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Double shortboard session for me yesterday.
That's how the day started in Jimmie Hepp's neighborhood.
That's how it started in mine.
From 7 to 8am Hookipa was incredibly clean. Then a little tradish breeze picked up and spoiled it. These couple of photos were taken after my session and if the waves look clean to you, you should have seen them a bit earlier. I gave it a 8.5 from the beach, but I immediately realized I underscored it when I saw the first waves reeling off The Point while paddling out in the channel. Some of them where flawless 10's with not a drop of water out of place.
Second session was at this spot. Smallish, but fun.
Hookipa at sunset showed some teeth.
3am significant buoy readings
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for nothing.
11.2ft @ 10s from 271° (W)
5.4ft @ 14s from 310° (WNW)
3.9ft @ 13s from 310° (WNW)
4.2ft @ 9s from 63° (ENE)
4.1ft @ 14s from 327° (NW)
2.7ft @ 12s from 327° (NW)
NW buoy doesn't help at all today, since it's being slammed by the winds at the end of the fetch (see fetches map below) and it's recording some westerly medium period energy that will never make it here. We got to live with what's left over from yesterday's swell (4f 14s is a very fun size) and the incredibly resilient easterly swell. Both will be trending down all day.
Wind map at noon shows light trades. It should be ideal (light offshore) again in the early morning instead.
Once in a while I got to post the traditional weather map. The whole North Pacific is taken up by a massive gyre of low pressure.
That's the easier to look at version of it, that shows the strong and relatively close fetch that is generating the weekend's extra large swell.
Little fetch in the South Pacific.
Morning sky suggests some possible rain.