Saturday, April 15, 2006


I spent the whole day surfing one of my favorite spots on the south shore. I'm not going to name it, but I will add that is one of Gerry Lopez favorite spots too.
Excuse me.

It looks great, but it was so good only for one hour or so. And I was resting on the beach after my first session with the tide too low, so I could take photos. After watching at all these great rides, I decided to go out again, but at that point the tide was too high. What did I learn? That the best tide for that spot is halfway between low and high. For that swell size and direction, of course. It's a bit tricky to be able to predict good surfing conditions, but I love the challenge of it. It's like part of the game.

I busted my fin box on the reef. What did I learn? I better use the channel to get in instead of cutting thru the reef, even if the tide is halfway. What's good about it? It's going to be my first fin box replacement job. I will learn something new.
With an attitude like this, I'll be always happy.

I was back in Kuau at 5.50. I checked the waves from the car at Hookipa and I had no hesitations to decide to go sail. Fifteen minutes later I was in the water. Great session, two of us. A nice guy from New Zealand, who was ripping. The emotions we shared out there were so intense that I almost wanted to hug him on the beach. I didn't, but we talked about board shapes for ten minutes almost in the dark and under the rain.

Wow, I am in a posting frenzy! I hope you guys enjoy the photos. I enjoy taking them.

I couldn't come up with a good title for this one. Just watch and feel it.

5 comments:

J said...

Just so you know, totally enjoying the photos and the posts.

cammar said...

Thanks J.

'Aloha Pass', sorry no links to commercial sites on this blog... that's why I deleted your comment. You are welcome to leave one as anonymous (you can always sign).

cammar said...

Dear friend, I'm not even going to get into an explanation of what I meant to say, because I am overwhelmed by the sad consciousness of having hurt a friend's feeling.
I am extremely sorry about this and I apologize.
And I will delete the reference to you in the original post and your comment. I hope you can do the same in your heart and forgive me.

Michelle said...

Hey GP, It was all cleared up a Hi Tech, no worries. I misunderstood your post and when I re-read it , I was too quick to reply. I am sorry also.

But I thought we'd agreed to keep the post for your ratings boost ??!!

See you on the water ..... Mxx

cammar said...

Yes, it was cleared up already. But I hadn't read your comment yet. And when I read it I was pretty shocked! I know it was a misunderstanding, but I'm just so sorry that it happened. That's why I wanted to delete everything.
Plus in this way people will start wondering about what happened... Legends will be created soon, but only a small elite club will have read the original 'argument'.
It's like the ones who read the Celestine's prophecy.
Only few ones will know the truth...