Monday, April 02, 2007

six drops

Howzit everybody.

It has been a week of great surfing in Maui. Many, many waves have been ridden.
I've caught a few myself. The most remarkable session was a standup one I had on a north shore reef with one and half to double overhead waves.
Here's what I wrote to a friend still flying high on the wings of the stoke:

I was totally alone and the big sets were rolling in covering the horizon. So much water moving. Somehow I managed to handle that and catch six memorable waves. I had goose bumps at every drop. Partly for the fear, partly for the beauty of the act I was doing. I was able to ride those giant rolling water hills on a surfboard. Man, that's the coolest thing in the world!
Six drops. Six big adrenaline rushes...

And here's a few photos I took after that session.

The lineup.

It was big enough for these guys to tow-surf.

This one is blurred because I was too lazy to get out of the car and took it through the windscreen of my car... A sizey one at Hookipa.

This, instead, is a little video that I took the day after. It may result rather boring, but the soundtrack is quite intense. Let's see if it helps you guys to get into the bliss of a mellow, lonely session in knee to belly high waves...

Photo Sharing - Upload Video - Video Sharing - Share Photos

If you can't see it here, try here.

Today I just had another very fun longboard sailing session with a light side-onshore wind at Kanaha. Waves were kind of messy, but I caught a couple of bombs that did the bowl... I love the bowl...

This week should offer some more epic conditions for surfing. The wind is supposed to die and the surf should be pretty consistent with a peak on Friday when an advisory level NNW one should hit.

Yu and hu.


Anonymous said...

After watching that session of you sailing I feel very relaxed now. I am also inspired to take our bigger board to Beachport in the South East of South Australia so we can muck around in the shorey in the bay, bring on 4 days of Easter Holidays!

PS: I farken love that Superfreak!


cammar said...

That's exactly what I wanted to show (other than the song): if the wind is light, with a longboard it's alwyas possible to have some fun.

Today, while waiting for sets, I was fooling around trying the helicopter tack (I'm a complete kook at that). I got wet, it was sunny, I caught a few waves and got out of the water extremely relaxed and satisfied.

The Superfreaks rock.

Happy holidays.

Robin said...

Superfreaks rock indeed!

Nice vid G.P. as said before can't wait till the longboard gets here (The B.Blue got cancelled so ordered the Starboard 12'2" instead, didn't you sail that one?).

cammar said...


I sailed a board with the same shape of it, but it was made locally and it was hollow. I expect the *board to be slightly heavier and hence stronger. It may have a different flex too...
Shapewise, the best longboard I sailed so far (didn't sail that many...).
I'm curious to see if the fin it will come with will be the same one we tested too... that fin was just magic...

Your big blue got canceled, uh? Sean must not be able to keep the production up with the huge demand... well, I guess that's at the same time a good and bad thing for him...
Or is there another reason maybe?

klaus said...

what a song!!

Robin said...


I'll keep you posted on the Starboard and fin (as soon as it gets here). As for the big blue. I think it was a numbers/cost/package/time thing, not too sure really. Ah well there are worse things in the world then missing out on a board. Like staring up your (or Ulli's) arse on Sharons blog......

Easter coming up, forcasted wind: zilch, forecasted swell pretty good and sunny. Will prolly get out the 9'2" and have some fun.

Greets from the Netherlands