Yesterday I tried surfing. Forget it.
Today I tried stand up surfing. Paddling on one side is ok, but the other side hurts.
Caught a few waves at lowers (I tried the SOS big red 11.11 and I liked it much better than the blue 10.10) and then I had to give up.
Went back home to rest, but the wind sensor at the airport (and a gust at my house that came from a weird direction) told me that a light Kona wind had picked up.
"Wait", I said, "I still have to try longboard sailing..."
Went back to Kanaha and rigged a 5.0 (easier to uphaul than the 5.5). The waves were tiny (belly high on the big sets), but wavesailing on the longboard with the Kona is still one of the most fun things I can do... worth it and not too much pain.
Well, yesterday I did go to Ho'o to take photos. Here are some of an unknown surfer. He might be unkwown, but he's pretty damn good! Look at how he demolishes this wave in the sequence below.
And here he's on another wave. Roundhouse cut back.
Here are all the other 39 photos that I took. I like them all.
Last, but not least, here's a little video that I took Sunday at Kanaha.
Enjoy the view from my beach chair (grab a cold one to make the experience more realistic...).
If you can't see it on this page, try here.
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Tomorrow, more Kona and a swell on the rise (even though from a direction a bit too west for Kanaha).
Oh yeah, I should be resting...