Two shortboard sessions for me yesterday. My fingers are getting better after the cortisone injections, but I'll refrain from gripping disciplines until they eventually completely heal. So I'm only surfing and, guess what, I'm loving it.
This is Micah working a little harbor roller. No doubt I would have been doing that if my fingers were fine, but I'm not missing it at all. Just accepting reality the way it is and it's pretty damn good with all these waves we're getting.
Blog reader Luca kindly sent me a photo of Honolua, breaking at a small size at the Point. You can see the 12s in those lines.
4am significant buoy readings
1.9ft @ 17s from 212° (SW)
That reading is highly suspicious for the following two reasons. There's similar period NW energy in the water and it will somehow hit that buoy. No other buoy registers that direction. So this is one of those cases in which we have to look at the webcams to figure out what's going on on the south shore. Yesterday it was knee to waist high.
8.3ft @ 16s from 309° (WNW)
8.2ft @ 18s from 307° (WNW)
6.7ft @ 18s from 309° (WNW)
4.8ft @ 18s from 318° (NW)
The question is: with an original direction that seems to be pretty consistent around 309 at the upstream buoys, which Maui spots will be hit and how much? The post Buoys to Maui travel times and Maui's shadow lines contains the shadow lines for many of them. For your convenience, here's a few that every Maui surfer should know by heart:
- Hookipa 305
- Honolua 335.
So Hookipa will be hit directly by all the energy that comes from 305 or more north. Everything else will need to wrap around all the upstream islands. Don't forget that the buoys only indicate the dominant direction (the one associated with the most energy), but swells always have a range of directions (300-315 in this case according to Pat Caldwell).
As a consequence of that, and as a consequence of the energy dissipation that is associated with the refraction, the size and consistency of the waves should be less at Kanaha and even less at Honolua. This last one can very easily be completely flat, even though some very inconsistent sets might manage to sneak in thanks to the supreme wrapping ability of 18s periods. I'd love a report/photo from there, if any of you west side guys go check it out (but I wouldn't drive too much for that).
North Pacific has yet again a nice relative close NW fetch. More waves to come.
South Pacific offers another strong Tasman Sea fetch. Another big swell for Fiji (in 2-3 days), another small one for us (in a week).