sick day!

Unfortunately, not in the sense that I had a sick session (even though I heard Hookipa was pretty damn good in the afternoon), but in the sense that I really was sick today!

I choose to spend the whole day at home (not my favorite thing in life), hoping that tomorrow I'll be fine.

Why, what's happening tomorrow?

Well, with the NW buoy reading 9.4 feet, 16 seconds from 335 degrees at 4pm, a guy like me just can't afford to be sick... 'cause it's gonna be sick!!!

Here's the surfline graph still on its way up.

Unfortunately, the wind is forecasted to still be pretty strong, but that is all going to change soon. Winter is about to take a wintery turn ('bout time!) and we'll see some big NW swells with no or light wind.

This is the weather map forecasted for Tuesday January 2nd. The close proximity of the fetch associated with that deep low will generate a swell that will fall in the extra-large category.

That means: Jaws, Waimea and all the outer reefs.

In the end, for me those days are very seldom the best ones ('cause I don't surf the above breaks, I guess). And even though it might be difficult to find a place where to surf, I just like to watch the big waves, to feel their energy and to hear their sound at night...

I'm about to move from one studio to another on the same property in Kuau (the new owners wanted to rearrange things differently) with a significant rent increase, but what's the price of that...

Allright, more ginseng tea.