Thursday, December 29, 2005
weather map of Dec 29th. As you can see comparing it to the ones below, the fetch has moved west at roughly 600nm per day, which is the speed at which those waves were travelling (thanks to Pat Caldwell for the info). That means that the winds have been pushing the same waves for three days, following them over the ocean. This situation is called "captured" fetch, and it's one of the key ingredients for big swells. The tow crew will be probably at Jaws wit thir stinky jet skis and the other outer reefs. You know where to find me...
Weather map of Dec 27th. The low on the right is the one that generated the NW swell we are surfing right now and then moved east and is sending huge waves to the west coast. The one on the left is the new monster low responsible for the new NW swell that will arrive Friday. See above maps and you'll understand why it's gonna be giant surf again...
Wednesday, December 28, 2005
today, I surfed Hookipa. It was pretty damn big. I caught two waves and that was enough...
then, at sunset, I surfed a secret spot on the north shore (photo above) where, instead, it was waiste high with two shoulder high bombs when almost dark... I just wanted to practice a little shortboarding and I ended up having a hell lot of fun.
Tuesday, December 27, 2005
Monday 12 26. Great waves thanks to a large NW swell. I surfed Kanaha in the morning and at sunset. The second session was absolutely epic. Glassy, beautiful colors, all friends around. Meanwhile, many tow-iners scored Jaws, but I don't really care about that. Sharon, instead, scored the harbor. She saw Laird launching the jet ski there and pulling into a rogue wave that suddenly filled in, just to warm up. She even sent me a picture of that... What? It doesn't look like the harbor? The thing is that the wave is so big that covers the cruise ship in the background...
Anyways, this Christmas in Maui is unbelievable. Not a cloud, not a puff of wind, only tons of swells. Not too shabby.
Thursday, December 22, 2005
Two very different ways to enjoy life. Cruising the Hawaiian islands on a big cruise ship and surfing in the Kahului harbor. I personally prefer the latter. But not only a little. Like 100 to 1! Thanks to the old Hawaiians for inventing surfing. The coolest thing in the world. In my humble opinion, of course.
One of the signs says:"no dumping"... On the way to Kanaha you can see things like this. Another example? Wild chikens living in the bush, crossing right in front of your car with a very bad timing... Hey they're chikens, they're not supposed to know how to cross a road! And they're probably not the smartest animal on heart. Still, it's pretty cool to still see some wild life in a place were the bad impact of the humans is quite evident... Better than the tire in the photo. I'm tired of tires. Is that a joke? I don't know, it's so hard to make jokes in a foreign language... Forgive me.
Sunday, December 18, 2005
Lanes Dec 18 2005, unknown sailor. There we go, it's show time again. Josh Stone went out very early and said that his 4.4 was way too big. The waves... you can see by yourself. Very, very difficult.
Well, since it's all relative, I had my extreme emotions too. I waited patiently for the Kona wind to slow down a notch and I scored one hour at 4.30pm at Kanaha with the longboard and a 5.0. Not as big as Lanes, of course, but still freaking scary... I am extremely happy to have been out there. With me, sailing on a short board Dave Osborne and surfing on his longboard Jeff Henderson (who earlier sailed Kanaha on a 3.7!). I believe we will all remember the beauty of those waves.
Friday, December 16, 2005
Monday, December 12, 2005
I could not understand what those comets were, once I saw this photo on the screen of my computer, when I finally recalled that it was lightly raining and very windy when I took it. And I used the flash. So I believe those are the drops of rain caught in their fall. Some of them go upright? Not too surprising... must have been a strong gust...
Quity trippy anyway, uh?
This house in Makawao is the winner of tonight's Chistmas ornaments hunting session. Unbelievable. With the money they spend on electricity for that shit they could easily buy a few good meals for a starving child in Africa... Is this a fucked up world or what?
Sunday 12 12. Again, I wanted to stay away from the Hookipa zoo and I choosed to go to Launiupoko. Sunny, knee high waves, peace, fun. This guy seems to be enjoying too... Hey I need a feedback from the old blog users. As explained a few pics later, I'm using a different technique to upload photos. Do you guys think that opening the blog and/or the photos is slower than before? Is the watermelon photo slower to open than the others (it's a 800KB file. the other photos are less then 200KB)? Please post a comment to this post and let me know your feedback.
This is an experiment. The damn sw to upload the photos on the blog is still not working, so I'm trying "manually". The photo shows the incredible conditions that, once again, Hookipa offered on Wednesday nov 30. It's a bit old, but, again, this is an experiment... Hey, I just checked it. Not too bad. Actually the photo size is even bigger, especially when you click on it, that may mean that I may run out of space soon... we'll see. So now I can post again...
Tuesday, December 06, 2005
The damn sw to upload the photos is not working again. Sorry, I have no idea why. In the meantime, just stick to the forecast. Friday we'll have a giant swell coming from WNW. Start thinking where to go surf... Forget about Hookipa and Kanaha. West side? Waiehu side? Harbor? Hanamanou? La Perouse?? Oh well, maybe it's not going to be that big in Maui, since from that direction we get the block of: Niihau, Kauai, Oahu, Molokai and Lanai. Basically only Kahoolawe and Big Island won't block it...
Am I complaining? Not at all. Maui is still no ka oi.
Am I complaining? Not at all. Maui is still no ka oi.