Monday 2-21-05

a new NW swell gets on the Hawaiian north shores and the wind dies as it often does in winter time (love that!). Fantastic conditions at lower Kanaha. Head high, sometimes overhead. With a 10 footer I catch 20 waves in 2 hours, one every 6 minutes. Considering that between ride and paddle out it takes about 3 minutes (it a quite long ride), that means 3 minutes average waiting time. More frequent than the London underground! A wave machine!! Too tired for the sunset session, I’ll surf tomorrow…