Saturday, April 15, 2006
I spent the whole day surfing one of my favorite spots on the south shore. I'm not going to name it, but I will add that is one of Gerry Lopez favorite spots too.
It looks great, but it was so good only for one hour or so. And I was resting on the beach after my first session with the tide too low, so I could take photos. After watching at all these great rides, I decided to go out again, but at that point the tide was too high. What did I learn? That the best tide for that spot is halfway between low and high. For that swell size and direction, of course. It's a bit tricky to be able to predict good surfing conditions, but I love the challenge of it. It's like part of the game.
I busted my fin box on the reef. What did I learn? I better use the channel to get in instead of cutting thru the reef, even if the tide is halfway. What's good about it? It's going to be my first fin box replacement job. I will learn something new.
With an attitude like this, I'll be always happy.
I was back in Kuau at 5.50. I checked the waves from the car at Hookipa and I had no hesitations to decide to go sail. Fifteen minutes later I was in the water. Great session, two of us. A nice guy from New Zealand, who was ripping. The emotions we shared out there were so intense that I almost wanted to hug him on the beach. I didn't, but we talked about board shapes for ten minutes almost in the dark and under the rain.
Wow, I am in a posting frenzy! I hope you guys enjoy the photos. I enjoy taking them.
I couldn't come up with a good title for this one. Just watch and feel it.