During yesterdays' surf sesh at Ho'o, I got hit by my board on the back. Bruised a rib, nothing major...
Here's two ways to look at this:
1) Goddamit, there's some nice glassy waves today and I can't go surf, because it hurts. Fuck here, fuck there, etc, etc...
2) Thank God I only bruised a rib and I have to stay only a few days out of the water. If I had broken one instead, it would have meant months of recovery time...
It's the glass half empty or half full thing. EVERYTHING in life can be seen like that. I'm the world champion of the half full, so I'm enjoying this (hot) day of rest and right after this post, I'll grab a beer and go take photos at Ho'o.
Still a much better life than being an Afghan refugee, right?
Oh my god, don't let me get political and talk about all the innocent people the NATO and American armies are murdering over there... Not here, not on this blog.
I should start another blog on which to start open discussions about subjects of planetary interest like:
- global warming
- american imperialism
- how to pick up canadian girls
etc, etc..., but today I guess I'll stick to the beer at Ho'o plan...
Actually, a while ago I did start a new blog. The only post so far is about monogamy. Some people found it and put a lot of comments. Check it out and put your comment if you feel like.
March 1st was the last day of good wind (and it will still be for a while). It was my second day of test of my new Quatro board, and there was also a Hot Sails photoshoot.
I sneaked in, and even though I sucked as usual, the ability of photographer Kris Mills produced the following two decent shots.
All my other shots can be found here.
Hasta luego.
9 comments:
congrats GP!!!
you look like a pro on your new quatro board!!!
Hey did you see the pics from the PWA at Cabo Verde? That wave looks insane....and closer to Italy...
Cheers!!!
Marcos
Hi GP,
injured, new board and NO WIND - could be worse, look at the bright side. Nice shots by the way, that board is really magic for you!
Get well soon!
Pascal
Sorry to hear you're busted up, the pictures look great though.
I know the feeling, the first two entries in my blog back in November (http://www.ponohouse.com/ponoblog/?p=80) were about being injured. And the injury I was talking about then is still bothering me a little--I'm going to the doc on friday to have my left arm looked at.
This no wind thing is weird. I did long upwind paddles yesterday and today. I made it all the way to Baldwin today, starting from lower Kanaha. then got a little wind and cruised back way on the outside, out past all the outer reefs. Man it's a lonely ocean out there when you're on a little board. Saw the biggest sea turtle I've ever seen--size of a Buick!
Get better, and keep those pictures coming. Ho'okipa was beautiful this evening--glassy and about a thousand surfers out.
Hey GP...I understand about being injured and not be able to do your sport...
Hope you heal soon.
Nancy
Hey G.P. again good luck with your injury hope you will feel better soon. Lets not make it a habbit!
Pics look cool, did you get any good ones yourself at Hoo?
gotta pay to play my friend. like you say be happy it's minor. I am always greatful when it's just minor. Everytime I'm hurt I go back to the 8 months I sat out with my ankle or knee etc etc, and it makes 2 weeks a joke.
Nice pictures. Especially the ariel dump off the lip, good to see you are trying the move;-) Even if it's a fluke, the pic is still good and that's what counts baby! frame that MF!!
Marcos, never been there, but that wave really looks insane... the only problem is that, as you say... it's closer to Italy! :-)
Pascal, actually if there was wind I think I could sail (maybe with a seat harness). Plus, I like surfing just as much as wavesailing.
But it's all good...
Bill, that reminded of one of the very first time I just cruised on my 12.6 back 3 years ago. I had a lesson at Kanaha that was canceled for the complete absence of wind (which might be unusual for Maui, but I wouldn't call it strange... considering we're still in winter time). No waves either (now, that's strange!), so I just started to paddle towards Sprecks and I kept SUS (Stand Up Snorkeling) till I got to Paia beach. There I dropped the board on the beach (one good thing about a 12.6 is that is not likely to be stolen...) and I went to buy a bottle of water to the Paia General Store (remember that?). I had no money, but the cashier knew me and gave me two bucks credit...
Then a breeze picked up (thank god) and the way back was a piece of cake.
Nancy, thanks for the sympathy.
Robin, not that day. I took some yesterday, though (surfing). I haven't looked at them yet. But I got some that Lano will appreciate...
Meesh, I saw you surfing on Tuesday morning (when I got hurt). Then I went to Haiku later in the day and I think I saw you running on the side of the road... was it you? Getting ready for the trip? Like if you're not fit enough already?!?!
Two words on how it happened. Same way as the bruised kidney accident of a few months ago: the section I was riding got too steep. This time I was pretty high and I tried to jump off the back of the wave, but when I extended my legs to jump, the rail just could hold anymore, the board went down the face and as a result I fell right in front of it.
After the first accident, I already tried this manouvre on a couple of lefts and it worked. But this time it was damn steep right at Green Trees and my hills just couldn't keep the rail in the water.
Oh well, at least I know what happened.
I hope next steep right I'll remember and jump off the board before that happens...
Hey GP, it's good to know that you're at least putting some thought into those "other" issues that have some significance to the future of the planet and the fates of and lives of millions of less fortunate people - more significance than "is longboard sailing the next big thing?" or "what makes stand-up paddling so attractive to all the fat out-of-shape people who are taking it up in droves (like pono bill)." Pretty soon we'll all be saying that a stand-up paddle board is like a moped is like a fat significant other. Fun to ride around on, but you wouldn't want your bruddahs and sistahs to see you doing it. Unless you're Laird Hamilton at Peahi.
But I digress. You have an audience here on this blog. Exercise some responsibility, and use your popularity to spread the word on the issues that matter.
Or, looking at it differently, your audience comes to you for the vicarious pleasure of your life of surfing and windsurfing in Maui. It's an escape from their other worries - and from other worries like environmental degradation, social injustice, and so on, for which there is therefore no room here. The golden rule of popularity is "give the people what they paid for with their hard-earned money." Remember when Bob Dylan went electric? The audience rewarded him with boos and jeers. Of course your blog is free, and you're not Bob Dylan. But perhaps you get the point?
There you go. Half empty, or half full?
Aloha nani loa,
Yours truly.
Anonymous, I should definetely put more than some thoughts into that... but you know... waves got higher priorities.
Let's see what I can come up with...
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