Tuesday, December 02, 2008

how Kazuma shaped my custom surfboard part 6

We are now in Matt's shaping room.
This is my favorite clip of the series. I just love the way Matt pulls that screen and gives the rails the shape he wants...

video

We're not done yet, stay tuned for more.

In the meantime, I need to report about an outstanding session I just had with my 6.10 Kazuma that you just saw in the video. The new NW swell is picking up quite quickly. The NW buoy reads 12 feet, 15 seconds at 9am... that means that in the afternoon, most spots will be unrideble.
Instead, I timed it right and scored early morning head to overhead high perfectly peeling lefts with light offshore and just three other guys out. At the first double overhead set, I wisely decided to quit...
Absolutely stoked! Can't believe I was able to stick those steep drops...

Now a little rest (and a little post) and maybe later I'll go explore some outer reefs with the standup... what a life!

A look at the forecast. Today's weather map shows one more impressive fetch. That is going to be the most west of the three swells and that is actually a good thing, since some spots in Kahului hopefully won't be too big. Will be here Thursday and Friday. A sporadic light trades episode might even make it sailable on Friday.
If you read this from an island of French Polinesia, Fiji, Tahiti or anywhere else down there, get ready for an unusually big swell on your north shores...


PS. Crazy conditions at Sunset beach. I just watched Rodrigo Dornellas dropping in a bomb that looked like five or six times overhead... he got a 9.43 for that!

5 comments:

meesh said...

all time kanaha this afternoon too GP. It was not filling there like the Ho, peeling lefts, glassy, not many others to share the waves with (ahhh love it) so it would seem an abundant session by all :) love winter

cammar said...

Winter rocks.
I couldn't care less about the wind if we have waves like these. I still haven't shaked the perfection of those morning waves off my skin... hope I won't till the next sesh!
Next time I see you, I'll tell you the "secret" spot... start guessing.
I missed Kanaha, I was too tired to paddle out...

Pål Rype said...

ive been on Maui for almost two months now. been a great trip with lots of wind and waves. i dont miss the wind that much either. surfing is so much fun also ! its cool to have some different toys to get out in different conditions. i guess you have heard it before Cammar,but youre lucky to be living here !

cammar said...

Pal,
my luck was to be born in a peaceful western country in a family that allowed me to get an education.
The fact that I managed to move to and live in Maui is actually not due much to luck, but to my balls and brain... and I'm quite proud of both!
But I know what you mean and I am thankful for every morning I wake up in this wonderful place.

Yes, different toys for different conditions, I definitely heard that before...

Ray said...

Awesome clip GP, interesting to see how he shapes the rail, looks like a very personal process.