Wednesday, January 26, 2005
one of those days… So much surf yesterday gave a board shorts rush (I’m not gonna specify exactly where…), but I can’t lay down. So I go for a session of stand up paddle surfing with my 12.6. Outer reef of upper Kanaha. I catch three waves completely alone, but the rides are short, because the waves are not quite big enough for that reef and they lose steepness pretty soon. So I move to Lowers, where instead, logo high sets break on the shallower reef. Super steep take off and fast ride on the right. The wind picks up and in less than 5 minutes I replace the paddle with the sail and for an hour it’s me, three kitesurfers and three surfers… The wind picks up a little stronger and a bunch of windsurfers show up to claim their share. No problem, I need a rest anyway. Let me save some energy for the sunset session. I get back in the water at 5pm and the wind gets lighter and lighter. All the other windsurfers disappear and around 6 it’s only me out there! The sets are still logo high, what a blast! At 6.35 I go for the last wave (it’s getting dark)… shit! That damn last wave broke my mast. Not too bad. I wrap everything on the board and paddle to the shore, where I get at 7 in complete darkness… and a mile downwind. Could have been worse… Memorable day.