Monday, June 29, 2020

Monday 6 29 20 morning call

Gorgeous day of surfing on the south shore yesterday, here's some photos I took after my session and before going to work. They're labeled with the degree of difficulty of "spot guessing".

Very difficult

Moderately difficult.

Written all over.

Virtually impossible to guess where I surfed instead, seen the lack of reference points, but you can tell it's not Launiupoko. Notice once again how much the board flexes: in the first shot, I have very little pressure on the deck (the steep drop felt pretty weightless in fact, and you can see my toes off the deck) and you can see the logo. In the second one, I made it to the bottom and I'm applying pressure with my feet (toes pressing on the deck) and the logo disappeared.

That might be part of the reason why my 6.8 Bushman sets the rail so beautifully in the bottom turn and then springs out of it like if on a train track. Very happy about my choice of using a step-up for this place. The drops were intense. So intense that I only caught three big waves and that was enough. I did get caught on inside after impatiently going for a small one tough, and duck diving in extremely shallow water wasn't fun. I couldn't push the board down too much, the white water would always roll me around and even though I was holding my board the whole time, I always felt the reef dangerously close. All good, but next time I'm gonna use a 2mm long sleeve top there, just in case.

This is how Maalaea looked on the webcam later on.

5am significant buoy readings and discussion.
South shore
3.3ft @ 17s from 180° (S)            

3.4ft @ 17s from 187° (S)            

The second long period swell that Pat Caldwell announced never really was that separate from the first one. What counts is that the swell is still pumping at 3.4ft 17s, and it's going to be another fantastic day on the south shore. Check the Lahaina webcam if interested, for size, conditions and consistency.

North shore
5ft @ 8s from 54° (ENE)            

3.9ft @ 8s from 49° (NE)
The windswell is coming from a NE direction today and that should give Hookipa and the eastern exposures some small waves.

Wind map at noon
(the other ones can be found at link n.-2 of GP's meteo websites list in the right column).

Fetches map (circles legend: red: direct aim, blue: angular spreading, black: blocked, yellow: apparent direct aim, but out of the great circle ray map, so not 100% sure).
North Pacific (about 4 days travel time from the NW corner of the North Pacific):

South Pacific (about 7 days travel time from east/west of New Zealand):

Morning sky.

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