Thursday, February 08, 2018

Thursday 2 8 18 morning call

Shortboard and longboard sessions for me yesterday. The morning one was super fun with very clean conditions. I scored it a 7 from the cliff because the bigger sets were inconsistent, but when they came they were more like a 9. IMO, Hookipa likess a 12s period much more than 16-20, as the sub-peaks work a lot more like a-frames.

Here's Alex scoring an excellent wave.

Kai Lenny paddled out on his Jaws gun and caught a few runners.

This is Russ who scored the best wave of the afternoon session. "It's occasionally chest high and it's offshore" I told him to convince him. It was actually not as good as it looks in this photo, but we had fun.

5am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 0.8 10s.

North shore
8.6ft @ 8s from 349° (NNW)

2.4ft @ 11s from 309° (WNW)
2.3ft @ 5s from 335° (NNW)
2.1ft @ 7s from 9° (N)
1.7ft @ 9s from 332° (NNW)

5.4ft @ 9s from 74° (ENE)

Pat Caldwell says:"Mid Wednesday on northern shores has breakers from 300-360 degrees at levels well below the active season, Sep-May, average. Low conditions are expected to continue on Thursday as N chop takes over.
The next event due Friday is expected to have overlapping longer period swell from a remote source and shorter period swell from within 1000 nm. This would make for more less organized breakers."

NW buoy already feeling the short period northerly energy because it's closer to the head of the fetch (see fetches map below). Waimea is still feeling 2.4f 11s from the old long lasting WNW swell, while Pauwela is down to only easterly windswell.

Below is the Surfline forecast for the next three days. The two red arrows show the short and long period components of the swell that will hit tomorrow. That'll make the breaking pattern confused, but what's even worse is the wind that will be onshore for next few days. Can't complain, between the big E and WNW swells, we had a long stretch of very clean surf for at least the last 10-14 days. Hope you guys enjoyed it.

Wind map at noon shows the onshore wind.

North Pacific shows:
- a new NW fetch that will be responsible for another NW swell on Monday
- a close by N fetch that will add the short period energy to tomorrow's NW swell (generated by the fetch I pointed out yesterday)
- an easterly fetch that will keep moderate period energy up from that direction

Nothing in the South Pacific.

Morning sky. I drew a red line to show the advancing northerly onshore. Hopefully the wind won't be too strong in the early morning hours, be I'm afraid there will be chop from it anyway.

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