But there were waves and if you knew where to go you could score. I did twice.
No action photos from yesterday, this is one of those amazing Tahiti photos by Ben Thouard.
The buoys are up, Pauwela's 5am reading is a beautiful 12.3ft @ 13s from 359° (N) . Straight north is one of my favorite directions and it is usually associated with short/medium periods and very high consistency. As a matter of fact, in my second session yesterday, I caught the first 9 waves without having a chance to sit down on the board. It was a merry go round that ended with a total of about 15 in an hour.
Swells have different characteristics and that introduces a big element of variety in the practice of a discipline that might appear repetitive... but that's only to the eyes of who don't do it.
Another element of variety is riding different boards, and that's one of my favorite ways of changing it up. I respect surfers that only ride one board, but that for me is the equivalent of being married in a field in which you're not required to be monogamous.
MC2km map at noon shows light sideonish trades on the north shore.
Wind maps shows a small WNW fetch and the N one that has generated the actual swell still up there stirring waves. Thank you darling, you've been wonderful.
I did a Windity run and I liked what I saw. Light offshore winds and another big storm forming (related swell forecasted by Surfline at 13f 16s at 8am Thursday 31st), winter is far from over.
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