Monday, January 31, 2005

Monday 1-31-05

one hour surf at lower Kanaha in the morning before an onshore wind ruined the nice, head high, easy and fun conditions.

Sunday, January 30, 2005

Sunday 1-30-05

another of those days… In the morning I surf Pier one for the first time, head high sometimes overhead. Very nice right that allows a couple of cut backs in the final section. Light trade wind in the afternoon and very fun session of longboard sailing at Kanaha. Waves are logo high… sooo much fun!
7 out of 7 this week. And great conditions! This week deserves a 10! Also considering the incredible sun. In Italy it’s snowing everywhere…

Saturday, January 29, 2005

Saturday 1-29-05

Hookipa 8am. Big and glassy. Still inconsistent though. “let me try…” For a couple of hours I enjoy riding those water mountains. Then a huge set comes. One of those that break like a single line all the way from Pavillions to Lanes… 3 surfers make it out, all the others (me included) are spit on the inside. After 5 big waves on the head, I decide that I had enough and I catch the sixth one’s white water to go to the beach. Still in time to see how wonderful the bay of Hookipa looks. It’s all white, looks like snow. And I notice that I’m not the only one that gave up. About 30 surfers come out the water after me. Wow! It picked up pretty quick!

Friday, January 28, 2005


Photo: still smiling even with a snapped board... of course! Look at the sunshine and at the waves!

Friday 1-28-05

waves are slightly smaller. Hookipa is still overhead, but doable. I fall on a take off and a bomb breaks my longboard in two nice pieces. But it’s an incredible sunny day and instead of being pissed off, I get my backup longboard and go surfing again in the afternoon. Tomorrow another big NW swell is due.

Thursday, January 27, 2005

Thursday 1-27-05

More standing up action at Lowers. Veeeery long rights. The wind picks up and just like yesterday I replace the paddle with the sail for some more great rides. At sunset, the wind dies. Oh look, the paddle is still here… more waves. What another day!

Wednesday, January 26, 2005

Wednesday 1-26-05

one of those days… So much surf yesterday gave a board shorts rush (I’m not gonna specify exactly where…), but I can’t lay down. So I go for a session of stand up paddle surfing with my 12.6. Outer reef of upper Kanaha. I catch three waves completely alone, but the rides are short, because the waves are not quite big enough for that reef and they lose steepness pretty soon. So I move to Lowers, where instead, logo high sets break on the shallower reef. Super steep take off and fast ride on the right. The wind picks up and in less than 5 minutes I replace the paddle with the sail and for an hour it’s me, three kitesurfers and three surfers… The wind picks up a little stronger and a bunch of windsurfers show up to claim their share. No problem, I need a rest anyway. Let me save some energy for the sunset session. I get back in the water at 5pm and the wind gets lighter and lighter. All the other windsurfers disappear and around 6 it’s only me out there! The sets are still logo high, what a blast! At 6.35 I go for the last wave (it’s getting dark)… shit! That damn last wave broke my mast. Not too bad. I wrap everything on the board and paddle to the shore, where I get at 7 in complete darkness… and a mile downwind. Could have been worse… Memorable day.

Tuesday, January 25, 2005

Tuesday 1-25-05

the waves are too big at Hookipa, but they are just fantastic at lower Kanaha. Three hours of absolute fun. Later in the afternoon a very light breeze allows me to enjoy a longboard sailing session on the same reef.

Monday, January 24, 2005

Monday 1-24-05

fantastic morning surf session at Hookipa. Sunny, slightly overhead and not too crowded. Monday morning magic? Right, but what about the sunset session then? Shoulder high waves, superglassy, and still not too many people (there has been a lot of waves and there will be even more). I get in the water at 5.30pm with a 7.7 and I have a lot of fun.

Sunday, January 23, 2005

Sunday 1-23-05

I surf Hookipa in the morning. Fantastic. Slightly overhead, glassy and sunny. What to wish more? Maybe a little less people…
This week I got in the water 6 days out of 7. Not too shabby. But I can do better….

Saturday, January 22, 2005

Saturday 1-22-05

great day! With a very light trade wind, I try to sail with my 12.6 longboard and a 5.5 sail. The waves at Kanaha are logo high and the wind is so light that I can only go upwind backside. Still, a lot of fun. When the wind dies, I get rid of the sail and get my paddle for a session of stand-up paddle surf. Some take offs are so freaking steep…

Friday, January 21, 2005

Friday 1-21-05

smaller waves again, but they look still fun. I’m about to get in the water when the wind turns from offshore to onshore. Forget about it. Not too bad. Tomorrow another swell is arriving.

Thursday, January 20, 2005

Thursday 1-20-05

smaller waves, I surf Hookipa shoulder to head high. Sometimes the offshore wind is a little too strong, but the sun is strong and the color of the water is incredible.

Wednesday, January 19, 2005


perfect left at Middles

Wednesday 1-19-05

just like yesterday. Waves are slightly smaller, but still fun at Kanaha. Hookipa is epic (see photo above), but three weeks of eggplant parmesan put a little me out of shape…

Tuesday, January 18, 2005

Monday, January 17, 2005

Monday 1-17-05

the big swell goes a little bit down and so it’s time for me to try sailing Kanaha with the Kona. Super difficult, off-shore and gusty, some sets are still mast high. I basically survive…

Sunday, January 16, 2005


Seeger at Lanes

Sunday 1-16-05

I'm back after my usual Christmas vacation in Italy! I land in Maui in the afternoon just in time to see Robby Seeger ripping some incredible waves at Lanes with the Kona wind. See photo above.