Big thanks to a new blog advertiser, the surfer art of John Severson.
Just a shortboard session for me yesterday, but a perfect one in the early morning glass: 10 waves, no wipeouts, no sets on the head (and there were plenty clean up ones). It was so good that I couldn't push myself to surf again at sunset, because of the light wind. As the photos below show, it still looked a lot better than usual, but I get spoiled quickly.
When Matt Meola lines up one like this...
...you know he's going to end up with some crazy rotation.
Which variety of the hand in the water in the top turn do you like better? Front hand?
Or back hand? I like both.
4am significant buoy readings
South shore
Lanai
4ft @ 12s from 224° (SW)
Lanai is the only buoy that stubbornly SEEMS to continue to register southerly energy. The fact that the other ones don't usually means that the energy in the water is minimal. That is in line with the fact that the jet stream went zonal for a few days (Oct 24-26) and didn't offer any fetches at all. The next day I'll be interested in a possible south shore action will be Nov 4th, a week after the first appearance of the Tasman Sea fetch we observed the last few days. All this said, those 4f 12s are in my opinion, the wrap of the NW swell and I'm gonna call the south shore close to flat today.
Here's the collage of the maps of Oct 24, 25 to 26. Nada de nada.
North shore
NW101
4.2ft @ 11s from 333° (NNW)
Hanalei
4.6ft @ 12s from 311° (NW)
Waimea
3.1ft @ 13s from 313° (NW)
2.4ft @ 11s from 319° (NW)
2.1ft @ 9s from 343° (NNW)
Pauwela
4.7ft @ 13s from 320° (NW)
Since I just checked it, I'll take the opportunity to briefly explain how to read the wind meter on the right column of this blog. First, you need to know that it's 350 yards from the ocean, so it will most likely indicate less wind than on the waves. That also makes the indication of the direction not particularly reliable, as it is influenced by other buildings and trees. So, here's what it's good for:
Wind map at noon. The Aloha Classic will probably resume today and they should try to finish the pro's, as the wave forecast afterwards is quite poor.
4.3ft @ 9s from 76° (ENE)
Yesterday morning the swell was pumping in glassy no wind conditions. This morning it will be much smaller (but still well overhead in the sets) and with some light easterlies, which, as we all know, is a lot better than light north-easterlies, so I'm going to report from the beach pretty early.
Yesterday morning the swell was pumping in glassy no wind conditions. This morning it will be much smaller (but still well overhead in the sets) and with some light easterlies, which, as we all know, is a lot better than light north-easterlies, so I'm going to report from the beach pretty early.
Since I just checked it, I'll take the opportunity to briefly explain how to read the wind meter on the right column of this blog. First, you need to know that it's 350 yards from the ocean, so it will most likely indicate less wind than on the waves. That also makes the indication of the direction not particularly reliable, as it is influenced by other buildings and trees. So, here's what it's good for:
1) current wind speed. Hey, knowing it's blowing 2.7 instead of 27 does help a bit, doesn't it?
2) gusts speed. This one is also useful.
2) gusts speed. This one is also useful.
3) as I said, the direction can be shifty. The resolution is poor too, as it only has 8 points (N, NE, E and so on). And even if for some directions the arrow is outside of the picture (like in this case), it's always written in the bottom left corner.
4) Max speed. Completely disregard this information, as it could be pretty old.
4) Max speed. Completely disregard this information, as it could be pretty old.
Wind map at noon. The Aloha Classic will probably resume today and they should try to finish the pro's, as the wave forecast afterwards is quite poor.
North Pacific has a WNW fetch.
South Pacific's Tasman Sea fetch is now limited to a small area N of New Zealand.
Morning sky. The front has passed and the easterly trades are going to bring some very pleasant weather.
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