Despite the fact that it was Monday and it wasn't a highly announced swell, there were quite some people at Honolua bay... but nothing compared to what it usually is.
I had two sessions. In the first I used an 8.1 with a central fin that was waaay too big. In the second, I managed to fix my smaller fin on the spot, but I got cold right away. In other words, I never really tuned in it. Actually, I never really tuned in Honolua bay in general. It must be because it's a right and I suck back side...
Fortunately, in the morning I had a fun longboard sailing sesh at Kanaha. That's something I'm better at.
Practice... I guess that's it. In need to surf more surf backside. "Tomorrow I'll go to the Point at Hookipa..." I thought driving home.
So I did. 45 minutes with the 7.0, kind of messy. Guess how many waves I caught? None. Zero. Nada. After 4 years surfing... that's humbling.
Enjoy the photos of Honolua below.
Hand in the water and weight on the back foot to slow down the board, hoping for that barrel to happen...
Too bad I just said that I suck backside, otherwise I coud claim that this is me...
Da kine, brah!
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