s from 83° (E)

Slightly bigger windswell at Pauwela, nonetheless Hookipa looked pretty small (like waist high) from the distance yesterday at sunset.

Wind map at noon.

North Pacific only has the windswell fetch.

South Pacific has a couple of small SSE fetches.

Morning sky.

Monday, July 16, 2018

10 a.m lahaina side has improved and now it has waist to occasionally chest high clean waves. photo taken at launiupoko.

7 a.m. lahaina side has inconsistent knee to waist high waves. smaller than yesterday. ukumehame and launiupoko areas are glassy, the first one a bit wobbly.