Saturday, January 29, 2005
Hookipa 8am. Big and glassy. Still inconsistent though. “let me try…” For a couple of hours I enjoy riding those water mountains. Then a huge set comes. One of those that break like a single line all the way from Pavillions to Lanes… 3 surfers make it out, all the others (me included) are spit on the inside. After 5 big waves on the head, I decide that I had enough and I catch the sixth one’s white water to go to the beach. Still in time to see how wonderful the bay of Hookipa looks. It’s all white, looks like snow. And I notice that I’m not the only one that gave up. About 30 surfers come out the water after me. Wow! It picked up pretty quick!