Last two sunset sessions have been pretty damn good.
Here's a photo from yesterday. The more I look at it, the more I like it. Mostly, because it's me. And, on top of that, I can't really find something particularly wrong with what I'm doing.
I'm quite low (but not too low), I'm in the right place, I'm looking at the spot where to do the bottom turn, I'm checking a brasilian ass with my peripheral vision... (you can't really tell this from the photo, but I remember it quite well...).
And look at the spray off the lip of the wave, look at the color of the ocean, look at the sunlight reflected on my blonde hair... ;-)
Sharon, once again, thanks a lot for taking what I think is the best surfing photo I have of myself. It's a great shot. I'll order a printout at Costo... if they still let me in!
Anyway, I want to spend a few words about another wave I caught yesterday.
It was the biggest of my two hours session and I was sitting so far outside that I ended up being in a position that I could actually try it. I paddled like if there was no tomorrow and I caught it. I think it was close to double overhead, that's how it felt at least. I stood up and I raised my arms and started screaming (litterally) down the face of the rolling mountain. The surfers on the inside looked so small from up there!
I felt like Bruce Irons in the shore break at Waimea when he won the Eddie Aikau...
Unfortunately, the two photographers didn't catch it. But this morning, when I walked in the Hot Sails shop, first think Glenn says:"Giampaolo, I heard about your sick wave yesterday!"
...it's a small island.
Today there's not a single cloud, the trade winds are back, there's still waves on the south shore (and more are about to arrive) and you have no idea of the color of the ocean.
And I got a fine photo to post on my blog.
Damn, what a good life!