What a great session I just had!
I went out standing up with the paddle on my 12.6 at Lanes. It was my first time standup-paddling there. I always surf the more mellow Kanaha, instead. When I got out there were like 5 surfers on the peak of the left. So I had to stay deeper inside. I cought a few big ones, but they ended up in close outs. After a while, the surfers left and I was left alone. I moved on the peak and I had a few incredible rides. The waves were absolutely glassy. The clouds and the whole sky were of a tone of grey that looked almost fake... It was perfection! Absolute beauty.
Shortly I was joined by Sean Ordonez, who was standup-paddling too.
"Man, I saw you catching some good ones", he said.
I mean, let's sit down for a moment and think.
Five years ago, before moving to Maui I was having a "normal" life. I had a regular job, I lived in a big town and, pretty much, I didn't really like it. To escape my inner discomfort, I did as often as I could one of the things that I loved most: windsurfing. It was like breathing for me.
Of course, I was reading the windsurfing magazines and I was dreaming about how great it would be to do the life that people like Sean were doing. I don't mean the contests and the photos in the magazines (which, by the way, now I have too :)). I mean their life always in the ocean, their deep knowledge of it.
Five years later, here I am. Catching waves in epic conditions on the reef of Lanes in Maui, Hawaii.
And Sean Ordonez comes out of nowhere to tell me with a big friendly smile:""Man, I saw you catching some good ones"...
You got to be fucking kidding me!!!
When I got out of the water I was so high on the stoke... I'm still shaking at home.
And if I close my eyes now, guess what I see? I see the lines... and if you're a surfer, you know what I'm talking about...
So, since writing would get a bit tricky with my eyes shut, it's time to say goodbye to you guys. I just saw a big set coming...