Thanks to the amazing HD GoPro camera, here you get a little of the magic surf session I had in the morning up the coast. Check the sky.
In 2 and a half hours, I rode many beautiful walls of water like this.
Two seconds later.
Framed by water. Sorry again about that snot, this time on my ear.
I look like Ben Stiller in "There's something about Mary"...
Is there a barrel to be had?...
...getting clipped by the lip. You guys think I could have squeezed in there?
Look at those glassy waves!
The intense paddling at the very last moment before catching a wave increases my face wrinkles by 500% and makes me look 100 years old.
Few seconds later, and I'm way more relaxed.
Lil 'toes up' top turn.
And another glassy wall.
Cross-stepping my way to the nose... light like a butterfly, graceful like a ballet dancer! A gay one, I'd say...
I wanted to do 'toes on the camera', but I thought that the result would have been a bit dark... so I put my foot to the side of it.
At one point I was sitting next to Francisco Porcella and we agreed that on the next wave I would have dropped in on him so that he would ride the wave behind me and be in the video clip.
Little we knew that the next wave was going to be the best of the day.
As soon as we saw it coming, he started to paddle super deep towards the double overhead peak. Right, but he was on a shortboard and he's just ever so slightly better than me... so I stayed where I was and dropped in on the shoulder.
Even though it was previously agreed, it was as bad as a drop-in can be: I completely ruined his wave.
"Shit! Let's not do this anymore, ok?", he said later understandably bummed.
"Yeah, it didn't quite work, did it... but hey, maybe I got a killer shot that will end up on the cover of Surfer magazine!", I tried to cheer him up.
Here's the snapshot of the only frame he was in...
Thanks Francisco, that was a great wave!!! :))))
After my awesome session, I took a few pics at Hookipa.
There's no caption for something like this.
This kid was ripping.
Just like this other one.
Being a famous windsurfer didn't help you: you've been DDS (DuckDiveShot)!
Being the girlfriend of a famous windsurfer didn't help you: you've been DDS!
Ian Walsh is in town.
Here he is demolishing a lip, while the lifeguards jet-ski is passing by, telling everyone to leave the water.
Why? Because they spotted a shark.
Now, thank god I was already done with my session, otherwise I would have been soooo pissed to be forced to leave the water with those beautiful waves!
Can someone tell me what is the difference between seeing a shark or not? They're out there no matter if you see them or not!
It's the same thing like saying:"you can't enter the highway, someone spotted a car".
Sharks and cars are exactly the same thing. They're out there when you're in the water or on the highway and they usually mind their business. Occasionally, very occasionally, they hit you. How occasionally? Good question.
Here's what I used to tell my windsurfing students that asked me questions about the sharks in the ocean.
"You scared by sharks? You know how many people are killed by sharks worldwide every year in average? Four. You know how many people are killed by car accidents worldwide every year? 1.3 millions. You're waaaaay more in danger when you enter your car than when you enter the ocean."
Guess what. It never really worked. The students were probably even more scared to be reminded that actually sharks occasionally do kill people than relieved to learn that such a thing has an extremely low probability to happen. What can I say, not everyone's left brain is stronger than the right...
Back to the water evacuation. It would make a lot more sense if the lifeguards would only warn the ocean users if they spot a shark. Inform them and let them the freedom to risk if they feel like. As long as they put the sign out and blow the siren a few times, the county can't be sued, can it? Of course it can, we're in America. Where if a surfer chooses to stay out after a warning and then he gets bitten, he wold probably sue the lifeguards because they only warned him instead of forcing him out of the water and very likely win the lawsuit!
This is the country were an old lady sued McDonalds (and won!!!!) because she burned herself with the coffee, since it was... hot!
Anyway, let's move on.
Must have been a shark.
Allright, enough photos. Let me leave you with that amazing sky again.
I can't stand the blogs that try to sell you stuff all the times, but this is only occasional, like a shark attack. I got no more room for boards and need to get rid of some.
The AHD Sea Lion is a unique SUP sailing board. Extremely fun in small mushy surf. Ideal for summer time.
I'm also selling a 2009 Quatro twin fin 81l. And I believe Glenn still has an AHD Seal to sell. My email is on the right.
The NW buoy went up to 15 feet, 17 seconds from 325. Tomorrow is going to be big... outer reef kind of big. 10pm, I hope I'll sleep good, because I got waves to catch tomorrow... 'night.