Another NW swell arrived today. Let's start with the sunset session at Ho'o.
Uff, that's big!
Lanes looked pretty good.
Good luck with that duck dive...
The sun came out of the clouds for a few minutes and it turned the white water into snow.
On the way back to Maliko.
A few teams were tow surfing at Noriega. They scored some epic, very long rights... but with the help of the jet ski... that's cheating! Cheat-surfing, that's how they should call it.
Nice light on this set.
Nice drop by Alan.
Lanes' line up in the sunset light.
I didn't see any girl out in the water. So, that's what you get...
In the morning, after 11 days of rest, I ventured out at Kanaha standing up on the 12.6. I had a very mellow session, without pushing too hard and it was allright. Still far away from full recovery, but... hey, back in da woda!
I had my little water proof camera with me and I took a few photos.
Even though it's not horizontal, I like this one because it shows the glassyness of the water, the cruise ship in the Kahului harbor, Wailuku and the Iao valley. Oh, and my friend Bill, of course.
I was sitting on the board when I took this one, and, as you can easily imagine, I got nicely worked by that friendly wave...
Here's Bill again. He was one of the first to surf G-Land in Indonesia quite a few years ago. I must have him tell me that story one of this days... I'm sure it will make an interesting post.
Anyway, I took this one while I was riding the same wave in front of him. Does he look like he's having fun or what?
I got out of the water without having taken any photos of girls, but Bella was on the beach getting ready to go out. I had my board on my head and I said:
"Bella, would you please hold the front of my board?"
"Sure", she said, "why?"
"'Cause I need my hands free to take a photo of you!"
Allright, time to go to sleep. Goodnight.