In the morning there was no wind at all. The waves at Kanaha looked like they were closing out a little too often. Alex told me later that he actually got some of the best waves of his life, but he's a damn good surfer and he's regular and that helped him connecting all the sections of the beautiful right. I don't think I would have been able to do the same. Plus, I was still a bit tired from yesterday so I wisely chose a more mellow session at the harbor (with the shortboard, though).
The waves were knee to shoulder high, these last ones having the right push to be enjoyed with a 7.0.
Me and Karl were the only ones on the peak at the buoy. A little chat, a little wave, another little chat, another little wave... good time.
Later the wind picked up and I went out again at Kanaha on the longboard with the sail. The swell was dropping, but the waves were still pretty damn fun. The I saw canadian Jeff ripping a couple at the outer reef of uppers and I immediately sailed over there. Again, the swell was dropping and not many sets were breaking all the way out there. You had to wait 10-15 minutes. But the last one I caught was a beauty. Jeff told me later on the beach that I was at the half of the wave and the mast was in line with the lip. It didn't really feel that big, but if he says so...
I said:"but I couldn't really do any turn... I could only go down the line..."
"It doesn't matter, he said."
Actually, he was quite right. I was on a potentially double mast high wave, on a 12.6 and I wanted to do turns?!? My confidence must have improved a lot lately...
Photos from both sessions here.
By the way, I also found yesterday's ones.
Easy quiz. Check this little video. Let's see who's the first one that spots what there is to spot and posts a comment... (can't see it? Try here)
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After two hours surfing and two hours sailing, around 5pm I was debating if to go out again standing up on the 12.6...
The wind, in fact, had died and the conditions were kind of epic out there. 5 people out (Michelle, clearly, amongst them).
Fortunately, Monica called. She had locked her keys in her van and needed a ride home to get the spare. Thank god, I had an excuse not to go out... my body would have not liked it.
Instead, I was rewarded with a spectacular pasta with shrimps that she cooked for me. I hope she'll lock the keys in her car more often...
Check this out.
Tasty, uh? ... specially that slice of belly!
This one, instead, is my latest addiction. Two pistachios sitting on a pillow of Nutella...
I didn't even check the buoys tonight... I almost hope that it's gonna suck...
I need a massage!