I decided to keep a log of my indo sessions, so why not post it on the blog for the hard core aficionados...
I haven't busted the cameras out yet, so maybe this will give me the motivation to do so.
I'm at my favorite spot in Indo and the waves are absolutely awesome as usual.
Day 1 - July 30. I totally sucked in my first session. A month of longboarding in Maui made my shortboard paddling weak and my standing up action slow.
Session 2 was redemption time and I did a lot better. Conditions were awesome at low tide with head high plus, very clean offshore.
Day 2 - July 31. Session 1 had high tide and no offshores but plenty wall.
Session 2. First hour was a 9 with solid head and a half occasionally pushing double and beautiful drops and walls. I got a little cover up. Second hour I got caught inside 3 times and the paddle back to the lineup was brutal: 20 minutes. I pretty much paddled the whole time. After the third time, I couldn't even paddle back out and waited for the boat to pick me up in the middle of the ocean.
Pretty much surfed out already after only 2 days... Hopefully the waves will slow down a bit mid week so that I can rest a little.
Can't believe I just wrote that... what a great problem to have!