Tuesday, March 01, 2005
one of those days… I park the school van at Kanaha at 9 am. I surf Lowers with a 10 footer for a couple of hours. Not too big (some head high sets), but not too crowded either. After one hour I get back in the water with the 12.6 and the sail (a light wind had picked up) for three more hours of fun. Then, one more break (nap in the van) and final session at sunset of longboard sailing. Nice waves, slightly overhead. I move the van from the parking at 7pm… That’s the kind of day I like.