It has been a week of great surfing in Maui. Many, many waves have been ridden.
I've caught a few myself. The most remarkable session was a standup one I had on a north shore reef with one and half to double overhead waves.
Here's what I wrote to a friend still flying high on the wings of the stoke:
I was totally alone and the big sets were rolling in covering the horizon. So much water moving. Somehow I managed to handle that and catch six memorable waves. I had goose bumps at every drop. Partly for the fear, partly for the beauty of the act I was doing. I was able to ride those giant rolling water hills on a surfboard. Man, that's the coolest thing in the world!
Six drops. Six big adrenaline rushes...
And here's a few photos I took after that session.
It was big enough for these guys to tow-surf.
This one is blurred because I was too lazy to get out of the car and took it through the windscreen of my car... A sizey one at Hookipa.
This, instead, is a little video that I took the day after. It may result rather boring, but the soundtrack is quite intense. Let's see if it helps you guys to get into the bliss of a mellow, lonely session in knee to belly high waves...
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If you can't see it here, try here.
Today I just had another very fun longboard sailing session with a light side-onshore wind at Kanaha. Waves were kind of messy, but I caught a couple of bombs that did the bowl... I love the bowl...
This week should offer some more epic conditions for surfing. The wind is supposed to die and the surf should be pretty consistent with a peak on Friday when an advisory level NNW one should hit.
Yu and hu.