Just a shortboard session for me yesterday, but a perfect one in the early morning glass: 10 waves, no wipeouts, no sets on the head (and there were plenty clean up ones). It was so good that I couldn't push myself to surf again at sunset, because of the light wind. As the photos below show, it still looked a lot better than usual, but I get spoiled quickly.
...you know he's going to end up with some crazy rotation.
Which variety of the hand in the water in the top turn do you like better? Front hand?
Or back hand? I like both.
4am significant buoy readings
4ft @ 12s from 224° (SW)
Lanai is the only buoy that stubbornly SEEMS to continue to register southerly energy. The fact that the other ones don't usually means that the energy in the water is minimal. That is in line with the fact that the jet stream went zonal for a few days (Oct 24-26) and didn't offer any fetches at all. The next day I'll be interested in a possible south shore action will be Nov 4th, a week after the first appearance of the Tasman Sea fetch we observed the last few days. All this said, those 4f 12s are in my opinion, the wrap of the NW swell and I'm gonna call the south shore close to flat today.
Here's the collage of the maps of Oct 24, 25 to 26. Nada de nada.
4.2ft @ 11s from 333° (NNW)
4.6ft @ 12s from 311° (NW)
3.1ft @ 13s from 313° (NW)
Yesterday morning the swell was pumping in glassy no wind conditions. This morning it will be much smaller (but still well overhead in the sets) and with some light easterlies, which, as we all know, is a lot better than light north-easterlies, so I'm going to report from the beach pretty early.
Since I just checked it, I'll take the opportunity to briefly explain how to read the wind meter on the right column of this blog. First, you need to know that it's 350 yards from the ocean, so it will most likely indicate less wind than on the waves. That also makes the indication of the direction not particularly reliable, as it is influenced by other buildings and trees. So, here's what it's good for:
2) gusts speed. This one is also useful.
4) Max speed. Completely disregard this information, as it could be pretty old.
North Pacific has a WNW fetch.
South Pacific's Tasman Sea fetch is now limited to a small area N of New Zealand.
Morning sky. The front has passed and the easterly trades are going to bring some very pleasant weather.