Once again, here's how wrong settings can give birth to an original shot.
I look like a praying mantis with some huge hair on the back... The ghost standupper on the background is quite interesting too...
Overall a photo that shows that dinamic surf action can happen also in knee high surf.
Here's another original (I mean that I didn't read or hear it, but it's my own) thought: ripping on small waves is harder than ripping on big waves. You just don't have any buffer for mistakes. You shift your weight a few inches off the right spot on a small wave, you lose it. A bigger wave will forgive a lot more. That's why I'm always amazed by those guys (most of them over 50) that do nose rideing and all kind of tricks on one foot waves at Launio. BIG respect!
PS. I have an old school 9.10 lined up to buy in September... I can't wait!