Nothing. This winter doesn't manage to be shitty even when it is forecasted to be...
Yesterday morning it was surfable and clean until the kona picked up strong.
Then it was the windsurfers' turn and looking at Jimmie Hepp's photos, it seems that they had a really good time at Lanes. In particular Morgan Noireaux, who's pictured hereafter.
And then, just to make everybody happy, the kona wind eased off and all of a sudden the surfing looked really good.
I had to go in for another session, and I was having an absolute blast (like 8 waves in 45 minutes and no mistakes) when I pulled off a mini Cadiz.
Went down head first on a steep one on the flats in front of the wave, felt the strong impact with the water on my neck (Alan's wave was twice as big as mine), got caught by the vortex and got slammed on the reef on the rebound.
A sore butt, but nothing too bad. Enough to make me realize how tired I was and decide to paddle back in.
Took some photos at sunset, let's start from this one of my friend Charlene.
Kai Lenny was going at a different speed than the other surfers. Seriously, the difference was quite noticeable.
Classic over the falls. That is a very shallow section and the tide was low, I wonder if he hit bottom too.
It wasn't crazy crowded (the drop of the wind caught everybody by surprise) and there were some empty gems.
Not this one though.
The weather map looks like a mechanism designed by an Italian engineer with a bunch of unnecessary wheels. I can count seven low pressures centers.
Local wind direction is WSW and the windsurfers should be happy again.
Even I might give it a try today, specially if in the first hours of the afternoon it will be a tad lighter like the HRW model on windguru seems to suggest.
The buoys went down, but there's definitely still waves out there. 3f 14s is the sub-swell that will generate the biggest waves. A solid head high size, I'd say. The beach report will confirm (or not) that later on. Sorry, I'm late today, because I'm really really tired and needed an extra hour of rest.
Total winter mode down south too. That fetch should be even better tomorrow.
Have fun in the sun everyone!
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