Monday, October 23, 2017

6am Hookipa has doh sets and no wind. A little too big from the distance.

10 23 17 morrning call

A shortboard and a SUP foiling session for me yesterday. The photo below shows me setting up the first wings combo that I tried. We have both the stick-on Foilmount and the adapter for the tuttle box foils available at Hi-Tech, if you want to quickly convert your surfboard to a foil board. It needs to have a fairly flat bottom for that.

Usually, the wings of the different GoFoils are not interchangeable, unless you buy a package combo (we have ordered a few of those at Hi-Tech). But I got lucky that the screws lined up on mine (I only had to mole the hole of the Maliko tail wing a bit), so all of a sudden, instead of two, I now have four different foils with different lift, speed and maneuverability characteristics. Here are the combinations I can achieve in order of ascending lift and descending speed:

1) full Kai
2) Kai front and Maliko tail, which I will call Kaliko
3) Maliko front and Kai tail, which I will call Makai
4) full Maliko

The reason I set up a Kaliko was to have a bit more stability, but it proved to have too much lift for a shortboard: the foil wanted to come up while I was pushing up to stand up and that is not a good thing. So I switched to a full Kai and that was a lot better. I could stand up with the foil still down and then have it come up with a couple of pumps. It was still very challenging, as the shortboard is extremely sensitive (much more than a SUP) to the position of the feet. Very hard to adjust the front foot if it's not in the right place right away. I only caught a couple of waves at that point, because the tide was going too low, but I learned a lot. And once again, I'm a beginner in a new discipline. I love it.

The SUP foiling session was on the north shore instead with a full Maliko, and it was a good 9 in terms of fun. Some really long rides.

Here's a review of the Kai foil that will hopefully clarify things.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore

All signs of the southerly energy disappeared at the outer buoys, but that's because they are now registering the much stronger NW one. The swell is obviously still there and the Surfline forecast calls for 1.7f at 15s at 8am.

North shore
7.3ft @ 14s from 311° (NW)

6.5ft @ 15s from 315° (NW)

3ft @ 8s from 58° (ENE)

The windswell quickly went down at Mokapu, so today it should all about the NW swell. Let's have a look at the graphs of the NW and Waimea buoys below. I put an arrow to indicate the peak of the swell at the NW buoy. By applying GP's rule of thumb for the travelling time (16h @ 16s +/- 1 hour per second of period), we can expect the swell to peak in Maui during the day, like the red dotted line I drew. Doesn't really matter when it will exactly peak, there will be pretty big waves all day and the conditions will depend and change a lot with the wind, which we will examine just below. Stay tuned for a size report from Hookipa soon.

The graph also shows that Waimea rose in the afternoon yesterday and below is a picture of Pipeline on the right that shows a double overhead set. On the left, Ala Moana doesn't show much instead, but I wrote already how inconsistent south swells are. Sometimes you have to wait 20+ minutes for a set.

Wind map at noon shows the start of the Konas (red circle).

This is the map at 3pm, that show the Kona hitting the north shore much stronger.

Here are the two model at the bottom of the Windguru page. The first one shows strong kona much earlier, but we can already say that is wrong, as there's no wind at all at 5am.

North shore shows the same three fetches for the fourth day in a row:
- a small west fetch associated with typhoon Lan that now has moved further north.
- a large but not too intense NW fetch (vicinity will be a factor)
- a shrinking easterly windswell fetch

South shore shows a small southerly fetch just to keep flatness away.

Morning sky shows the approaching front just NW of the islands, but Oahu is already getting some rain.

That is shown in the radar picture.

Sunday, October 22, 2017

7am ukumehame has very inconsistent waist high clean waves.

6.30am Hookipa has chest to head high waves, kinda sloppy. Didn't see much of the new swell, but didn't wait long. Going south, stay tuned for a beach report.

Sunday 10 22 17 morning call

Lovely SUP foiling and windfoiling sessions for me yesterday, here's a couple of shots from the first one taken by my friend Tomoko.

Remember: don't look at it with the eyes of the surfer. If someone is up on his foil, he's having fun.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore

1.4ft @ 18s from 124° (ESE)

1.7ft @ 17s from 179° (S)

2.4ft @ 17s from 130° (ESE)

Lovely long period southerly energy at the outer buoys, below is the collage of the maps of October 15, 16 and 17. Three solid days of wave generation, but the swell will last more than that, because the shorter period energy will take more than 7 days to get here. The fetch of the 15th was oriented to the east of us (we're getting the angular spreading) and that is confirmed by the higher numbers at the SE buoy. There will be waves on the south shores, but they will be inconsistent. That is common to all the onsets of south swell, in particular the ones of the angular spreadings.

North shore
3.1ft @ 17s from 330° (NW)

2.4ft @ 11s from 350° (N)
1.2ft @ 20s from 315° (NW)

5.3ft @ 8s from 40° (NE)
As predicted, we have new long period NW energy at the buoys. The numbers are not particularly big yet, this swell is in fact predicted by Surfline to peak on Monday at 7f 15s.
The windswell is down to 5.3f 8s from 40 degrees at Mokapu and Waimea still shows 2.4f 11s from 350 of the old swell that should decline throughout all day.
So I'm calling for a slow increase of the new NW swell and a slow decline of old NW one and the windswell. A mix of swells that will most likely make me prefer the south shore. Also because I want to give shortboard foiling a second attempt and it will be a lot easier over there.
I'll post beach reports later in the morning, stay tuned for those.
Wind map at noon shows a lovely lack of trades with one local breezes.

North Pacific shows the three fetches we've been seeing for the last theer days:
- the west fetch of Typhoon Lan that finally moved north a bit (west swell rising on Thursday and lasting several days)
- the wide but not very intense NW fetch
- the easterly windswell fetch

South Pacific shows a small fetch SE of New Zealand

Morning sky: no trades, no clouds.

Saturday, October 21, 2017

6.30am Hookipa has head high to overhead waves, a little wind and not clean conditions.

10 21 17 morning call

A short SUP foil session for me in the morning yesterday but a very bad call in the evening made me miss out on more foil fun. Not gonna do that mistake again.

Casper Steinfath took the win in the Red Bull Heavy Water in San Francisco. Here's a photo that shows that the water really was heavy at the start at Ocean beach. How did they manage to go through that stuff?!

Here's a review of the Gofoil Maliko foil.
He's right about the learning being easier on it. That's the foil I use for my windfoil students.
And yesterday I actually managed to swap the back wings between my Maliko and Kai foils (one lined up perfectly, the other needed a small modification of the screw hole, but fitted nice after that), so I'm going to try those combinations too.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No southerly energy at the buoys, we have to wait until tomorrow for that, when a new long period swell should materialize.

North shore
5.7ft @ 13s from 346° (NNW)

3.7ft @ 12s from 334° (NNW)

6.1ft @ 9s from 47° (NE)

As explained below, yesterday's NW swell is now not hitting the NW buoys anymore, but it's still present at the N buoy with a 346 degrees direction. Waimea reads 3.7f 12s, for a change we might get a bit more than that, due to the direction of the angular spreading illustrated below. But it will decline steadily throughout all day. Next NW swell should start tomorrow mid day.

These are the maps of October 16 and 17 that show the fetch of yesterday's NW swell. As you can see, the fetch was first aimed towards us, while today we should get the angular spreading of a swell aimed more towards the mainland west coast. That explains why the energy disappeared at the NW buoys, but it's still some at the N buoy. Don't know where the buoys are? There's a link to a map on GP's list of meteo websites on the right column of this blog.

Wind map at noon shows moderate trades.

North Pacific shows:
- the west fetch from the Typhoon south of Japan that moved very little again
- a wide but not particularly strong NW fetch
- the windswell fetch

South Pacific shows a fetch almost completely blocked by New Zealand.

Morning sky.

Friday, October 20, 2017

7am Hookipa looked pretty big and messy from the distance

Friday 10 20 17 morning call

Below is the 6.3 old board I quickly and easily converted into a foil board thanks to the stick-on Foilmount. It was my first time I tried a prone foil board and it was challenging because of the non ideal conditions. The wave by the jetty at the harbor jacks up pretty quickly and I found myself looking over a shouler/head high ledge while paddling for the set waves. Forget about taking off on such a steep/big section when you don't know where to put your feet to control the foil, so I moved on the inside to catch the white water after the wave broke.

Which I managed to, but I didn't think that standing up in the flats on a shortboard and landing with the feet in the right position would be so difficult with my old and stiff body. I managed to do that a couple of times, and got the foil up with a couple of pumps, but to learn this I need a knee/waist high wave on the south shore, so that I can get up on the face of the wave. It would be a lot easier to land with my feet in the right spot that way. It was fun to try anyway and a good successful test for the mount.

The main reason why I went this way, is that the stick-on mount offers 3 inches of adjustability and I wanted to learn what difference the position of the foil does. I did need to get a tuttle to plate adapter to make it work too. A little extra weight and drag and a little extra length in the foil mast. Gonna learn what that does too.

The experimenting part of this "new" discipline is a big part of the fun for me and for whoever is involved in it. I had the pleasure to share my session with bruddahs Chris and Dave Kalama and the latter kept changing wings to learn about the different setups. That's how you play the game, if you want to play the game.

I know, foiling is not exactly a new discipline (photo below is from 2004), but it's new to most of us anyway.

Before work, I had time to test this 81L Quatro Cube that we just put in the rental fleet at Hi-Tech: great board. I especially liked the MFC fins setup: it never spun out on me. Upper Kanaha was pretty fun and the windswell bumps were getting bigger and bigger the more I sailed away from the shore.
I couldn't help myself imagining Kai Lenny effortlessly linking them on his foil. It was more like Kai Lenny with my face, actually... who knows, maybe one day.

This photo of Jimmie Hepp from this gallery, shows the waves at Hookipa. That's what 10 seconds period looks like.

5am significant buoy readings
South shore

None of the outer buoys shows southerly energy, and the fetch maps of a week ago confirm that, so my bet is that the south shore will be flat to knee high again today (it was yesterday).
Next pulse of southerly energy is due on Sunday.

North shore
4ft @ 13s from 336° (NNW)

3ft @ 15s from 333° (NNW)

9.3ft @ 9s from 38° (NE)

While the windswell is still pumping at Mokapu (hence also in Maui), a new NW ground swell filled in and Waimea shows 3f 15s from 333. Should be similar in Maui too all day, even though the forecast was calling for twice as much size.

Wind map at noon shows trades lighter than the past days.
 But Windguru shows that the lighter winds should only happen tomorrow, we'll see. Look at the lack of wind for next week, unfortunately with some onshore days. Sounds like foiling to me.
Having a lull in the wind just before the windsurfing contest is a good thing, IMO. Statistically, the probability of wind during the waiting period increases, in fact.

North Pacific shows:
- the west fetch out of the typhoon south of Japan. The storm will stay pretty stationary for a few days.
- a strong NW fetch, next week is going to have plenty swell
- a still strong NE windswell fetch

South Pacific shows a small but well positioned fetch east of New Zealand and a much stronger, but very distant one south of the Tasman Sea. Apparently there's a narrow corridor for the swell to reach us (red arrow on the map on the right), but we never know how much energy will manage to pass through the maze of Polynesian islands.

Morning sky.

Thursday, October 19, 2017

7am Hookipa looked pretty bad while the harbor has little waves good for foiling

10 19 17 morning call

Just a longboard session in Lahaina for me yesterday, as the strong trades continue to ruin the surfing conditions on the north shore.

This photo by Stu Gibson obviously caught my attention on Facebook. Wonderful setup somewhere in South America.

A slightly less perfect setup in Ocean Beach in San Francisco will see the Redbull Heavy Water SUP race happening tomorrow with a forecast for massive waves. Not sure if you can see the massacre live, you might want to look it up if you're interested.

Not the cleanest conditions at Hookipa, but the windsurfers continue to rack up hours in the water in preparation for the upcoming Aloha Classic. Photo by Jimmie Hepp from this gallery.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore

SE 2.1ft @ 12s from 86° (E)

That's the only possible southerly energy readings I could find at the outer buoys (I believe the E direction is wrong), and that's a sign that that energy is definitely going down. Flat to knee high is my guess on the size.

North shore
Mokapu 8.2ft @ 9s from 41° (NE)

Pauwela is officially down, but Mokapu shows still a very solid windswell from 41 degrees. Plenty big and rough waves still on offer today on the north shore.

Wind map at noon shows strong trades again.

North Pacific shows:
- a west fetch out of typhoon south of Japan. 2.5f 18s from 279 predicted by Surfline on Thursday 26 and lasting 4 days.
- a well oriented NW fetch in the Kamchatka corner. Related swell predicted by Surfline to peak at 7.5f 18s from 328 on Monday 23, but with possible sets at sundown on Sunday
- the windswell fetch
It also shows that massive fetch still pushing water towards the mainland's west coast, but this time we're definitely out of the swell window. The past days we weren't, and the related swell is predicted by Surfline to hit tomorrow at 6f 15s from 344 in the middle of the day.

South Pacific shows a small/weak fetch NE of New Zealand.

Morning sky.

Wednesday, October 18, 2017

7am south swell is knee high. Lahaina has occasional bigger sets. Peaks was windy. Hookipa had waves, but looked pretty messy from the distance

Wednesday 10 18 17 morning call

Not much action for me yesterday, as my body demanded a rest and my place demanded some cleaning. These are the unclean waves the windsurfers had to deal with for most of the day yesterday at Hookipa in this photo by Jimmie Hepp from this gallery.

We tested the new Quiksilver jacket at Hi-Tech: good stuff. We're taking pre-orders at the moment, the cost is going to be $995. Please tell them you saw it here, if you call to put yourself on the list.

Little secret project on which I'm gonna work today.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore

3.2ft @ 13s from 135° (SE)

The south swell was smaller than the day before yesterday and that's what the forecast predicted. Today the West buoy still shows what reported above and that's a number that should gradually decline throughout the day. Still waves though.

North shore
8ft @ 9s from 51° (ENE)

Surfline still doing a bit of a mess with their buoy page. They added the Pearl Harbor entrance buoy (with no data this morning) and somehow they took Pauwela off (I will let them know that). The Pacioos plot is stuck at Oct 15, so we got to use the indication of Mokapu reported above that shows a still strong 8f 9s windswell from 51. Plenty more messy waves on tap for the north shore.

Wind map at noon maybe shows a bit less wind of the past few days... or maybe is just me hoping that.

North Pacific shows a NE windswell fetch, a distant and small NW fetch and a very strong N fetch oriented towards Alaska from which we should get a bit of angular spreading. The first NW pulse out of these fetches we observed in the past few days will hit Friday at 6f 16s from 343.

South Pacific shows a weak fetch in a nice position just east of New Zealand and a slightly stronger one in a SE position possibly blocked by Big Island.

Morning sky.

Tuesday, October 17, 2017

Tuesday 10 17 17 morning call

Great day of action for me yesterday. The south swell was slow (they always are because of the long distance of travelling, but the angular spreading ones like this one are even more inconsistent), but when the set came there was some solid size at select spots. I surfed one of them and managed to catch this absolute gem.

Here's a challenging drop from a fellow surfer.

After that I joined my friend Kathy for a SUP foiling session that had some moments of epicness. Doesn't look epic to you? That's because you're looking at it with the eyes of the surfer.

Let's see if this helps you understand the beauty of foiling. The clip below shows a wave that was waist high at the takeoff and knee high for the rest of it. Not only it was knee high, but it was so soft that the only other vessel that could have ridden it all the way, is a one man canoe. It would have done that by going straight to the shore though, instead of going left and right (which means, I was going much faster than a straight line to the shore).
At the end I could have cut back left again and beach it, but there were three surfers on my line and I made a personal rule to not get anywhere close to regular surfers when I'm on the foil.
Enjoy the quietness.

Still not convinced?
Then look at the epic surfing wave of the first image. It was head high (well overhead at the take off), clean, blue and with a perfect line. It was obviously a great pleasure to ride it on my newly acquired Tom Parrish 6.10 step-up (craigslist screaming deal!).
Then look again at the super soft knee high wave I rode in the video clip.
Well, I know it's hard to believe, but I had more fun on the second one. Because I felt like a Pelikan gliding in front of the wave, like in the image below. We do a very similar thing on the foil. They use the lift of the air being pushed by face of the wave, we use the lift of the water being pushed by it.

But since everyone is different and like different things, I'll keep reporting about all the water sports and here's Jimmie Hepp's photo of the windsurfers at Hookipa from this gallery, which he very aptly called "big and bumpy".

Unfortunately, the surfline page reporting all the buoys (link n.11 of the GP's meteo websites list on the right) is down again, so I got to get creative here.
Why do I like that page so much? Look at what you get if you go on the NOAA page of the W buoy, for example. Do you see any sign of the southerly energy? No, because the dominant one is the windswell pounding at a solid 8-9f 10s. If you only check the buoys in this way, you would never know that there is a south swell.
Surfline instead takes the raw data from the same buoy and separates all the different swells that are hitting that buoy.
Since that page is down today, we'll have to go by the forecast that is still calling for declining 3f 15s for today.

For the north shore I'm gonna use this plot by PacIOOS instead. 10f 10s are the impressive numbers of the "windswell" still pumping also today. Notice the change of the direction to 39, which reflects yesterday's and today's fetches orientation. If it wasn't for the wind creating chop on the breaking waves, that would have been an epic direction for all the rights on Maui's north shore. The kind of direction that allows you to catch a wave at Green Trees and kickout in the channel.

Wind map at noon shows again strong trades. Kihei should be sheltered again.

North Pacific shows a strong fetch oriented towards Alaska. We might get some angular spreading out of it, but yesterday's fetch was the one that generated the most energy aimed at us. The related NW swell is forecasted by Surfline to peak at 6.4f 16s from 345 on Friday 8am. Good direction for the Bay.

South Pacific shows a beautiful wide fetch SE of New Zealand. Very distant though, so only a couple of feet of long period swell predicted by Surfline in a week.

Morning sky.