It's been hard, but a few days of rest paid back and I'm back in the water.
Check last Friday's surfing conditions at Hoo and try to imagine how I felt not being able to go surf...
47 more photos here.
Today, instead, I sailed with the Kona wind on a 9.9 longboard prototype at lowers on some waist to shoulder high waves and I had quite a lot of fun.
The Kona at lowers implies straight down the line, superfast rides. More than deep turns, in fact, we're talking quick pumping on the rail, a little up and down, but still on the face of the wave most of the time.
If you have a strapped board, the final section often offers the opportunity for an aerial, thanks to the offshore wind.
I didn't have footstraps, but I had a blast nonetheless.
Once I fell in the impact zone and the waves took the board to the inside. Never a big deal at Kanaha (especially with this size waves...). You just swim a little and you're back to your board. But I didn't swim.
After only three days of water abstinence, I was enjoying so much being tumbled by the waves in the white water that I didn't want to swim. It felt so good...
Once a friend (may well be Gianfranco) told me the following theory:
In the impact zone some of the oxygen contained in the water gets released in the air. And it's a particularly pure oxygen, because it has not been in contact with the air pollution yet.
I don't know about the oxygen, but for sure there's a lot of iodine (vital for good thyroid function) there.
Whatever it is, for sure it's healthy. And that's why I'm almost never sick in Maui.
Plenty injuries, but those are different...
I met a friend at the post office the other day.
"Hey Olaf, how come you're limping?"
"I wiped out and my foot got stuck in the footstrap"
"Sorry to hear that... I got hit by my surfboard and I bruised my rib... I guess if we really wanted to avoid injuries we should be stay of the water..."
"Yes, but we would get sick instead!"
Good point... next injury, I'll think about the fact that I haven't got a flu for six years...
More Kona today and tomorrow. Wednesday is going to be pretty damn big...
Tons of iodine... yu-hu!
PS. Check this out. WTF, that's the Italians I like! Shaping surfboards in Italy... why not!
I love the 8.5...