Monday, December 03, 2012

maui surfers love light Kona's

What an incredible stretch of good surf we're having!

I absolute love Maui with no wind. And I love it even more when the light Kona's blow.
That's when the north shore of Maui becomes as good as the north shore of Oahu (when light trades are blowing).

All surfers know the huge influence of a few knots of wind on the waves. Onshore will be a catastrophe. Off or side off and it's heaven.

This morning I surfed G-Lanes for two hours (that's when Lanes looks like G-Land... kinda) and I had a blast.
After that (couldn't do more because I went to a party yesterday and I had three stupid beers... that's how demanding of a sport surfing is... and how old of a guy I am!), I sat and took a few photos.

I'll start with the windsurfing, but only because Browsinho did a couple of things that were absolutely remarkable.

He started with this backloop off the lip on his first wave.


You think that was sick?
It sure was (even though he went off the back and didn't land it), but this was 10 times sicker...
Table top off the lip, perfectly landed well in front of the white water.
One of the sickest moves I've ever seen, considering the extremely light sideoff wind.
He just timed it to perfection. Respect.


Only three sailors went out before the wind got way too light.
It was all about the surfing then.
Alan Cadiz on a smooth beauty.


This should give you an idea of the quality of the waves.


Many, many small barrels on offer at the point. This swell was 6 feet, 13 seconds. Had it been 16 seconds, the barrels would have been bigger. And I probably would have not paddled out.
Those three seconds made all the difference for me. I didn't get scared once.
One day maybe I'll explain what the period does to a wave when it hits the reef using the pizza dough analogy... no time tonight.


This guy got barreled almost every wave he took. He knew how to pick them.


One of the nicest girls in the lineup. Great duck diver too.




Wheels are out... planes landing Kona style.

That's Mr. Barrel again.

Life is good. I don't even check the forecast anymore. It's winter in Hawaii... wind, no wind... who cares. There's waves.

4 comments:

WW said...

We're still here, I'm sure I speak for many.
There's lots of non-FBers out there who wait patiently. =]

cammar said...

thank you.

Anonymous said...

....for sure every second day :-))
greetings from freezing
Germany, Torsten

Carlos y Leti said...

Done
I knew you via this blog
carlos from spain