Wednesday, August 15, 2018

Wednesday 8 15 18 morning call

A SUP foiling session for me yesterday. No photo of the day, here's some very clean lines at Uluwatu from some years ago. This is the last morning call for a while (possibly a month), as I'm leaving tomorrow for Indonesia. Keep checking the blog, as I will possibly post updates from there.


I buy my ticket at the last minute only when I see the situation represented in the picture below: small stuff for Maui's south shore and good stuff for Indo.


But this time there is a surprise that I hope you guys will enjoy: the north shore is going to come back to life with a couple of proper swells. Below is the wind map predicted for Saturday mid day. The NNW fetch I circled will give life to a swell that Surfline predicts to reach 4.5f 12s from 345 Wednesday and Thursday. Even the Bay might break with that ideal direction, although small.

Then there's tropical storm Lane that will become a major hurricane and should track south of the islands. We all saw what Hector did, so be ready for possible long period waves in Hana and short period ones on the south shore.

Lastly, the tropical depression S of Japan is predicted to follow the red arrow and should end up changing in a wider low in the NW corner around August 24th and send a NW swell 3-4 days after that.


5am significant buoy readings
South shore

Barbers
1.5ft @ 11s from 195° (SSW)
0.5ft @ 20s from 172° (S)

Lanai
1.8ft @ 13s from 188° (S)

South swell down to marginal sizes. The super sensitive Barbers buoy feels half a foot 20s from somewhere, but that won't be noticeable in the water. As a matter of fact, this is the best set I've seen at Ala Moana while writing this call, flat otherwise. I'm not going Lahaina side, but I'm calling it flat to knee high from home.


North shore
Pauwela
3.4ft @ 7s from 57° (ENE)

Tiny stuff at Pauwela, I'm calling Hookipa close to flat too.

Wind map at noon.


North Pacific completely quite at the moment.


South Pacific has a fetch deep south of the Tasman Sea.


Morning sky.

Tuesday, August 14, 2018

6.30am lahaina side is knee to waist high with occasional bigger sets and clean. Ukumehame light offshore.

Tuesday 8 14 18 morning call

A shortboard session for me yesterday. No photos of the day, but I timely received an email from an unknown resort in Telo publicizing how well the waves of the island reacted to the extremely large swells that hit Indonesia latety. This appear to be the main spot.


The caption for this was:"Waves on the backside of islands that never broke were doing this".
That's where I would have surfed.


4am significant buoy readings
South shore

W
2.4ft @ 12s from 134° (SE)

SW
2.4ft @ 12s from 144° (SE)

Barbers
1.6ft @ 12s from 189° (S)
0.8ft @ 16s from 203° (SSW)

Lanai
1.9ft @ 13s from 183° (S)
1ft @ 16s from 191° (SSW)

South swell down to 12s and minimal size (flat to knee with occasional waist high is my home guess), but the two local buoys record some low long period SSW energy. I went searching through the fetches maps and all I could find was a tiny red circle in the Tasman Sea on the 8th. I doubt there will be much noticeable from it in the water, but I'll sure report when I get there.
 

North shore
Pauwela
2.8ft @ 8s from 64° (ENE)
2.5ft @ 6s from 63° (ENE)
1.5ft @ 12s from 74° (ENE)
0.3ft @ 15s from 63° (ENE)
 
Very low local windswell (the one below 10s) at Pauwela, but a little more energy from Hurricane John. The waves at Hookipa are still going to be pretty small, imo.

Wind map at noon. Gonna be a hot one.


Just a weak windswell fetch in the North Pacific.


And a weak fetch in the Tasman Sea is all the South Pacific has to offer.


Morning sky.

Monday, August 13, 2018

8.30am there are bigger sets up to shoulder high in town, but they're rare. Light onshore now.
    

6am lahaina side is knee to waist high and clean everywhere. Didn't wait to see if there's bigger sets.
    

Monday 8 12 18 morning call

Thanks a lot to blog reader Justin for the donation via the Paypal button.

A longboard, a SUP foiling and a shortboard session for me yesterday, in a day that saw some very good waves on the south shore. Too much fun to rest my back. If summer in Maui was every day like that (but it isn't), I would feel no need to go anywhere. I also took photos at three different spots. Here's the first one.

Archie Kalepa loves foiling.

"8.40am the guardrails area has plenty head high sets and clean", I wrote. Been quite off with some calls lately (like the arrival time of the hurricane swell, for example), but my reports have been pretty accurate, at least. But that's a lot easier.

Harbor had an extremely high level of surfers and a couple of photographers in the water. I love the water fan in this one.

Lovely warble in the lip line.

Cody Young was one of the standouts, obviously.

Spot 3: Jason's version of a grab rail turn on a foil.

Aerodynamic. Or cool. Or both.

Robby Naish has an extremely low stance on his foil board and he grabs the rail pretty much every time he changes direction, even the backside one. I like it.

Joy is our natural state of being. Then there's the distraction introduced by the mind and its incessant dialog.

You can see the intensity of the effort on the face of the most famous windsurfer in the world.

 As kindly requested by blog reader S., some female beauty. Brother, this one is for you!

2am significant buoy readings
South shore

W
2.5ft @ 13s from 146° (SE)

SW
3.2ft @ 12s from 125° (ESE)

SE
2.6ft @ 12s from 129° (ESE)

Barbers
2.1ft @ 13s from 191° (SSW)

Lanai
2.3ft @ 13s from 189° (S)

South swell down to 13s, but still 2-3f, so more waves on tap for the south shore today. I'll report when I get there (should be early), my optimism guess from home is waist to occasionally chest high.

North shore
Pauwela
4.6ft @ 7s from 80° (E)
2.8ft @ 6s from 81° (E)
1.3ft @ 11s from 74° (ENE)
1.3ft @ 14s from 83° (E)

The north swell that left many uninformed Hookipa surfers wondering why the hurricane swell was still there, lasted 4 days and now it's over. Back to purely easterly energy. The long period one is from hurricane John, but it's tiny and I don't think it's going to be noticeable. So small waves at Hookipa is my call.

Wind map at noon.


North Pacific only has the windswell fetch.


South Pacific has a couple of small fetches: a Tasman Sea one and a SSE one. I circled in black and extremely remote fetch SW of South Africa that could possibly (no idea how the great circle rays are) be oriented towards Indonesia. That is a distance of 7.500 miles vs the 4,500 that separate the summer time fetches E of New Zealand from Hawaii. That is to say that Indonesia is one of the countries on Earth with the longest stretch of open ocean in front of it. That's one of the reasons that make the waves always so clean there. If that swell does get there, we're talking 27+ seconds of period.


Morning sky.

Sunday, August 12, 2018

8.40am the guardrails area has plenty head high sets and clean
    

6am ukumehame is waist to belly high and clean with occasional bigger sets. Smaller than yesterday, but still plenty waves.
    

Sunday 8 12 18 morning call

A longboard session for me yesterday, as my back pain was a lot better and Thousand Peaks was too glassy and beautiful to pass. This is my coworker Ayako on a small one. There were sets up to head high.

This instead is Keith Teboul foiling by himself away from the pack of surfers at sunset at Hookipa.


3am significant buoy readings
South shore

W
2.9ft @ 14s from 190° (S)

SW
3.3ft @ 13s from 149° (SE)

SE
2.7ft @ 13s from 184° (S)

Barbers
2.6ft @ 14s from 184° (S)

Lanai
3ft @ 14s from 175° (S)

South swell still up at the buoys, gonna be another beautiful day of surfing on the south shore. I'll report as soon as I'll get there.

North shore
Pauwela
3.1ft @ 8s from 29° (NNE)
2.8ft @ 7s from 47° (NE)
 
The very long lasting N swell is starting to decline, but not over just yet. There should waves at Hookipa also today.

Wind map at noon.

North Pacific has mostly the windswell fetch. The low north of the Aleutians is strong, but its fetch is blocked. It'll probably still send a small NW fetch on Wednesday/Thursday (1f 11s predicted by Surfline).


South Pacific has a small fetch in the Tasman Sea that will be mostly blocked by the islands to its north.


Morning sky.

Saturday, August 11, 2018

6am ukumehame is waist to chest high with occasional bigger set and clean.
    

Satruday 8 11 18 morning call

Another day of rest for me yesterday, even though I managed to teach another successful windfoiling lesson. Prior to that, I had the most painful massage ever, but it seemed to be so effective that this morning I might want to try how surfing feels.

This photo is from Jason Hall and it's from August 8th, just a regular south swell day before Hector hit.


3am significant buoy readings
South shore
W
2.6ft @ 15s from 142° (SE)

SW
2.9ft @ 14s from 169° (SSE)

SE
2.6ft @ 14s from 154° (SSE)

Barbers
2.2ft @ 15s from 186° (S)

Lanai
3.2ft @ 17s from 177° (S)

Beautiful long period readings at the buoys. It still baffles me that the recorded period can be that different (14 to 17!), it might have to do with the algorithm Surfline uses to extrapolate the individual swell energy off the publicly available buoy data. Whatever it is, what counts is that the long period south swell predicted to peak today and last through Tuesday is here. Below is the collage of the maps of August 3, 4 and 5 that show the fetch that generated it.



The annual OLE longboard contest organized by Hi-Tech at Launiupoko is going to be blessed by awesome conditions all day. I'll report when I get there, but I'll call waist to shoulder from home.

North shore
Pauwela
4.4ft @ 9s from 4° (N)

The long lasting N swell continues, another day of out of season waves on the north shore. Solid head high at Hookipa is my guess.

Wind map at noon.


North Pacific shows a very distant WSW fetch and the windswell one.


South shore has a couple of small S fetches. Indian Ocean continues to provide swell after swell instead.


Morning sky.

Friday, August 10, 2018

Friday 8 10 18 morning call

Day of rest for me yesterday as I had to nurse my back pain. Timing was horrible, because the south shore was going off pretty much all day. This is one of the many spots that lit up in a photo by my friend Curtis. Oh well, hope you guys scored.



5am significant buoy readings
South shore

W
7.3ft @ 8s from 158° (SSE)
1.1ft @ 15s from 240° (WSW)

SW
4.8ft @ 8s from 115° (ESE)
2.3ft @ 12s from 155° (SSE)
1.3ft @ 17s from 162° (SSE)

SE
3.8ft @ 8s from 107° (ESE)                        
1.2ft @ 17s from 200° (SSW)
 
Barbers
1.8ft @ 13s from 196° (SSW)
0.7ft @ 18s from 184° (S)
 
Lanai
2.2ft @ 12s from 187° (S)
1.1ft @ 18s from 181° (S)
 
Hector's energy should be completely gone (only showing at the W buoy, but the SSE direction is going away from us), so today we're left with a little bit of energy of the old south swell (down to 12s). The good news is that a new long period south swell is predicted to be SLOWLY rising all day and that should make for a pretty good day tomorrow. Below is a comparison between Ala Moana yesterday around 2pm with extremely consistent double overhead sets and today's much more mellow conditions. I need to rest, but I have a massage in Lahaina, so I'll report at one point.
 
 
North shore
Pauwela
4.2ft @ 9s from 5° (N)
3.5ft @ 6s from 55° (ENE)
 
The short period N swell is slowly going down but it's going to last a couple of more days. 

Wind map at noon.


Not much going on in the North Pacific other than a weak windswelly NE fetch.


South Pacific has a small but well positioned S fetch. 0.8f 15s in exactly one week predicted by Surfline out of it.


Morning sky with Hector getting out of the picture.

Thursday, August 09, 2018

10am There's already waves at maalaea

Friday 8 9 18 morning call

A shortboard session for me yesterday, which I had to cut short and immediately go see a massage therapist because my low right back pain got unbearable. I'm going to take a prolonged break and try to get rid of it before I leave in a week. The south swell in Lahaina was still very enjoyable (even though much smaller than yesterday), but here's some photos of much bigger waves by my friend Marco from Hamoa Bay in Hana.


This is the long period ESE swell generated by Hector.


I'm going to explain why the period and size of this swell is going to be much bigger than the southerly pulse we're going to receive this afternoon from the same storm. Below is the collage of the fetch maps of August 4 to 7. As you can see the hurricane tracked westward towards the island chain. I added a small black circle to underline the fetch of winds directed towards us: very tiny, but intense and most importantly, captured. The storm produced waves in all direction around its eye, but only the ones that went in the same direction as the storm itself, got to be built further, as the storm kept blowing strong winds on them. Completely different will be the case tonight, as the fetch of south to north winds oriented towards while the storm was passing south of us, only lasted a few hours before the storm shifted more west. I explained this last case in detail in yesterday's post.


4am significant buoy readings
South shore

SW
11.6ft @ 8s from 161° (SSE)

Barbers
2.8ft @ 13s from 174° (S)
1.4ft @ 11s from 173° (S)

Lanai
2.5ft @ 13s from 181° (S)
1.1ft @ 11s from 184° (S)

Let's start from the SW buoy reading. That's the very temporary energy from Hector I just described. Short period and decent size, because of the vicinity. Below is the position of all the Hawaii buoys, and I also drew the storm in a position that it probably had last night. You can see how very exposed the SW buoy was to that. We're going to receive much less than that, so my up to 15f 10s yesterday's guess was grossly off. I still stick with the arrival prediction of the late afternoon, but probably nothing worth waiting for. Unless you live in a condo in front of Maalaea, in which case, yes check outside your window if something happens.

All this discussion shouldn't distract us from the main source of clean waves for the south shore we have on tap for the day, which, once again, is the long period energy from the south swell. The period is down to 13 seconds and that will make the waves down to mostly waist high in my opinion. Not going, not reporting, but Ala Moana is not looking particularly exciting, as it's frequently smaller than what shown below.


North shore
Pauwela
5.1ft @ 7s from 68° (ENE)
5ft @ 9s from 28° (NNE)
3.9ft @ 10s from 7° (N)

Yesterday afternoon Pauwela went up to an impressive 6.5f 10s (head and a half and above). This energy is coming from the north fetches I've outlined the past four days: you can see the circles north of us in the same collage I used to explain the long period E swell above. Honestly surprised by that, all the models underestimated it. Today it's down a notch (5f 9s, the graph shows it peaked yesterday), but there will still be plenty waves on offer at Hookipa and all along the north shore. Some wind will be on it though, so don't expect anything particularly clean.


Wind map at noon.


North Pacific has weak scattered fetches all over that won't do much for us.


Absolutely nothing oriented towards us in the South Pacific, while the Indian Ocean continues to produce massive storms/fetches.


Morning sky at 6am. We got lucky on that one.