Lately the folks at GoPro sent me a bunch of accessories and mounts for that magic little waterproof camera.
Among those, some little flat mounts with an incredibly adhesive 3M tape. I put it on the front of my 9.0 on a small day (the day before that epic one reported below) to check how tough it was. Unreal. The thing is stuck there and won't come off even if I try to pull it away as strong as I can. It can handle bigger surf for sure.
This day I sat on the shoulder for a few waves and then I took the camera off, put it in my pocket and went on the peak together with the pack of surfers... It was the first time I used the longboard after a while (and you can tell!).
In fact, after having started longboard surfing six years ago, I'm now trying to get into shortboarding (great idea at my age!) and I've been mostly riding a 7.2.
Almost ready for a 6.6. Almost... the lack of practice doesn't help. Fortunately, next week is lining up nicely. A typical winter situation is about to happen, with a front coming close enough to the islands to shut down the trade winds.
The model 8.5 days out shows a couple of winter caliber storms/fetches that should make next week an awesome one for surfing.
We'll see, because... as uncle Pat says, long term estimates are subject to a hell lot of things... low confidence is the latest one.
Ah, the video. Enjoy it... if you can. I promise next one I'll do better than that.