great June

Lil' update, just to point out that some of the swells we saw (in particular, last week's one) were just the angular spreading of bigger swells aimed to south and central america. As you can see on Surfline, they saw a record June over there too.

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It's been a while... what the hell have I been doing?

Surfing, surfing and surfing.
If this summer would end right now it would still be the best one of the last few years... and there's still plenty more south swells to come. It feels great after the grim (surfwise) winter we just had.

Take yesterday, for example, when a new Tasman swell hit. I timed it right and for a few hours, on the rise of one of the highest tides of the year, the spot I was surfing got pretty much epic. After that, I went for a lunch and nap to Launiupoko and took a few pics.


The following sequence is dedicated to those friends that I called after my first session:"hey get your ass down here, it's going off"...


Unfortunately, by the time they made to the south shore, the tide started to go out, a little onshore wind picked up, I don't know what else happened, but the conditions were not even remotely as good as these ones...


Oh well, it happens...


Palm trees section.




Bums section.




Birds section.






And a few more surfing ones... training for Makaha?


I like the palms in the background. Pools must have been really, really good...


Holy cow, look at that wave!


Different styles.


Today, thanks to the lack of trade winds and to the clouds on the south shore (both very unusual for the summer), it was glassy all day. A tad smaller, but still a lot of fun. Oh, I almost got knocked out by a beginner standupper out of control... I was shooting with the GoPro and it's on the clip, stay tuned!