Saturday, September 06, 2008

south swell and the best duck dive photo ever!



The shot above is unreal. It's her first duck dive and her hair is still dry. I really love this shot...

Anyway, the south swell hit Friday (when it was supposed to) and it was a lot of fun in the sun. This guy would agree.


This is out of a sequence of four major top turns that is in the slide below and I probably missed the first three or four... that's why that is one of my favorite waves in Maui (not telling the name not even under torture, otherwise they'll give me shit...).
Too bad there were 40+ people out... not really a secret spot, uh?


Completely different wave (clearly a right). About to get barreled.


Getting worked.


Fully covered with no way out.
They call this wave the world's fastest makeble right. I call it the world's slowest close out...


It's Saturday morning and the swell is still pumping. Unfortunately I'm in a really bad paddling form (last time I surfed was in Oahu around mid July) and yesterday two sessions wore me out. Let's see what I can do today...

I'll leave you with the slide show. If it stops, click on the X in the top right corner to make it start again.


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Lil' Saturday afternoon update. Went surfing again in the morning and sailing in the afternoon... if I was worn out this morning, you can imagine how I feel now!
Here's argentinian Juanma in a beautiful shove-it. Also notice Glenn's new blue Fire.

15 comments:

tormod said...

Hi. Just want to say thanks a lot for the nice blog, and in particular thanks for the film, Jeff at upper's earlier in your blog. It shold really bean nominated to an oscar :-)I have a look at it several times a day,as a preparation for going to Maui later this year again. For me the movie decribe the fun of windsurf. I was on upper in that condition last year and I can in many ways associate me with what happend on the mowie. Looking forward to more clips like that.
And when I come to Maui I will probably buy an camera and test it out.

Lano said...

I didnt even notice she had hair GP, you have fantastic vision!

Brian said...

Great shots GP. I am surprised you noticed the dry hair in the duck dive shot!

cammar said...

Hi Tormod,
I'm glad you liked the Jeff's video. That seems to have hit the spot for a lot of blog readers...
Believe it or not, I didn't realize how good it was until I published it...
Nice description of how you like spending time on the water on your profile.
As you know I love windsurfing, but for me nothing beats the spiritual experience of sitting on a surfboard and reading the ocean waiting for the next good set...
Email me if you need help with car and house for your Maui trip.

Lano and Brian,
I can see some similarities in your humor...
I should say that Brian didn't see Lano's comment when he sent his, because they were both waiting for my approval.
Anyway, OTHER THE THE WONDERFUL ASS, I think that shot is just fantastic. If I had a sequence of photos taken within a 100 of a second of each other of the same duck dive, I believe I would pick that exact shot... very lucky perfect timing!

Olaf said...

Hi GP, I think you mean "Juanma" , Juan Manuel!

Cheers.

jeff E of the Great White North said...

thats "dry to wet" photo is one of the best i have ever seen!! not that i am a pro photo doood or something its just like a photo of a mermaid going back to her watery domain.

cammar said...

Olaf,
that's him. I corrected the post, thanks.
Bloody hell is that guy radical or what? Look how high and horizontal is body is on that shove it and just before that I missed a huge goiter...
Ah, to be that young again... at our age instead, we better be careful with what we do... right?! ;-)
Sending good energy your way for a speedy recovery. Aloha.

Jeff,
that's exactly what she is... good one!

Anonymous said...

GP, There must be two of us since I didn't post the correction. I will accept your kind wishes for my recovery. My progress is good although it is hard to stay in great spirits all the time. Especially when we have waves!
Aloha, Olaf

cammar said...

Oh, I see...

Then I guess the other is the argentinian Olaf who came to Maui in vacation a few months ago.
Well, he's young enough to do shit like that... He bought a set of old cheap Naish sails from me so that he could trash them while perfectioning his rotations...
Hey Olah, how are those sails doing? I bet you destroyed them pretty quickly...

Anyway, cheers to all the Olaf's in the world...

Anonymous said...

"Photography is not like painting," Cartier-Bresson told the Washington Post in 1957. "There is a creative fraction of a second when you are taking a picture. Your eye must see a composition or an expression that life itself offers you, and you must know with intuition when to click the camera. That is the moment the photographer is creative," he said. "Oop! The Moment! Once you miss it, it is gone forever."

Great Photos GP!

Rick

Anonymous said...

Cammar,

did you add 1" of fiberglass-reinforced epoxy to the back of the board???? Gee that mast be heavy???

cammar said...

Thanks, Rick.

Anon,
I didn't add material to the board, I added rocker. Which means that I took out material out of the original shape of the board.
Using a hard sanding paper disk in place of the metal one, a grinder becomes a powerful tool to sand fiberglass. Without it there's no way I could have done it with my hands or even with an electric sander.
After that, I had to re-glass the bottom of the board with two 4 oz layers of fiberglass (and a hot coat of resin only). The overall weigth (considering that I didn't replace the sandwich high density foam) should be less than the original.
The tail is now very fragile, but I don't plan on planing (hehe) or jumping...
BTW, the glass job really sucked. Those rails were a nightmare.

There are other (better!) methods for changing the rocker of a board, but for some reason, I wanted to do it this way... I just wanted to pretend to be a shaper and see how that feels... a lot of fun!

Yesterday there was a small NW swell and I did the first rocks trip of the Hookipa season (september 8th, boy that's early!) and damaged the tail of my big SOS, that now needs to be repaired.
I should stop trying to go left, upwind and backwinded on that section of the last bowl right in front of the rocks, because it always ends in a close out and that is the worse place where to fall.
But that section is sooo sweet!

That means that "The experiment" (that's the new name of the RRD) well might get in the water today!

PonoBill said...

Hair! I didn't notice she had a head!

Great pictures as usual GP. Are you still using that little point and shoot? You get amazing results with the simplest equipment. Real talent.

Olaf said...

yeah! that´s me, I´m the argentinian.
I still have the sails, two of them "explode" after unfinished loop rotation. jaja.

Cheers

Olaf H

Venereae Mulier said...

Wow I love that duckdive shot! xox