Today I did:
- surfing in the early morning
- wave sailing in the afternoon
- SUP surfing at sunset.
Even for my high standards, it was a really good day. I even worked a five hours shift!
Tomorrow instead, I'm off and I'm quite excited. The forecast calls for the biggest south swell since I'm Maui (10 years).
I'm at the point where 25 seconds buoy readings get me excited more than a date with a hot girl... should I worry? Nah, it's all good. It's all really good!
At the same time, the best surfer in the world pulled off his 67th ASP win (out of 44 finals) and managed to get back to the top of the world rankings, despite his decision to skip Jeffrey's bay, because Fiji was firing.
If I was forced to swap lives with someone else, Slater would be the lucky one... :)
This is the heat analyzer of the final: http://www.billabongpro.com/tahiti11/heat-analyzer-gb (the link thing doesn't work tonight).
Watch the waves and then click on Kelly's interview and let it go till the end. The final 5 minutes of it are just amazing. Bruce's Irons wave looks unreal. I can't even imagine what seeing that from his eyes must be. And the wipeout...
Alarm is set at 4 o'clock. I have ambitious plans tomorrow. Goodnight.