Wednesday, October 18, 2006

Yet another NW swell

Another NW swell arrived today. Let's start with the sunset session at Ho'o.

Uff, that's big!

Lanes looked pretty good.

Good luck with that duck dive...

The sun came out of the clouds for a few minutes and it turned the white water into snow.

On the way back to Maliko.
A few teams were tow surfing at Noriega. They scored some epic, very long rights... but with the help of the jet ski... that's cheating! Cheat-surfing, that's how they should call it.

Nice light on this set.

Nice drop by Alan.

Lanes' line up in the sunset light.

I didn't see any girl out in the water. So, that's what you get...

In the morning, after 11 days of rest, I ventured out at Kanaha standing up on the 12.6. I had a very mellow session, without pushing too hard and it was allright. Still far away from full recovery, but... hey, back in da woda!
I had my little water proof camera with me and I took a few photos.
Even though it's not horizontal, I like this one because it shows the glassyness of the water, the cruise ship in the Kahului harbor, Wailuku and the Iao valley. Oh, and my friend Bill, of course.

I was sitting on the board when I took this one, and, as you can easily imagine, I got nicely worked by that friendly wave...

Here's Bill again. He was one of the first to surf G-Land in Indonesia quite a few years ago. I must have him tell me that story one of this days... I'm sure it will make an interesting post.
Anyway, I took this one while I was riding the same wave in front of him. Does he look like he's having fun or what?

I got out of the water without having taken any photos of girls, but Bella was on the beach getting ready to go out. I had my board on my head and I said:
"Bella, would you please hold the front of my board?"
"Sure", she said, "why?"
"'Cause I need my hands free to take a photo of you!"
She smiled.

Allright, time to go to sleep. Goodnight.


Anonymous said...

Some decent size in the swell GP, keep up the good work.


meesh said...

hey I was out a ho'okipa - but in disguise with my shorts!! (and at middles, too chicken for the point). I decided after talking to you to go anyway as the drive and paddle to kanaha seemed more effort than getting pounded at ho'okipa. Anyway, I had a blast. Best session todate this winter. Ulli snapped his board like a toothpick!!
see you on da woda!!

cammar said...

You guys are hard core!
Sorry for Ulli's board. Not surprised, though, seen the size of those waves...
I expect to see a photo of the half board on your blog soon.