Oh boy, am I tired... here's what happened since last update.
Thursday (Thanksgiving): light wind and beautiful head to logo and sometimes even mast high waves at Lowers. I got in the water early and caught a bunch of lefts backwinding on my 5.5 and floaty shortboard...
I absolutely love that, because I can surf frontside on my natural goofy stance. I'm now working on the technique of the bottom and top turns and on the first hits to the white water... so much fun!
Around 3pm the wind picked up a notch and it was possible to go down the line... at least for a couple of hits. I had so much fun that I stayed out for 4 hours in a row. I don't think I never did that. Not even when I was 20...
Definitely a five stars day for me. I just love light wind...
More photos from the photo shoot of a month ago (the sail in this case was a 4.7). Notice how my stupid fart-aerial on a insignificant wave ruined a nice sequence of Diony about to vertically hit a big one... Next time I better make sure to be always behind him...
Friday it was outer reefs kind of big. I was busy and didn't make it to the water till 3. Didn't have my longboard (it should have been the call), went out on the floaty shortboard again, but the waves at lowers were just closing out too much. Not enough wind (and time) to slog my way to the outer reef at uppers (where it was epic).
I went back in and looked for a good place where to surf. Didn't find it... what did I say about my local knowledge?
BTW, what did I also say about being the undisputed king of kanaha for another winter? Yeah right... Taka was out on a longboard and, even though it was probably his first time or so, he was already sailing it way better than me...
Aaah, feels good to be a kook!
And here I am again, throwing gigantic amount of spray off on a double foot high wave!
Saturday, more light wind and big waves. More backside rides on the lefts at lowers. I did check out uppers this time, but the outer reef wasn't breaking anymore.
Anyway, had a couple of waves on a board completely different from everything else out there... stay tuned for a report.
Here's Diony. Nice hit, nice shot, nice sail, nice colors, nice everything.
Just checked the modelled weather maps for the next week... more big, large and even giant swells on tap. I bloody love winter in Hawaii...
Wait a moment... what? It's already November 24th??? Oh my god, it's almost over!!! Aaaargh!!!!!
PS. Meanwhile, in Haleiwa (Oahu) the first contest of the Triple Crown was run in some seriously heavy surf. Roy Powers from Kauai won it.
Here's the waves of the final.
Here's plenty more videos.
PPS. Check this out. And this.