today, I surfed Hookipa. It was pretty damn big. I caught two waves and that was enough...
then, at sunset, I surfed a secret spot on the north shore (photo above) where, instead, it was waiste high with two shoulder high bombs when almost dark... I just wanted to practice a little shortboarding and I ended up having a hell lot of fun.
2 comments:
pretty awesome and impressive! It looks like Waimea, I couldn't even dare thinking about surfing this!
Dude, Waimea would be three times bigger...
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