Monday, June 01, 2015

6 1 15 morning call

I might sound repetitive, but when the message is so positive, I don't think you guys mind repetitive: yet another great day of surfing yesterday on the south shore.

I surfed Breakwall in the early morning and there were DOH sets that looked like indo. In particular, the reef in front of the beach looked like Impossibles in Bali, and just like that properly named spot, among the perfectly but too fastly peeling waves, once in a while there was one that looked possible.

Photo of Breakwall later in the day is from Jimmie Hepp. Does it look like Breakwall???

And how's this impersonation of the Bukit by Olowalu point?

I didn't take too many shots, this is another break in the Lahaina area.

Makena side was small in the morning, but it got pumping action later in the day and I scored over there too.

3.4ft @ 6s from 54° (ENE)
2.7ft @ 8s from 74° (ENE)
0.8ft @ 12s from 342° (NNW)

3.4ft @ 18s from 179° (S)           
2.4ft @ 15s from 186° (S)
6.4ft @ 17s from 186° (S)

5.2ft @ 17s from 188° (S)
Swell went clearly up a notch as forecasted. Gonna be difficult to find a spot that doesn't close out if you go lahaina side. One thing I can recommend is to go early, since 10am is the last time of the day in which Maui County 2km leaves that area in blue (map below). After that, some kind of onshore wind should pick up.
On the other hand, there's a minus tide at 8.20 in Lahaina, so unless you hit it before that, it's gonna be tough to find a good spot no matter what. Be creative, is my advice.

The reason the swell is picking today is that 7 days ago the strong fetch that generated it moved completely over New Zealand and unleashed its energy without obstructions. The pressure went down to 930 and that's a hell of a low.
Below is the wind map of that day that shows the fetch that I'm talking about.

The wind map of today is not as exciting unfortunately, but not depressing either.
A tiny almost insignificant fetch in the NW corner, but more importantly a new born fetch in the Tasman Sea. Good season for Fiji, that's for sure.We'll get a bit of a SW swell in a week, but hopefully the fetch is still gonna be strong once it crosses over to the east of NZ.


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