I surfed an oversized Lowers this morning on my SUP. Didn't really do much other than surviving.
A couple of times I found myself standing in front of a wall of 5 meters of water. Whoever knows me, know how I tend not to exaggerate wave sizes...
No bid deal diving under them, the problem would be if the leash snapped, but thanks to "the praying pencil" * , that didn't happen.
It didn't break, but it stretched three feet...
I immediately replaced it with a new one. Thank you old leash. Thank you for not leaving me with a gnarly swim in front of me...
After work, I did the right call in terms of where to go (I love when I do that) and sailed some slightly smaller waves with an extremely light wind.
Even though I did manage to put my board on the rails, more than the actual rides I just really enjoy the challenge when it's like that.
It sure wasn't easy out there, but thanks to the skills acquired in 11 years of practice here in Maui, I made it work. Stoked!
And after so much time in the ocean, what a great thing to be able to admire a majestic mountain on the way back home.
This island is gorgeous.
My second favorite surfer after Kelly is Pancho Sullivan. He's a rep for Rip Curl and visited the shop a couple of days ago. Had to take this one...
Here, learn how to do a layback snap with him.
Not sure what possessed me to buy my first George Foreman grill, but my life has got even better since I have it.
This is my third session and every time it got better. You can throw pretty much any vegetables on it and tonight also a piece of fish. Freaking delicious.
And with the the belly happily full of healthy stuff, all I can think right now is where to go surf tomorrow morning and put my board a bit more on the rail.
God, what a simple great life I have.
* "the praying pencil" is when you make your body like a pencil with the paddle in one hand trying to reduce as much as possible the resistance in the water and pray that the leash doesn't snap.
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