Foiling on waves is a completely different thing instead, as it requires much less steepness and can be fun also if the conditions aren't clean. That's why I chose it to do later in the morning, knowing that the wind would at one point get on it. This is Michelle having a blast an a slopy non breaking wave.
And this is a clip that summarizes what I just wrote. Barely a wave behind me.
6am significant buoy readings
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 0.6 14s.
3.9ft @ 14s from 327° (NW)
4.2ft @ 11s from 328° (NW)
2.2ft @ 16s from 319° (NW)
7.0ft @ 9s from 59° (ENE)
4.3ft @ 11s from 335° (NNW)
1.0ft @ 18s from 329° (NW)
Another new low long period NW swell is on the rise, but as the beach report that today I did before this call shows, there's still plenty energy from yesterday's one. Below is the graph of Pauwela that shows the three swells reported. Something you would not know, if you checked the NOAA page instead. Notice the Christmas tree spike in the afternoon yesterday, due to the strong wind associated with the front that hit the north shore.
Wind map at noon.
North Pacific shows a WNW fetch, a weak NW one and the E one. In black I circled the area of strong easterly winds that will engulf us starting Thursday.
South Pacific shows a very remote southerly fetch.