Manaloha rent-a-car: same friendly faces a new fleet and the best deals in Maui.
Been in love with the south shore lately.
I think I drove there every day for the last three weeks with one exception: a day that there were waves at Hookipa (and I regretted it).
There's something about the water quality, the light, the water temperature, the sometimes complete lack of wind, the shape of the waves, the fact that they travelled 3 more days than the NW swell, and a bunch of other things that I can't even rationalize now, that made me really fall in love with it, this brief taste of summer I was lucky enough to experience.
The big swell has been nothing short than amazing with days in which breaks like Breakwall should have rather been called Cloudbreakwall.
But the days I remember with the most joy are the ones in which there was not a big swell in the forecast and it was still magic. And there were a lot of them.
I went yesterday too and I took some photos between sessions.
This one is actually from at least a week ago at Olowalu.
These ones are from yesterday and this is where I had my first session. This guy was ripping on his Takayama In The Pink 9.3.
We have a few in the rentals at Hi-Tech, so rent one if you want to try it. Lots of customers stoked on them.
The sticker shows that he's a Hi-Tech team rider, so he gets a second shot.
Hi-Tech gets a big thank you for letting me take so much time off and have the life style that I love.
And I just remembered seeing some nice shots on facebook of the Hi-Tech organized keiki contest at Launiupoko last Saturday, so I'm gonna squeeze one in here.
The girl's focus is what surfing is about for me. Nothing else matters in that moment. None of the society induced bullshit is bothering our experience. 100% of the brain is focused on what to do with the body to achieve whatever it feels right to do.
I can't think of anything else (other maybe than some drugs I never tried and probably never will) that does the same. Not even sex.
Thanks Cuda Shots for the photo. He's got a whole album on his facebook page.
Watching the WSL dawn patrol show on demand on my phone while checking the waves after my first session and taking a photo of it felt pretty cool. Got to love some of the society induced bullshit too sometimes!
And this was, without any doubt, the wave of the morning. That's probably three feet in the Hawaiian scale. I call that solid head high. The guy doesn't care what we might call it. He's surfing it.
Ahhh!!! With the arms up in the air!
Another turn with possess (or whatever Pots calls it) for good measure. 10 from the Italian judge. Easy.
Ripping a roundhouse cutty on a Hawaiian one footer. That's fun you guys. No need six feet every time. Just need the right board. And the right attitude.
To wrap yesterday (and the last three weeks) up, I'm just gonna mention that the last wave of my second session was magic. Perfect, steep waist high runner with the reef clearly visible the whole way through the wall. A dream.
Thank you Maui for having delivered a magic stretch of surfing. I leave tomorrow for an exciting trip that will take me first to briefly visit my family in Italy and then for two months in Indonesia.
Got four boards and a girl over there. Life is good. Very good.
Nonetheless, I packed everything tonight because tomorrow I got a tight schedule and I wonna surf in the morning. No need to say where.
And with that, let's move right into this morning's call.
Better do a good one, since it's the last one in a while (they will resume on August 22).
Gonna keep posting though. Keep checking the blog if you may.
Buoys
NW
3.9ft @ 8s from 45° (NE)
2.5ft @ 10s from 89° (E)
1.7ft @ 15s from 148° (SE)
1.3ft @ 13s from 157° (SSE)
Waimea
3.4ft @ 8s from 347° (NNW)
1.4ft @ 5s from 23° (NNE)
0.8ft @ 16s from 258° (WSW)
Pauwela
3.6ft @ 9s from 63° (ENE)
3.5ft @ 7s from 76° (ENE)
Barbers
2.5ft @ 8s from 308° (WNW)
2.2ft @ 15s from 209° (SSW)
Not much on the north shore and a beautiful 22f 15s reading at Barbers. The early packing plan is working.
Windguru page not loading this morning, this is the noon MC2km map, but it's not updated to today.
I do remember trades being forecasted for today.
Windguru page not loading this morning, this is the noon MC2km map, but it's not updated to today.
I do remember trades being forecasted for today.
Nothing for the north shore in the wind map, but a nice fetch in the Tasman Sea to get the competition going in Fiji.
No comments:
Post a Comment