Thursday, April 26, 2018

10am lahaina side is knee to waist waves, with occasional chest high sets in the launiupoko area. Unfortunately, light onshore, but still decent

Thursday 4 26 18 morning call

My trigger fingers are improving and I should keep resting them, but I just couldn't pass on a foiling session as the conditions were really fun for it. I could have proned it, but I'm still at the no-fun stage of that, so I decided to go strapped SUP instead. Later in the day on I scored an even more fun longboard session.


I usually choose the windsurfing photo out of Jimmie Hepp's gallery mostly based on how well it shows the wave size, but in this case the move is obviously much predominant. You don't see often stuff like that.


3am significant buoy readings
South shore

W
1.7ft @ 14s from 170° (S)

SW
2ft @ 14s from 147° (SE)

SE
2.3ft @ 14s from 163° (SSE)

Southerly energy at all the outer buoys, so there will be waves also today on the Lahaina side. I should be able to post a report from there around but only around 9am. Yesterday the biggest sets were pushing shoulder high in the Launiupoko area. The Lahaina bypass is already a great improvement to the traffic on the side, btw. When it's going to be complete, it's going to be even better.

North shore.
Hanalei
6.6ft @ 8s from 60° (ENE)
1ft @ 16s from 334° (NNW)

Pauwela
7.6ft @ 8s from 43° (NE)
0.7ft @ 18s from 355° (N)

New long period NW swell on the rise (directions at the buoys are not reliable until the swell gets bigger), but my guess is that it's going to be too small to make a significant difference in the water for most of the day. That's because 7.6f 8s from 43 should provide plenty overhead waves at Hookipa. For sure when the NW lines will start getting bigger in the late afternoon, they will look very different from the short period energy.

Wind map at noon. Might be the last sailing day for a while.


North Pacific only has a small local windswell fetch.


South Pacific doesn't show any fetches of relevance.


Morning sky.



Wednesday, April 25, 2018

9am lahaina side has inconsistent knee to waist waves, best in the launiupoko area where it's occasionally chest high. Ukumehame windy.

Wednesday 4 25 18 morning call

Longboard session for me yesterday as the waves on the south shore got up to occasionally pretty clean waist high in the late morning. Nothing like Bali though.


3am significant buoy readings
South shore

SE
2.3ft @ 14s from 204° (SSW)

Lovely reading at the SE buoy, the Surfline forecast calls for 1.1f 15s. There should be waves also today.

North shore
Hanalei
7.4ft @ 8s from 51° (ENE)

Pauwela
6.9ft @ 8s from 44° (NE)
3.3ft @ 11s from 328° (NW)
 
NW swell already disappeared at Hanalei and that means that it will soon also in Maui. We're left with a windswell from the NE and trade winds.

Wind map at noon.


North Pacific looking pretty grim with only a northerly windswell fetch.


South Pacific even worse with no fetches at all.


Morning sky.

Tuesday, April 24, 2018

6.30am lahaina side has extremely inconsistent knee high sets. Flat otherwise.

Tuesday 4 24 18 morning call

No water action for me yesterday. This is a photo by Jimmie Hepp from this gallery showing the effect of a footstrap failure and the size that the NW swell reached at Hookipa.


3am significant buoy readings
South shore

No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 0.9f 15s as a new SSW swell is predicted to pick up.
Here's how Pat Caldwell describes the fetch history: A large area of gales to storm-force winds in the southern Tasman Sea 4/15-17 is expected to give a long-period swell locally from 208-220 degrees starting late Monday 4/23. The PacIOOS/CDIP Pearl Harbor Entrance buoy shows a trace of 16-18 second energy. Surf should hold within background to near the summer average 4/24-26 with a downward trend 4/27-28.

Below is the collage of the maps of April 15, 16 and 17 that might help following his description. I will be on the Lahaina side quite early, but I'm not sure I'll be able to post a report. If there, for sure the new energy will be very inconsistent.


North shore
Hanalei
6.3ft @ 8s from 79° (ENE)
3.8ft @ 12s from 321° (NW)

Pauwela
4.5ft @ 7s from 58° (ENE)
4.4ft @ 13s from 315° (NW)
3.6ft @ 9s from 72° (ENE)
 
The graph of the two reported buoys below shows that the NW swell peaked yesterday afternoon in Kauai and so we can deduce that it peaked during the night in Maui. As a result, it will slowly go down in size all today and tomorrow before a new very similar swell hits Friday/Saturday, coinciding with a change in the weather pattern that should see the formation of a trades-killing low north of the islands.


Wind map at noon.


North Pacific shows a fetch in the NW corner, the main part of which is directed to the mainland. There's also a NE windswell fetch, but I forgot to circle it.


Similar situation in the South Pacific, this time the main part of the fetch is aiming at South America, but the very tail (and hopefully some angular spreading of the swell) is aimed at us.


Morning sky.

Monday, April 23, 2018

Monday 4 23 18 morning call

A lesson gave me the opportunity to catch a few waves SUP foiling yesterday and that was really nice. The windsurfing action at Hookipa was captured as usual Jimmie Hepp. Photo from this gallery.


6am significant buoy readings.
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 1.6f 12s.

North shore
Hanalei
3.8ft @ 9s from 76° (ENE)
3.6ft @ 14s from 309° (WNW)

Pauwela
3.8ft @ 8s from 69° (ENE)
3.3ft @ 6s from 66° (ENE)
2.4ft @ 10s from 327° (NW)
2.2ft @ 15s from 314° (NW)
 
New NW swell on the rise, but as I commented yesterday (about the fetches not looking impressive), it seems quite a bit smaller than the forecast. Below are the graphs of the two reported buoys and the Surfline forecast for the next three days. This last one is calling for almost 6f 14s at 8pm. Judging from the buoys, we'll be lucky if we get 4.
 
Hookipa looked pretty horrible this morning (beach report today below the call), and that's no surprise with a wave spectrum like the one below. In the 8s period, there's energy from 280 all the way to 110. Clean waves are impossible in these situation: too much chop. Plus the active wind.

Wind map at noon.


North Pacific shows a fetch in the NW corner and a couple of small windswell fetches just to keep to chop up.


South Pacific shows a nice but partially blocked by New Zealand fetch.


Morning sky.

Monday 4 23 18 beach report

6.15am beach report before call today. Hookipa has inconsistent chest to head high waves of poor shape with plenty wind.
2

Sunday, April 22, 2018

Sunday 4 22 18 morning call

A longboard and a prone foiling session for me yesterday.
This photo shows the size of the set waves on the south shore.


And if you feel that need for a more dynamic action shot, how's this one from GoFoil of Zane Schweitzer and Austin Kalama doing aerials (the former one strapless) on their SUP foiling boards using the wake of a boat?


3am significant buoy readings
South shore

No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 1.8f 11s.

North shore
Hanalei
3.4ft @ 11s from 328° (NW)

Pauwela
3.9ft @ 9s from 75° (ENE)
3.4ft @ 6s from 62° (ENE)
2.9ft @ 12s from 334° (NNW)
2.1ft @ 10s from 354° (N)
 
Below is the graph of the two reported buoys plus the Surfline forecast. The current small NW swell seems to have peaked (light blue line at Hanalei and red becoming orange at Pauwela) and today it should be slowly tapering down in size, as predicted by the forecast (purple line with the red arrow).

Tomorrow a new pulse should arrive (green line with black arrow) and reach almost 6f 14s at sunset. From what I remember from the unimpressive fetches of the past few days, that seems a bit optimistic to me, but it is going to be bigger than the last two ones (Friday and yesterday/today). In the end, size won't matter much because, as it's been the case for the last 2 weeks, the north shore will be windy and blown out.

Wind map at noon.


North Pacific only shows a small fetch in the NW corner.


South Pacific's main fetch is the very tail of a stronger one that now is aiming at Americas, but I think we'll get some angular spreading of it. Plus it was much better oriented yesterday.


Morning sky.

Saturday, April 21, 2018

7.30am lahaina side is knee to thigh, inconsistent but very clean. Ukumehame light onshore

6.30am Hookipa has inconsistent head high sets with some wind on it.
Still a 3 in my scale.

Saturday 4 21 18 morning call

A longboard session for me yesterday.
This is the colorful sunset in a photo by Jimmie Hepp.


5am significant buoy readings
South shore

SW
1.8ft @ 14s from 158° (SSE)

That's the only southerly energy reading I could spot at the outer buoys (always a challenge to interpret the rarely reliable directions) and I like it because it signals a new low long period swell. The surfline forecast calls for 1.8f 11s (old swell) plus 0.7f 15s (new swell).

Pat Caldwell wrote: A severe gale just north of Antarctica to the SE of New Zealand 4/12-14 has potential to bring in a low, long-period swell for the weekend of 4/21-22 locally from 180-190 degrees. Heights should remain at background levels.

And these are the maps/fetches he refers to (April 12, 13 and 14). Btw, when he says background level, for Maui that's knee high.


North shore
Hanalei
3ft @ 13s from 316° (NW)

Pauwela
3.8ft @ 8s from 73° (ENE)
2.7ft @ 13s from 328° (NW)
 
Very little to be excited about on the north shore, as the predicted weekend swell is slower and smaller than modelled by the Wave Watch III. It feels a bit less windy than usual at my house this morning though, so stay tuned for an Hookipa beach report before 7am.

Wind map at noon.


North Pacific only shows a windswell fetch as the one north of us is now only aiming at the mainland.


Much better situation in the South Pacific as yesterday's fetch moved east a bit and it's less blocked by New Zealand.


Morning sky.

Friday, April 20, 2018

7.30am Hookipa chest to head high waves. A mix of windswell and the occasional nw set. Wind is not too strong at the moment, but conditions are still poor in my opinion.
3

Friday 4 20 morning call

A shortboard and a longboard session for me yesterday. That's how clean the waves were.






The foiling frog instead was at Hookipa.


5am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys anymore, the Surfline forecast looks pretty steady instead with 1.8f 12s.

North shore
Hanalei
4.9ft @ 6s from 74° (ENE)
3.8ft @ 9s from 72° (ENE)
2.1ft @ 11s from 320° (NW)
1.6ft @ 15s from 333° (NNW)
 
Pauwela
5.6ft @ 9s from 73° (ENE)
3.6ft @ 5s from 72° (ENE)
1.1ft @ 16s from 354° (N)
 
Yesterday's NW pulse was pretty small, but there were some fun waves at Hookipa. Today there's another one on the rise, as the longer period readings at the buoys confirm. Here's Pat Caldwell's explanation of the fetches:
 
A severe gale formed east of the Kuril Islands 4/15 with a NE track. The center entered the Bering Sea 4/16 with storm-force winds. A long fetch south of the Aleutians 4/15-17 aimed highest seas at the Americas. Long-period forerunners are expected locally Thursday PM from 320-330 degrees. Heights are expected to reach near the April average for the peak of the event on Friday.
The fetch width spread 4/17-18 with a large area of marginal gales north of 40N within 160-180W. With the tail of the fetch 2000 nm away, this should make for a long-lived event. The event should linger over the weekend from 325-340 degrees at levels under the average. A new episode is due Sunday PM.

Below is the collage of the maps of April 16, 17 and 18 and that might help you trying to follow what uncle Pat described in words. Nothing to be too excited about if you're a north shore surfer, as the wind will keep blowing relentlessly.


Wind map at noon.


North Pacific shows a NW fetch and the windswell one.


South Pacific shows a large and well oriented fetch, unfortunately greatly blocked by New Zealand.


Morning sky.