Wednesday, January 31, 2018

Wednesday 1 31 18 morning call

A shortboard and a windsurf session for me yesterday. I also took the photos below.
This is one of my favorite waves to shoot with the Kona, they all look good with it, but this one in particular becomes something else.

Bruddah Cruz.

The Jetty was doing its thing.

Outside too.

After a free fall drop, this guy managed to get in the barrel and come out clean.

This is going to be a different kind of free fall... straight to the bottom. My estimate of the distance between his head and the water is at least 3m. We all know how much higher than the pictures that feels when you're up there.

The camera focused on the spray of the wave in front, but I want to post this anyway because it shows bodyboard extraordinaire Jacob Romero dropping in a bomb with such a long wall that it seemed impossible for me to come out of the barrel.

23 shots later instead he came flying out waaay down the line.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for pretty much nothing.
North shore
4.6ft @ 12s from 327° (NW)
5.1ft @ 13s from 349° (NNW)
5.1ft @ 13s from 1° (N)
4.7ft @ 10s from 73° (ENE)
Yesterday's N swell peaked and today it's predicted to slowly decline throughout the day. Might be up to 2f and 1s less at sunset, but starting at 5f 13s there's still gonna be waves all day. Let's also not forget the resilient easterly swell still in the water.
Below is the collage of the wind maps at the hours I wrote in red. As you can see, the early morning will have Kona wind in the Kahului area (blowing 19mps at 5am while I'm typing), but not in the Hookipa area. Around 9am the Kona will reach Hookipa. At noon it will start lightening up. At 2pm a switch should start happening and at 4pm it should be light onshore. 6pm looks lighter.
The knowledge of what the wind is going to do is MUCH more important of the knowledge of what the swell is going to do.

The information provided by this model is 36 hours old (as such, it's not quite as reliable as the good old defunct Maui County @2km), it's a little unfriendly to use (got to change the "tau" parameter to see the different times), but it's still the best available out there (link n. -4), so I want to thank my friend Dan who takes care of updating it.

North Pacific shows a pretty big NW fetch.

Lovely Tasman Sea fetch in the South Pacific

Morning sky. The front is on Oahu at the moment and it's passing over us will cause the wind changes illustrated above.

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