6.30am lahaina side has knee to waist high sets. Windy at ukumehame. Bit bigger in town with clean conditions. Didn't look at Hookipa, but it was windy at home when I left.
Monday, March 05, 2018
Monday 3 5 18 morning call
A shortboard and a longboard session for me yesterday. Here's one of those crazy images of Clark Little. You can buy his prints here.
3-4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, but that doesn't mean that the south swell is completely gone. The Surfline forecast still calls for 1.8f 12s.
North shore
N
5.6ft @ 12s from 341° (NNW)
Pauwela
5.2ft @ 9s from 84° (E)
Lovely northerly energy at Pauwela, while the easterly windswell is slowly coming down, but only temporarily, as a new round of strong trades is about to hit us again starting Saturday. And in the meantime they're still going to blow moderate, not calm. Yeah, it's been windy.
The good news is that this time, in addition to the strong windswell, we're going to have plenty energy from the north. I predict Honolua to be breaking for the next couple of weeks (it was already yesterday at sunset).
Wind map at noon.
North Pacific shows the northerly fetch we saw the last couple of days getting closer to us. Vicinity will be the main factor for a swell that Surfline predicts to peak at 5f 15s tomorrow afternoon. It actually predicts it to be 6f 12s on Wednesday morning, but 5f 15s will make for bigger breakers than 6f 12s.
South Pacific shows nothing of relevance.
Morning call.
3-4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, but that doesn't mean that the south swell is completely gone. The Surfline forecast still calls for 1.8f 12s.
North shore
N
5.6ft @ 12s from 341° (NNW)
Pauwela
5.2ft @ 9s from 84° (E)
3.7ft @ 13s from 346° (NNW)
2.8ft @ 6s from 72° (ENE)
1.9ft @ 11s from 4° (N
Lovely northerly energy at Pauwela, while the easterly windswell is slowly coming down, but only temporarily, as a new round of strong trades is about to hit us again starting Saturday. And in the meantime they're still going to blow moderate, not calm. Yeah, it's been windy.
The good news is that this time, in addition to the strong windswell, we're going to have plenty energy from the north. I predict Honolua to be breaking for the next couple of weeks (it was already yesterday at sunset).
Wind map at noon.
North Pacific shows the northerly fetch we saw the last couple of days getting closer to us. Vicinity will be the main factor for a swell that Surfline predicts to peak at 5f 15s tomorrow afternoon. It actually predicts it to be 6f 12s on Wednesday morning, but 5f 15s will make for bigger breakers than 6f 12s.
South Pacific shows nothing of relevance.
Morning call.
Sunday, March 04, 2018
Sunday 3 4 18 morning call
A longboard and a SUP foiling session for me yesterday. This is what Dave Kalama posted yesterday together with the photo below.
"Every failure, a chance to learn something new. Every loss, a chance to truly appreciate what we had. Every triumph, a chance to be humble. Every fear, an opportunity to conquer and grow. Every bad experience or emotion is an opportunity to harden your metal and yet acknowledge that life needs balance with highs and lows. If surfing has taught me anything, it’s that I have so much to learn."
To which I commented:"great attitude. Lately instead, I had a customer at the shop that only windsurfs and said he doesn't want to learn a new sport:"I never want to be a beginner again!".
Too bad for him...
4am significant buoy readings
South shore
SW
3.4ft @ 12s from 148° (SE)
SE
2.8ft @ 13s from 142° (SE)
South swell got into the waist to shoulder high range yesterday with even occasional head high sets and with good conditions in Lahaina all day due to the overcast sky. Today the south swell is up to 3f but down to 12-13s, hopefully a bit more consistent than yesterday, but probably not by much, as it is an angular spreading one.
North shore
NW101
4.1ft @ 12s from 308° (WNW)
Pauwela
6.6ft @ 9s from 89° (E)
Below is the graph of the two reported buoys (with the unimpressive rise of the new NW swell circled in red) together with the Surfline forecast for the next three days. As you can see, this swell is not predicted to much bigger than it is now, but they have a similar more north swell overlapping to it. Monday/Tuesday a bigger N swell (red line) will reach 5-6f 14-12s. Unfortunately the conditions on the north shore will be poor due to the trades.
Wind map at noon.
North Pacific shows the N fetch that will be responsible for the Monday/Tuesday swell and the east fetch, now down to marginal dimensions after a couple of weeks of relentless wave generation.
Nothing of relevance in the South Pacific.
Morning sky.
"Every failure, a chance to learn something new. Every loss, a chance to truly appreciate what we had. Every triumph, a chance to be humble. Every fear, an opportunity to conquer and grow. Every bad experience or emotion is an opportunity to harden your metal and yet acknowledge that life needs balance with highs and lows. If surfing has taught me anything, it’s that I have so much to learn."
To which I commented:"great attitude. Lately instead, I had a customer at the shop that only windsurfs and said he doesn't want to learn a new sport:"I never want to be a beginner again!".
Too bad for him...
4am significant buoy readings
South shore
SW
3.4ft @ 12s from 148° (SE)
SE
2.8ft @ 13s from 142° (SE)
South swell got into the waist to shoulder high range yesterday with even occasional head high sets and with good conditions in Lahaina all day due to the overcast sky. Today the south swell is up to 3f but down to 12-13s, hopefully a bit more consistent than yesterday, but probably not by much, as it is an angular spreading one.
North shore
NW101
4.1ft @ 12s from 308° (WNW)
Pauwela
6.6ft @ 9s from 89° (E)
2.9ft @ 14s from 353° (N)
Below is the graph of the two reported buoys (with the unimpressive rise of the new NW swell circled in red) together with the Surfline forecast for the next three days. As you can see, this swell is not predicted to much bigger than it is now, but they have a similar more north swell overlapping to it. Monday/Tuesday a bigger N swell (red line) will reach 5-6f 14-12s. Unfortunately the conditions on the north shore will be poor due to the trades.
Wind map at noon.
North Pacific shows the N fetch that will be responsible for the Monday/Tuesday swell and the east fetch, now down to marginal dimensions after a couple of weeks of relentless wave generation.
Nothing of relevance in the South Pacific.
Morning sky.
Saturday, March 03, 2018
Saturday 3 3 18 morning call
A longboard session and one reach of windfoiling for me yesterday, as the conditions for a foiling downwind did not materialize. No shots of the day, here's an image from Ben Thouard.
4am significant buoy readings
South shore
W
6.5ft @ 10s from 94° (E)
1.5ft @ 15s from 142° (SE)
SW
9.7ft @ 10s from 92° (E)
2ft @ 15s from 138° (SE)
Nice couple of long period southerly readings at the buoys. The SE direction is not correct as it's influenced by the strong easterly windswell hitting the buoys at the same time, but we don't particularly care about that. Yesterday I posted the collage of the fetches that made this swell, you look at their position and you know the direction. Stay tuned for a beach report from the Lahaina side later this morning. Yesterday it was still all about the refracted windswell.
North shore
Pauwela
North Pacific shows a couple of small fractional fetches (the main fetch is oriented towards somewhere else, as the red arrows show) and the easterly fetch getting shorter and shorter.
Nothing of relevance in the South Pacific.
Morning sky.
4am significant buoy readings
South shore
W
6.5ft @ 10s from 94° (E)
1.5ft @ 15s from 142° (SE)
SW
9.7ft @ 10s from 92° (E)
2ft @ 15s from 138° (SE)
Nice couple of long period southerly readings at the buoys. The SE direction is not correct as it's influenced by the strong easterly windswell hitting the buoys at the same time, but we don't particularly care about that. Yesterday I posted the collage of the fetches that made this swell, you look at their position and you know the direction. Stay tuned for a beach report from the Lahaina side later this morning. Yesterday it was still all about the refracted windswell.
North shore
Pauwela
6.7ft @ 10s from 95° (E)
4.5ft @ 6s from 79° (ENE)
Still purely windswell on the north shore. Got to wait until tomorrow to possibly see something different.
Wind map at noon.
North Pacific shows a couple of small fractional fetches (the main fetch is oriented towards somewhere else, as the red arrows show) and the easterly fetch getting shorter and shorter.
Nothing of relevance in the South Pacific.
Morning sky.
Friday, March 02, 2018
Friday 3 2 18 morning call
A couple of waves caught on a longboard was my only water action yesterday, as windsurfing didn't convince me again, not even at sunset. Today instead I'll try a SUP foiling downwinder, because Dave Kalama told me to do so in this post he did yesterday:
"I think humans are so attracted to flying because we’re not supposed to fly. We definitely didn’t evolve in that direction. So why the attraction? For that very reason, we’re weren’t meant to. Meaning, we don’t take it for granted. It’s like magic every single time. Our genes don’t have a predisposition to expect it. Much like a bird innately flies, it literally expects to. Which makes me think we enjoy it more than a bird does. I know that over this last year of foiling, the ...flying aspect has reinvigorated my enthusiasm and stoke for being on the water to levels I never thought I would experience again, like the first time I planned on a windsurfer. I thought I was flying. So while I babble on trying to describe it with words like freedom, exhilaration, weightlessness it keeps coming back to one of the most prominent themes in my life. FUN! Now go get it!"
Here he's with a friend during one of the many downwinders the good guys have done in this week of strong easterly.
Photos by Jeremy Riggs.
A different explanation of why the feeling of flying is so attractive to humans is offered in this excellent 17 minutes video I watched yesterday. Very profound and highly recommended.
Jaws pioneer Marcio Freire is hosting a party Saturday to launch his book. Here's the facebook page.
5am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 0.5f 12s. Tomorrow and Sunday there should be a bigger pulse (up to almost 2f 14s), but, for lack of a better choice, I might cruise on the Lahaina side today to check if there's something in the water already. Below is the collage of the maps of Feb 22, 23 and 24 that suggests me to do so. Will report if I do, but unfortunately, the Kihei shore break webcam only shows some kind of refracted windswell, so I'm not really sure.
North shore
Pauwela
7.4ft @ 10s from 85° (E)
East swell on the decline at the Pauwela buoy, still plenty energy at the exposed breaks.
Wind map at noon shows strong easterly wind.
North Pacific shows a WNW fetch and the easterly one, now not as deep as it's been for the last two weeks or so.
Nothing of relevance in the South Pacific.
Morning sky.
"I think humans are so attracted to flying because we’re not supposed to fly. We definitely didn’t evolve in that direction. So why the attraction? For that very reason, we’re weren’t meant to. Meaning, we don’t take it for granted. It’s like magic every single time. Our genes don’t have a predisposition to expect it. Much like a bird innately flies, it literally expects to. Which makes me think we enjoy it more than a bird does. I know that over this last year of foiling, the ...flying aspect has reinvigorated my enthusiasm and stoke for being on the water to levels I never thought I would experience again, like the first time I planned on a windsurfer. I thought I was flying. So while I babble on trying to describe it with words like freedom, exhilaration, weightlessness it keeps coming back to one of the most prominent themes in my life. FUN! Now go get it!"
Here he's with a friend during one of the many downwinders the good guys have done in this week of strong easterly.
Photos by Jeremy Riggs.
A different explanation of why the feeling of flying is so attractive to humans is offered in this excellent 17 minutes video I watched yesterday. Very profound and highly recommended.
Jaws pioneer Marcio Freire is hosting a party Saturday to launch his book. Here's the facebook page.
5am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 0.5f 12s. Tomorrow and Sunday there should be a bigger pulse (up to almost 2f 14s), but, for lack of a better choice, I might cruise on the Lahaina side today to check if there's something in the water already. Below is the collage of the maps of Feb 22, 23 and 24 that suggests me to do so. Will report if I do, but unfortunately, the Kihei shore break webcam only shows some kind of refracted windswell, so I'm not really sure.
North shore
Pauwela
7.4ft @ 10s from 85° (E)
4.9ft @ 11s from 99° (E)
2.4ft @ 4s from 73° (ENE)
East swell on the decline at the Pauwela buoy, still plenty energy at the exposed breaks.
Wind map at noon shows strong easterly wind.
North Pacific shows a WNW fetch and the easterly one, now not as deep as it's been for the last two weeks or so.
Nothing of relevance in the South Pacific.
Morning sky.
Thursday, March 01, 2018
Thursday 3 1 18 morning call
Just a shortboard session for me yesterday, but a very fun one. The photos of the day are dedicated to the lady surfers. This is my friend Danielle.
This young lady is from Holland and has been in Maui for a couple of months. She'll be here two more weeks training before the start of the junior WQS tour which will happen in Portugal. Pretty good surfer.
Frothy one.
A top turn with a view.
At Hookipa the windsurfing conditions were at moments borderline ok for my taste, but I still couldn't find the motivation to go out.
4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 0.5 12s.
North shore
Pauwela
8.3ft @ 12s from 90° (E)
Easterly swell up to 12s, but from a straight east direction. Depending on the spot exposure, you might find more energy from the 9s component that has a tiny bit of north in it.
Wind map at noon shows strong easterly trades.
North Pacific shows:
- a new small W fetch
- a small NW fetch (third day)
- the very long lasting E fetch
South Pacific shows a small fetch.
Morning sky.
This young lady is from Holland and has been in Maui for a couple of months. She'll be here two more weeks training before the start of the junior WQS tour which will happen in Portugal. Pretty good surfer.
Frothy one.
A top turn with a view.
At Hookipa the windsurfing conditions were at moments borderline ok for my taste, but I still couldn't find the motivation to go out.
4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 0.5 12s.
North shore
Pauwela
8.3ft @ 12s from 90° (E)
7.6ft @ 9s from 78° (ENE)
Easterly swell up to 12s, but from a straight east direction. Depending on the spot exposure, you might find more energy from the 9s component that has a tiny bit of north in it.
Wind map at noon shows strong easterly trades.
North Pacific shows:
- a new small W fetch
- a small NW fetch (third day)
- the very long lasting E fetch
South Pacific shows a small fetch.
Morning sky.
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